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Old 12-05-2012, 09:48 AM
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Powerglide and cam combo (Street-strip)

Hi! And... excuses my poor english speaking usually in french so...

I'm looking to build a 383 with the biggest torque gain having a powerglide (with TCI kit and 2500 stall) that i wanna keep. I did a lot of searches on the forums and... Oh!!! Not easy to be fixed. I stopped it at the following cam:

Howards 110885-10
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-5,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225 int./225 exh
Advertised Duration: 278 int./278 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 int./0.525 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110 (Not less, having power brake)

My rear end ratio: 3.73 and my intention is to get strong acceleration. Also, i like choppy idle and have tought about this one: Howards Cams Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 110525-10 - SummitRacing.com

I plan to get the 75cc AFR 195 (It should give a 9.5:1) I have the Brodix HP1intake (0-6000 range and would be good for torque?)

So, what cam and carb suggested?

Thanks a lot!!!

Harold.

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Old 12-05-2012, 09:58 AM
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Edelbrock performer and performer RPM usally work the best for mild build and good tq at low rpm.

Power glide and 373 is not going to add up to much top end speed. If you want to cruise at 70mph forget it. Power glide is great for race track. Not so happy on the street with 373.

What type of pistons. I ask because 75cc heads dont usally give you 9.5:1 in a 383. Unless its zero deck and flat top pistons.

I would start here.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:06 AM
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Yepper.I think builds could start from the rear end forward to have a matched build.You kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place having a limited RPM engine and a two speed trans and the 3.73'srear end gears.Honestly when I saw you using a glide I almost suggested a brake for it,but what's the point when your engine can't spin up to make use of it.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:23 PM
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It will be with flat top pistons and near zero deck. Honnestly, the compression ratio calculator says around 9.4:1. That's what i'm looking for something like a race track setup and great torques for acceleration.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:32 PM
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street/strip and power glide?what car?

I converted my 67 Camaro back in the day. It had a solid roller cam,5.57 gears. It could not be driven on the highway at all.It had a top speed of 115 mph.
I also used a 5,000 rpm stall.
before that it had 5.13 gears and a 4 speed.
that was in the late 70s.
With todays technology you can go faster and have a smother idle. I would use an O/drive auto and maybe as high as 4.30 gears depending on engine and car weight
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:00 PM
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the th700r4 is very popular casue it works well in cars without computers. Also has low first and taller top gear. It helps alot. But it is heavier and uses more hp to turn it over. Or parastatic drag? i think its called. Not that i can spell worth a crap. and i love the powerglide but for any street car the th700r4 will make you very happy. Also with gas prices these days and trans being for sale around 1000 bucks the 700r4 will pay for its self over time. That in its self is very rare in the fast car world.

Do you have 4 valve relief pistons they may have as much as 6 cc depth and still be flat tops. if rebuilder pistons it may be even more. You did .041 as gasket height?

Normal deck is .025 and .010 is normal after being cut.

hope this helps.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolrider View Post
My rear end ratio: 3.73 and my intention is to get strong acceleration. Also, i like choppy idle
You are lacking knowledge of launch ratios. If you multiply the rear gear ratio times the first gear ratio, that gives you your launch ratio. Ideally, around 10:1 works best. In other words, your 3.73:1 rear ratio times a first gear ratio of around 2.7:1 would equal 10.07:1. Your PG trans will have a first gear ratio of 1.76:1 if it's a stock first gear, so one or the other needs to be changed in order to afford you optimal launch acceleration. Either use a different transmission that has a first gear ratio around 2.7:1 or change the rear end ratio to something in the 5.57:1 range (12-bolt) for a 9.80:1 first gear final drive ratio. Your current final drive first gear ratio with the PG and 3.73:1 rear gear will be 6.56:1 and you will be very disappointed.

