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Old 11-27-2012, 06:34 AM
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power seat retrofit

OK I am try to mach up my model A. I bought some nearly new leather seats from a late model Mercedes e class. I have a few problems. First off one of them is all the way forward and the other all the way back, causing my Mach up to be a night mare. Secondly, I need to build up a set of risers so that the seat does not interfere with the stick shift. Not a big problem. The big problem is the controls for the seats are on the door panels, which i have. The harness coming off of them is a ribbon style. The seats have two or three different wire groupings that have regular wire plum ends on them. I have no idea what wire is for what. How do i apply power to them to get the seats to move, and how do i figure out the ribbon on the switches? If I get them to move so that they are both in the same position should I just by some manual glides and call it a day? Power seats are nice but this looks complex.

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Old 11-27-2012, 07:04 AM
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I suppose some of the electronic wiz kids could make them work but myself the idea of dispensing with complexity and having manual seat guides makes a lot of sense..The power guides should be bolted to the seat so removing them and replacing with manual seat tracks should be a doable task..

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Old 11-27-2012, 07:30 AM
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I've always moved power seats that are out of the car with a car battery. I connect a wire to the plus side and the negative side, and move the seats by the hit or miss method of applying power and operating the seat switches. I'm sure it's not that easy with the newer car seats.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:11 PM
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Not familiar with Mercedes, but most seats have a separate plug that is the 12v. input, and then the other that does control. I suspect if you look at the door controls you'll see where a two wire plug is or was. Once you've determined where that is you can do as Dan said and temp power to it to get the seats moved to the position you like.
If you can't figure it out you can call a Mercedes dealer and talk to a line mechanic about where power is derived. As for controls, I'd definitely keep the electric controls, but I'd probably locate them in a custom built console and not in the doors of your rod.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:27 PM
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I wouldnt suggest putting any batteries near the wiring for these seats, the side impact air bags could go off if fitted. Theres a firing wire and a fault wire usually for air bags. Best thing to do if you aint electrically competent is get an auto electrician to have a look. The air bag wire on most uk spec cars is thick brown with a yellow plug. Please becarefull. Ade
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:35 AM
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Ok, Last night I took stumpy1972uk1's advise about the side airbags. I simply disconnected both of them. I then proceeded to isolate the wires for each of the four motors so that i could locate them on the plug which goes into the memory unit. I did notice that each motor has two large gauge wires , which are the positive and negative, and also two thin gauge wires which I imagine are some sort of switching mechanism. I managed to get each motor running by hooking them up at the plum end with a car battery. My problem is if I replug the plugs into the memory box the plugs that come out the front side have completely different colored wires. I noticed on the front side wires there is a very heavy gauge brown wire, red wire and black wire. Am I supposed to plug everything back together and hook up the battery directly to two of those three heavy gauge wires. If so which two. Then if i remove the switch from the door panel how do i determine which wire on the back of the switch will operate each motor. I imagine there is no direct power going into the switch, only the seat. Am i correct?
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNSHENOUDA View Post
OK I am try to mach up my model A. I bought some nearly new leather seats from a late model Mercedes e class. I have a few problems. First off one of them is all the way forward and the other all the way back, causing my Mach up to be a night mare. Secondly, I need to build up a set of risers so that the seat does not interfere with the stick shift. Not a big problem. The big problem is the controls for the seats are on the door panels, which i have. The harness coming off of them is a ribbon style. The seats have two or three different wire groupings that have regular wire plum ends on them. I have no idea what wire is for what. How do i apply power to them to get the seats to move, and how do i figure out the ribbon on the switches? If I get them to move so that they are both in the same position should I just by some manual glides and call it a day? Power seats are nice but this looks complex.



Just today I finished putting a set of 1997 Infiniti leather power buckets in my 1990 Chevy 1500 shortbed. Fortunately the passengers seat power connection went well, as others have said a battery works good to test the leads for the power (my wife has MS, hence the power leather buckets) While trying the power connections, I did set off the side airbag, it got my attention and cleaned my ear drums out. Before attempting the power for the driver's seat, I purposely set off the airbag. I don't know about other mfg or seats but I can tell you that on the infiniti seats, the two wires for setting off the airbags are the only wires that ARE NOT copper, they are steel and or silver in color and about 16 ga.

The power for the driver's seat was impossible (for me anyway) to get working so what I did was take the two heavier ga. wires coming out of each of the three motors and connect one of each wire from the three motors and connect as a group, that leaves one single and separate wire coming from each of the three motors. To get movement you connect one of your battery wires to the three wires twisted together as a group and then, depending which motor you want to run, connect your other battery wire to the single wire from the motor you want to run and vise versa to run the motor in the opposite direction. This works for me, since I'm the only one that will be driving the truck. After seat was installed, I jumpered and ran the motors to the adjustments I needed, then taped the wires off and put under the seat out of sight. Hope some of this helps?
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:03 PM
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I had similar problem putting 99 Lincoln 10 way power bucket seats in my 55 chevy. I was lucky enough to find a wiring diagram in a Lincoln manual on-line so I could sort out the wiring to the switches. I took the door switch panel apart and used the individual seat switches in a custom panel I made for the Console taken from the same donor car. For mounts I had to cut off the feet of the seats as they were for mounting on an irregular floor. I made brackets on the seat rails that bolted to some risers I made from flat stock and some 1x1 tubing. The risers then bolted to the stock seat mounts on the outside and I had to make mounts for the inside rails. My project was further complicated by the fact it is a two door car and the Lincoln seats were in a 4 door. I mounted the passenger set about 1" forward of the drivers to allow the seat to move forward and tilt to gain access into the back seat. The wiring was a pain until I was able to find a wiring diagram.
Good Luck,
Unk
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:47 PM
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hopefully the op has been able to get his electric seats working over the past 28 months
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:11 AM
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Glad to see this post ongoing, as I think the various mods people have described will help those who want to convert to a power seat that's not just a bolt in deal.
I put power leather buckets and folding bench from a 2000 Durango into my '69 Suburban a couple years ago. The wiring was the easy part with just a power and ground needed, but mounting was the real issue. The buckets had one horizontal and one vertical mount, so I had to weld onto the front mounting bracket to convert it to a horizontal mount. The rear bench was even tougher, as the back mounts were up on the "bed" deck of the Burb, and that left the front mounts up in the air about 5". Had to build a platform out of box tubing and thin plate to raise the mounting point up and then bolt the front mounts to that.
Once finished they came out great, and beyond looking better, they're much more comfortable! Having a folding and hinged rear bench really opens up the back when I need plenty of room to haul anything long and wide. Plus it looks nicer when the rear bench is folded down.
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