Powerglide? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 09:06 PM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Powerglide?

I just rebuilt my Powerglide and I forgot to change out my govenor to match my set up and it shifts way to early and adjusting the tv linkage does not help. What I'm wondering is. Would it be OK if I left the tv linkage unhooked and just shifted it manually? atleast until I put in a manually valve body. I also bought A b&m pro shifter which came with the new shift linkage and they don't sell the set up with the tv hook up. Only for manual shift. Long story short This tv linkage is cause more pain than good. Is it Ok to leave it un-hooked as long as I manully shift it? I just don't want to burn it up! Don't know if this matters any, but I also installed a transgo shift kit in the valvebody.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 03:09 AM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
You most likely installed a shift improver kit, not that it really makes a lot of difference regarding your plan; it will be fine. Even the modulator hook-up is'nt completely mandatory. There's nothing really special about a full manual valve body; you can accomplish that by blocking the shift valve open with a 1/4" long section of 1/4" copper tubing. When Chevrolet made their Torque-Drive transmission, that they used for 2 years (69 & 70), it was basically a Powerglide with the automatic shifting aspect deleted, no throttle valve/passing gear, and no modulator circuit.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 07:12 AM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Junior stocker, It was a shift improver kit that I installed. I figured since I was putting new clutches, band, etc I might as well go into the valve body to. If you don't mind me asking to be sure. I can actually save a little money and basically turn my automatic valve body into a manual.
so were exactly would I place the copper tubing for it to work right, and do I just plug the modulator? what about the vac line coming from the manifold? Info greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 05:37 PM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 396chevelle
Junior stocker, It was a shift improver kit that I installed. I figured since I was putting new clutches, band, etc I might as well go into the valve body to. If you don't mind me asking to be sure. I can actually save a little money and basically turn my automatic valve body into a manual.
so were exactly would I place the copper tubing for it to work right, and do I just plug the modulator? what about the vac line coming from the manifold? Info greatly appreciated. Thanks.

As I said, get some 1/4" copper tubing, and cut a 1/4" long segment using a tubing cutter (it's a lot cleaner that way). Disassemble the 1-2 (also called lo-hi) shift valve/springs/spacer by removing the circlip, and keep the parts in the proper order. The 1/4" long copper 1/4" tube goes back in FIRST, followed by the rest of the valve mechanism. You have to shift it manually now, there will be no automatic shifting, and if you leave it in hi after stopping, you'll be leaving in hi.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:49 PM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
OK, good deal! What about he modulator and vac line from the manifold? Also would it hurt to use a 1/4" piece of stainlees tubing instead of the copper?

Last edited by 396chevelle; 11-30-2010 at 06:56 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:26 PM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I looked in my powerglide book and found the low drive shift valve which shifts it from low to high automatically I'm assuming that's it. Which would go like 1/4" tubing, shift valve, spring, spring seat then your low drive regulator valve. Right? Do I plug the modulator and intake vac line or do I leave those 2 hooked up. Sorry for the questions, but I just rebuilt this trans and I want to get this right so I don't burn it up! I really appreciate your help.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:37 PM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Just the 1/4" spacer made of 1/4" copper tubing in first, then assemble as normal. I would'nt worry about the modulator, just leave it and the pin in, and don't use a vacuum line at all. IF you did'nt put a steel clutch hub (25-35 dollars) in with the rebuild, you probably should have; it's the weak link in a Glide. The stock hubs are cast iron, very thin, and prone to cracking or completely breaking apart with solid shifts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:47 PM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Dang, wish I would have changed the hub out while I had it apart. I have another powerglide that I'm really going to do some things to as a spare for when this one goes out. Do you think the stock hub will hold up for a little while. This was my first glide rebuild so I went stock with everything. It was easy and went great. Now that I know I can do it. I'll spend a little on this next build.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2010, 06:26 PM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Just give it a go, the 409 equipped Powerglide cars also used the same hub, just a bit wider to use 5 lined plates, and it may last or not. I deal with a guy out of Magnolia, Texas on E-Bay for most of my Powerglide stuff; good prices and ships fast.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 09:50 PM
396chevelle's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: mobile
Age: 38
Posts: 253
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Thanks for the guidance. Seems to be working great! I like not having to worry about the tv cable. Just a simple shift. Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 06:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 8
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
manual shift conversion

hello; i just saw the idea of the copper tube on shift valve> i do not know where to find the valve? and i assume you take off retain clip and slide off all parts and then push on the copper tube to cover a hole?

