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Old 04-21-2003, 12:12 PM
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Post Power steering chatter in steering wheel

I just installed a new Fatman IFS w/ PS and when I road tested I notice a bit of pulsing or chatter in the steering wheel when I turn left or right. It is tied to a GM power steering pump. Any suggestions what might be causing it?

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Old 04-21-2003, 01:20 PM
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If you didn't do anything to the pump, it is probably putting out too much pressure for the MII gear. Most rod supply stores offer a pressure reducing valve that easily replaces the stock valve in the GM pump and tunes it for the MII. Less than $50.
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Old 04-21-2003, 02:23 PM
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37, if you are using a GM "teardrop" Saginaw pump, something might be wrong with the return side like a kinked line or something. I'm running one with a Heidt's regulator and it works just fine, wide open. There should also be an in-line screen to pick up any possible garbage floating around in your newly assembled system. Power racks don't like anything but really clean fluid.
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Old 04-22-2003, 08:53 AM
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Willys36, I think I agree with your assessment. There are no kinks in any of the lines, all the fluid is fresh and is the R&P and there is a screen filter in the line. Is the pressure reducing valve inside the pump or is it at the R&P? Is it necessary to remove one of the hoses to get to the valve?
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Old 04-23-2003, 08:00 PM
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37, since Willys didn't get back to you right away, I will.

The reducing valve is located wherever you'd like it to be. Installed right, It will have a high and low pressure line in, and hi-low lines coming out.

It can be dialed in to suite.

[ April 23, 2003: Message edited by: PrimeMover ]</p>
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:21 PM
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I've got the same problem, using GM Saginaw pump and Mustang II rack. I had no idea that the pressure needs are differnt.

2nd Question: Mine squels like a pig when first started up, It seems to be the power steering pump, when it warms (after 30 seconds or so) it quites down. The belt has been replaced and even tried belt dressing, no luck. Also get some squeeling noise under hard load while driving!

I was thinking it's pump replacement time,
Older unit was installed by previous owner around 5 years ago.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 04-24-2003, 07:11 PM
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There are two types of valve. The one Prime described is an add-on and works great. However, the one I was thinking of is a replacement for the stock one in the pump. It is easy to install. Just unscrew the fitting in the high pressure port in the pump and the valve falls out. Drop the new one in the hole and put it back together. Totally hidden and designed for the application.

See it here,

http://yearwood.safeshopper.com/309/cat309.htm?326
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Old 04-24-2003, 07:45 PM
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Nascar - there's an internal relief valve in the pump. It's located behind the big nut in the back of the pump. If it's working right, it'll relieve excessive pressure and fluid volume and let it return to sump. If it's not, it'll slug your pump and make your belt slip, no matter how tight it might be and by the way.. I think this is the puppy, Willys is talking about. Ther are probably several different spring tensions available for this relief valve.

[ April 24, 2003: Message edited by: PrimeMover ]</p>
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Old 05-15-2003, 09:14 AM
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I have researched the GM pump valve replacements in the various hot rod catalogs I have at home. The price seems high for such a simple part with spring and O ring. Some suggest replacing the spring with the stock spring but that seems odd to me because I don't believe the pump has ever been modified. So if I replace the spring I will be replacing it with the same thing and gained nothing for the $ spent. Is there a force measurement on the steering wheel or some other quantitative or qualitative method of determining if the pressure is too high?
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Old 05-15-2003, 05:46 PM
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37... if you are asking if there is a way to measure the pressure from that pump to determine if the pressure is too high, I would have to say most likely. You would need a pressure gauge to put in the line. You would also need to know what the specs are for that rack. I personally would go with what Willys said. As far as the spring is concerned, there are other ways to reduce the pressure than that spring, like reducing the flow thru restriction. A smaller valve will reduce the flow and therefore pressure.
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Old 05-19-2003, 03:59 AM
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Thanks adtkart and willys36 for the advice. I've decided to do the internal valve and spring replacement and see what happens. I don't have the patience to do the pressure testing step. I figure it is a simple enough task to just replace the parts. The chatter problem went away after I got the fluid level and belt tension up to specs. I'm planning to be at the Indy Goodguys event in mid June. Any of you going to be there?
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