As far as a lumpy cam, install a CompCams Mutha Thumpr. It'll work with your 9.5:1 static compression ratio.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:35 PM
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If you do make a move to a 700R4 get a V8 one from the early 90's.The V8's have better clutches in them than the V6's.The one down fall of the 700R4's is the first to second shift where second is that much lower(numerically lower)you see a drop in RPM.I read somewhere a fix for that where you can get a closer ratio second.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
If you do make a move to a 700R4 get a V8 one from the early 90's.The V8's have better clutches in them than the V6's.The one down fall of the 700R4's is the first to second shift where second is that much lower(numerically lower)you see a drop in RPM.I read somewhere a fix for that where you can get a closer ratio second.
Dont buy a used trans. Get a rebuilt one like one this guy sells.

Level 1 Rebuilt 700R4 4L60 Transmission 2WD or 4x4 | eBay

Its a good deal for a great trans he will also work with you to get it installed right with the correct linkage and lockup options.

He can do the close ratio upgrade but its not needed. The low first gear is great pulls you out the whole and second is your power gear. Usally works great with torque build. It is also only a little off not a major change like granny gear truck trans.

Also will let you run 1500 rpm on the highway. Really helps on fuel and noise on the road. Also makes your engine last a little longer if you need to drive it on the highway for any length of time.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:48 PM
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Power glides are for 2300 pound race cars with a 700hp engine.

You don't have that. The glide will be a dud with 3.73's.

What is the car weight and rear tire diameter.

For a street strip motor you want to build with a 10.5:1cr (92-94 octane gas)

You are making critical errors in your combo plans.

383 with aluminum heads and flat tops and 0 or near 0 deck clearance wants a 65cc cylinder head.

you need to either gear the hell out of it or fall out of love with that glide and get a th350 or th400.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:36 PM
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I own a 67 Beaumont that you can see, i think, with a clic on my coolrider nickname.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:45 PM
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I know! My mecanic friend says the same good things about the 700r4 so... I wanted to keep my fact. powerglide but... It seems that i won't have choice to set with that transmission i think. He's a transmission specialist with great knowledge in race track setup and wants to build one for me.

Last edited by Coolrider; 12-06-2012 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:00 AM
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That's clear enough. Go to a 700r4. Too heavy and not strong enough for a PG.
3,300 pounds with 275R15.

Thanks to everybody for your help.

Last edited by Coolrider; 12-06-2012 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Dont buy a used trans. Get a rebuilt one like one this guy sells.

Level 1 Rebuilt 700R4 4L60 Transmission 2WD or 4x4 | eBay

Its a good deal for a great trans he will also work with you to get it installed right with the correct linkage and lockup options.

He can do the close ratio upgrade but its not needed. The low first gear is great pulls you out the whole and second is your power gear. Usally works great with torque build. It is also only a little off not a major change like granny gear truck trans.

Also will let you run 1500 rpm on the highway. Really helps on fuel and noise on the road. Also makes your engine last a little longer if you need to drive it on the highway for any length of time.
I honestly was thinking more in the vein of him building his own.There are a number of guys that have gone the route of Trans-Go shift kit,Vett servo,5 boost valve.The thing is it doesn't address the sun gear.The failure there is either the splines gets stripped or the weld breaks.



Yrs ago TCI impressed me.They are a very progressive class company.First check we received as contingency money was from them.All the rebuild parts address the issues that 700R4's have.From their monster sun gear to a number of stages in their valve bodies.They developed a valve body that eliminates the critical TV cable adjustment.So either for a you build or to buy of their trannies,it is a nationally known company with a excellent customer service department.

But we need to let the O/P post to see what direction he wants to go.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:56 PM
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Yeah the kit to replace the cable with the brain box or internal is ok. But just trying to keep the price down. I have also rebuilt them before the problem is a pro will be able to source the parts cheaper and get all the right hard parts replaced. Sun gears will break if you have too much tq if its not replaced with one piece hardened basket and splines. Not to mention the stack of good snap ring pliers you need to get the job done.

Looks like the op is all set with local tech to build him one. Just make sure he keeps the cost down for you and uses top quaility soft parts so it will last.

Also to the op i would hang onto the glide they are popular option for collector car and can always be set aside for reinstall one day. Just have it built and set it on the shelf until the time is right.
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