Last edited by rick gray; 09-20-2013 at 06:37 PM. Reason: spelling
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:08 AM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
I just use a piece of 1/4" diameter, 1/4" long copper tubing, but anything that blocks the valve open can be used. The material itself does't matter. The Trans-Go shift kit for the Powerglide has a 1/4" long section of coil wire/spring they use. Mnay years ago, when I had my front engine dragster I was building, I took my Glide valve body in to a drag racer/transmission shop owner for him to convert to full manual shift as it was also converted to a "shortie". He would't just tell me what to do, even for a fee, and did the update for $10.00. When I got it home, I took it apart to find the "trick"; a hacked up, dirty piece of copper tubing, cut with a hacksaw, and not even cut cleanly or deburred. So I cut a few more with a tubing cutter, replaced his with mine, and forged on. The guy had a county contract for it's vehicles transmission services, even for the buses. Only he got caught using rebuilt parts for the bus transmissions, and billing for new. It was a huge amount of money, several hundred thousand dollars worth. I'm not a transmission expert, or do that for an occupation, but I share what I know with anyone. I've learned a lot from this forum, and other forums, and from certain individuals, such as Crosley, one of the mods here on HR.Com.Take what you know, and pay if forward, as they say. Butch/junior stocker.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to junior stocker For This Useful Post:
rick gray (09-26-2013)
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 10:25 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 8
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
shorty power glide

Quote:
Originally Posted by junior stocker View Post
I just use a piece of 1/4" diameter, 1/4" long copper tubing, but anything that blocks the valve open can be used. The material itself does't matter. The Trans-Go shift kit for the Powerglide has a 1/4" long section of coil wire/spring they use. Mnay years ago, when I had my front engine dragster I was building, I took my Glide valve body in to a drag racer/transmission shop owner for him to convert to full manual shift as it was also converted to a "shortie". He would't just tell me what to do, even for a fee, and did the update for $10.00. When I got it home, I took it apart to find the "trick"; a hacked up, dirty piece of copper tubing, cut with a hacksaw, and not even cut cleanly or deburred. So I cut a few more with a tubing cutter, replaced his with mine, and forged on. The guy had a county contract for it's vehicles transmission services, even for the buses. Only he got caught using rebuilt parts for the bus transmissions, and billing for new. It was a huge amount of money, several hundred thousand dollars worth. I'm not a transmission expert, or do that for an occupation, but I share what I know with anyone. I've learned a lot from this forum, and other forums, and from certain individuals, such as Crosley, one of the mods here on HR.Com.Take what you know, and pay if forward, as they say. Butch/junior stocker.
thanks for reply i have an art carr kit shorty power glide, i was told not to use it( to radical for street), the original owner had the tailshaft installed and left the valvebody stock, i want to convert to manual, so your data seems Ok, the question is <will it shift hard ,scared the manual dpwnshift at high rpm will affect trans? just using stock converter, with 350 engine , was told to just undo throttle lever and to not use the vacuum modulater,what would be max rpm for downshift since modulated i believe ,would not let down shift at high rpm? thanks Rick

