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Old 06-26-2011, 03:07 PM
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Power Window Repair

I have specialty power window kit in my 36 ford....over the weekend at a show it rained quite a bit and when I activated my drivers side window it went down but would not roll back up with the power button...the passenger side works fine...from the drivers side, it will roll down the passenger side but not up...it will not activate the drivers window at all..its in the down position now...I can hear a click in the button but nothing happens...any suggestions?..a couple friends said let it dry out...its been a week with no change..thanks for any help..I'll call specialty windows next week too..thankyou...craig

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Old 06-26-2011, 05:03 PM
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specialty power windows

Don'r know where you got yours, but my came (or I picked there up in Forsyth Ga.)
I had a simulator problem in a 40 chevy. I changed the switches, but it didn't help. I don't remember which side was the problem side. I do remember it was a wiring connector problem.
I'd contact the owner and ask for Assisi. I do know I stopped at his shop, and he gave me the .35 tour. He didn't sell a kit for anything he had not install the kits in (doors) lol
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:01 PM
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The old trick to getting a stuck window moving is to hit the motor gently with something. Tapping on it with a small hammer, or what ever you can get in there. It will often get it started, sometimes for good. My brother tells me they used to do that on new Pontiacs when he worked at a dealer in the seventies. I know I recently put a used motor in my wifes Windstar and it didn't work, I tapped the motor and wham off it went and has been working ever since.

Of course the first thing you need to do is "hot wire" the motor bypassing switch to see if it is indeed the motor and the switch is ok.

Brian
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:55 PM
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you can always use your fist too...fonz!

I heard of that before but never had that situation come up. Hotwiring it is a good idea. I know a guy who had a battery just for that when prepping a car for paint due to the handle and belt moulding which need it up and down.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:07 AM
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Henry, the one thing you need to be careful about when running those windows up and down for paint is that the latch actuating rod doesn't get bent by the window!

You are in production now, on late model cars you need to tape the rod over to the door skin or something so that the paint dept can't screw it up for you. You can't believe how often this happens. The bodyman pulls the handle and sends the car over to the paint dept with the window up. The paint dept needs to run the window down to mask it and they run the window down bending the handle actuator rod and screwing the latch all up!

You get it back to put together and the latch is screwed up and you need to fix it or get another in some cases. I started making a loop of tape to hold the latch rod from leaning over into the windows path. I also would NEVER leave the window switch in the car! Keep that with your R&I parts and if they need the window ran YOU go do it so they don't break something.

Brian
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:56 AM
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Is the a gm switch??

I have my instruction manual and it identifies the motor as being gm...am I to assume the switches are gm?...I see on ebay new ones(doubles)sell for 16 dollars...they say 1978-90...it looks very similar to wat I have...comments?..I'd like to buy one of these...the builder of the car told me I could take the switch off from the outside but when I put a screwdriver and put alittle tension on it...it felt very spring loaded and did not seem to want to come off and I didnt want to break something...seems to me thats connected from the backside..
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:39 AM
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I called Specialty Windows

Based on my symtoms described, he thought it was a switch problem...they sell gm oem switches for 36...on ebay you can buy an aftermarket switch for 16...I think I will opt for an oem for quality reasons and to make sure the bezel is the same...
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