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Old 07-07-2011, 03:58 PM
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Power brakes in Model A

I have a 28 Ford coupe w/283 and a 4 speed. It currently has a mustang II front end w/ disc brakes and a Nova rear w/ drum brakes.

Who knows a fairly easy way to add a brake booster to it? There isn't very much room. The current braking quality leaves a little to be desired. What about a remote booster? I think Studebaker used to have something like that.

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Old 07-07-2011, 05:35 PM
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There just is so little room in a Model A chassis and even less with the '28-'29 body style for much of any add ons. Without knowing how your car is set up and with accessories, it's a tough call. I have a 7" booster on mine and it is tight in that area.

These folks sell one, tho are one of my least favorite vendors

Get us some photos too - it can be done - this is mine in my TCI 'A' chassis:

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Old 07-07-2011, 05:42 PM
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Power booster

I have a stock(boxed) Model A frame and the car is assembled so I can't get a decent picture of the setup. I currently have an early Vette master cylinder thru a proportioning valve and 10lb residual valve to the rear drums and thru a 2 lb residual valve to the front discs.

If I cannot come up with a good booster idea for the room I have I will go thru the brakes completely to see if I messed something up when I put it together.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:35 PM
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You might consider this, a booster, complete with pedal and master cylinder. That will fit inside under the dash, the booster and master cylinder are 90 degrees to the pedal.

http://www.performanceonline.com/UNI...ES-UNDER-DASH/
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred56
I have a stock(boxed) Model A frame and the car is assembled so I can't get a decent picture of the setup. I currently have an early Vette master cylinder thru a proportioning valve and 10lb residual valve to the rear drums and thru a 2 lb residual valve to the front discs.

If I cannot come up with a good booster idea for the room I have I will go thru the brakes completely to see if I messed something up when I put it together.

Thanks for your help.
Which MC do you have - the 1-1/8" power brake or the 1" manual version. The larger one will diminish your braking power without the booster. That is you will need a LOT more leg assist to achieve the same amount of line pressure for brake application, Wilwood have several though dearly priced when a new replacement 'Vette from Rock Auto Parts is in the $40 range. (click on continue shopping to get to the list)

Another thing to look at is the pedal ratio and related to bore diameter. The "normal" non-power assist ratio is ~6 to 1. Here's a fairly good article describing that ratio.

Dave W
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:06 PM
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Power boosted

Thamks for the all the help. This morning I got up early and went out to the garage to check out the brakes completely. What I found out was that the installation was good, the master cylinder is the right one(Disc/Drum) and the proportioning valve and the residual valves are in the right places.
Upon further checking I found that I had the Willwood proportioning valve adjusted wrong. I had it turned just about all the way clockwise instead of counterclockwise. After readjusting the proportioning valve I took it out for a drive and I found out that I now have good brakes that will really bring the car too a halt.
It goes to show you that if you use the KISS method(KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID) YOU ARE BETTER OFF. In other words make sure what you put on the car is working the way its suppose to before you start replacing parts.
Thanks again - Jerry
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:18 PM
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No truer words spoken, so many just replace parts without ever knowing the reason why. Nice troubleshooting I always RTP myself, read the poop.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred56
Upon further checking I found that I had the Willwood proportioning valve adjusted wrong. I had it turned just about all the way clockwise instead of counterclockwise. After readjusting the proportioning valve I took it out for a drive and I found out that I now have good brakes that will really bring the car too a halt.
Nearly full clockwise is nearly full rear braking. Rotating counterclockwise reduces rear braking. It works reverse of what you would think. Is that what you were trying to accomplish?

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/835-2608419.pdf

Andy
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