Last edited by rick gray; 09-26-2013 at 10:36 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 08:08 PM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 63
Posts: 821
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rick gray View Post
thanks for reply i have an art carr kit shorty power glide, i was told not to use it( to radical for street), the original owner had the tailshaft installed and left the valvebody stock, i want to convert to manual, so your data seems Ok, the question is <will it shift hard ,scared the manual dpwnshift at high rpm will affect trans? just using stock converter, with 350 engine , was told to just undo throttle lever and to not use the vacuum modulater,what would be max rpm for downshift since modulated i believe ,would not let down shift at high rpm? thanks Rick
Usually, when a Glide is modified for performance use, the wavy cushion steels from the direct and reverse clutch packs are removed; and either additional steels are used to make up for clearances or additional lined plates are installed, depending on if the pistons have been cut down or not. That is probably responsible for a harder shift than a shift kit; but combined it's a little greater yet. I think the extra firmness of a shift kit AND removing the wavy cushion is what leads to the cast iron direct hub breaking. That's why a steel hub should always be used in a modified Glide. IF your shortie Glide is in fact, a SHORTIE, meaning the planetary output has been cut down, and a new "adapter plate" used for a rear housing, then you must run a manual shift valve body. The govenor gets deleted in a shortie, the passages to it get blocked, so the 1-2 shift valve needs to be blocked open in some fashion, ie, the 1/4" section of copper tube. I use the copper tube since it self centers on the little bump on the end of the 1-2 valve. Anything that blocks the valve open can be used however. As far as un-installing it, remove the 1-2 shift valve in it's entirety (there are several parts), keep them in order, install the 1/4" space (copper tube) first, and re-install the rest of the valve. Forget about any kickdown/passing gear/throttle valve linkage, remove and block the modulator vacuum tube. It also won't "downshift" on it's own if you block the 1-2 valve open, and of course it won't "upshift" on it's own. If you leave the trans in drive after a stop, you'll be starting out in drive. I think a modified Glide will still shift softer than a similarly modified TH350 or TH400 trans. I hope that explains what you were asking. Butch/junior stocker.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 8
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
shorty power glide

Quote:
Originally Posted by junior stocker View Post
Usually, when a Glide is modified for performance use, the wavy cushion steels from the direct and reverse clutch packs are removed; and either additional steels are used to make up for clearances or additional lined plates are installed, depending on if the pistons have been cut down or not. That is probably responsible for a harder shift than a shift kit; but combined it's a little greater yet. I think the extra firmness of a shift kit AND removing the wavy cushion is what leads to the cast iron direct hub breaking. That's why a steel hub should always be used in a modified Glide. IF your shortie Glide is in fact, a SHORTIE, meaning the planetary output has been cut down, and a new "adapter plate" used for a rear housing, then you must run a manual shift valve body. The govenor gets deleted in a shortie, the passages to it get blocked, so the 1-2 shift valve needs to be blocked open in some fashion, ie, the 1/4" section of copper tube. I use the copper tube since it self centers on the little bump on the end of the 1-2 valve. Anything that blocks the valve open can be used however. As far as un-installing it, remove the 1-2 shift valve in it's entirety (there are several parts), keep them in order, install the 1/4" space (copper tube) first, and re-install the rest of the valve. Forget about any kickdown/passing gear/throttle valve linkage, remove and block the modulator vacuum tube. It also won't "downshift" on it's own if you block the 1-2 valve open, and of course it won't "upshift" on it's own. If you leave the trans in drive after a stop, you'll be starting out in drive. I think a modified Glide will still shift softer than a similarly modified TH350 or TH400 trans. I hope that explains what you were asking. Butch/junior stocker.
thanks for wealth of info!!! i am on a budget with my toys, can the stock shift body be modified( some say drilled out?) or will just blocking shift valve port wit h copper tube do the trick on it,s own? where would governor be if there was one? i can,t find in exploded view, I will try to pay this forward Thanks Rick
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Powerglide TV question woodz428 Transmission - Rearend 3 03-05-2010 10:45 PM
Transmission for a v/8 powered trike? Bad Rat Transmission - Rearend 31 02-17-2009 12:57 PM
2 speed powerglide trans 64r1 Transmission - Rearend 2 08-03-2007 11:29 AM
Powerglide trans to 400 Chevy motor K9sicem Transmission - Rearend 3 07-09-2006 09:43 AM
Powerglide street manners questions. RObs71Nova Transmission - Rearend 6 08-02-2005 10:21 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.