Great You are your own builder!! Thats a good thing cause you will understand this better as you have installed it. Ok I find he has never left enough room for castor on his kits cause he beleives that ford did it correct(actully i dont think he knows how to check it or cares,cause i have disproved his BS about GM pumps having to much pressure by using ford pumps with the same results) Now if you had known you could have set the ride heights on the rear and front ,put a castor gauge on the clip before it was welded and tipped it back a little(as long as the lower a-frames are level to the ground,nothing in hot rod 101 says the frame has to be srtaight front to rear) before you go cutting anything see how much castor you can get(do you have gauges?? circle track guys allways have a set you should be able to borrow) I have on some of his clips sloted the upper holes a little but most times have had to cut the upper hats off.I beleive he thinks 2-3 degress is all the castor you need cause that is what ford used. I have corrected a few by just putting a lot of castor in them(please dont go more than 4 degrees on a manual as it will be real hard to park,6-8 on a power rack) I think that would be my first try,but in the end everybody has been happier with the slower rack. You could go one other route BUT i caution anybody doing this if your not a weldor DONT TRY THIS(bird**** weldors you will KILL yourself) I have preheated the steering arms and added 1/2 5/8 of and inch to the steering arm by welding them(also correcting for akerman at the same time because its wrong on a big wheelbase car compared to a pinto)Stringing the arms to the wheelbase.After you have lengthened the arms you most likely will have to move the rack out the same amount to keep the tie rods on level(bumpsteer) Try the castor first see what you can do. If at all possable lower the rear of the car with some weight or stuff,it will give you a false sense of what castor can do for you(it tips the tops of the spindles back)and take it for a ride. Also dont take it to and alignment shop and let them align it for a stangII or pinto ,make sure you see they are getting the full 6-8 degrees(its a real pain in the a## to do on the alignment rack) A good clue that it was not done correctly if he charges you 50 bucks and it only takes 1/2 -1 hour forget it!!!. It takes much longer to get it right,cause when you change castor,you mess up the cambor and toe also.So if the guy gets it done and asks 100 bucks dont be pissed at him ,he worked for it.Most machines have a print out now just ask.
Good luck Hope i helped a little.(sorry i cant spell worth a damn)
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: Phat ]</p>