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Powerglide pressure port for temp sensor install?

14K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  FirstLight7 
#1 ·
Think my trans temps may be reading a bit hotter than they actually are. Currently have my temp probe installed in the pressure port reading port. Is this going to be reporting overly hot temps?

Trans is installed on a street/strip toy. 9.5 converter 3200 stall. I run a 3.25 gear and 29" tire, usually don't cruise much above 2k.

On a 90+ degree day after a quick pull temps usually climbs up to 195* or so and hovers around 195-200* while at cruise after that. I've seen as high at 210* or so after a pass at the track. I always let it cool before another pass.

Running what I consider a huge cooler. It's a 10x14 dual core derale unit with -6an lines/fittings. Also has a 10" high output fan on it that I run constantly. (grandnational IC fan) Also run the deep pan (+2 qts).

It is mounted in front of the aft bumper.




 
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#5 ·
Sure it does. It radiates heat when it sits. Cools much more sitting for 30 mins than it does running for 30. I dont have great cooler flow either. Trans guy suggested i try running with the input shaft bushing to increase flow next time around. Been running without because the converter guys suggested it.
 
#7 ·
If the converter has a bushing inside on the turbine, do not install the bushing in the stator as suggested by your 'trans guy'

There are methods to increase flow into the cooling system on the aluminum glide trans via the valve body.

The input shaft: Is this shaft a unit with sealing rings on it? Or is it a ringless shaft design?

There are methods to circulate the fluid thru the converter while the car sits. Likely not cost effective for you. A small fan blowing up into the bell housing would help some.

You have the temp sensor in a pressure port... Which port? Most OEM glides have a port on the band servo cover. Many have a pressure port at rear of the case for reverse pressure testing. I doubt there is much difference in temp reading

If you have a small inefficient stall converter, it will build heat at lower speeds. You post about cruise RPM at 2k.. with a 3200 stall converter, that will generate more heat , heavier the car, the more heat is built
 
#8 ·
I've tried leaving the car on with the trans cooler fan going. It does not cool down faster this way. It cools down faster shutting the car down completely for 30 mins or so.

It has a TCI manual valve body, Tbrake, OEM alum case and gear set, 10 clutch drum kit.

It's a PTC 9.5 billet converter. I was told by Dusty at PTC you can run with or without a bushing. He suggested without, so thats what I did. I see around 4.8% slippage up top and it was designed to couple at low rpm. (below 6k). 3200 was the advertised stall and doesn't mean much. Just stabbing the throttle it won't flash much over 1500. The car is 2850lbs with me in it. On the T-brake with around 4lbs of boost it will stall to 3000ish. Trapping about 160 in the 1/4. 124 in the 1/8th. The setup works great at the track, just a little warm trans temp wise. At night, once ambient temps drop to high 70's, it sits around 170 cruising home on the highway.

The input shaft is an aftermarket hardened TH type shaft. It has a spiral groove cut around it for more flow with the bushing installed... I'd guess? I do not believe it has any type of sealing ring on it.

Was mainly wondering if moving the temp probe to the pan would give me a better idea of the temperature. Or if it would roughly be the same. It's currently plugged in the port at the rear of the case.

The trans builder was telling me without the bushing installed the cooler circuit sees much less pressure, so flow through the cooler is poor. Does this sound correct to you? I assumed added restriction would build pressure, but I'm not familiar with the fluid paths and how the shaft bushing affects them.


thanks!

 
#9 ·
Grooved spiral input shaft, does same as the bushing removed. Bushing is an Industry standard in your converter build, will have a bushing inside on turbine. There are exceptions, rare though.

I dont see many grooved input shafts any more. Oil will flow easier with bushing out. The tube n fin design cooler you have is less efficient in flow and cooling than a flat plate design.


Oil temp in the pan may be slightly different, not sure. Notice I said different, not lower. Maybe higher or lower. I think the same with in 5-8 degrees, I bet.
 
#10 ·
The old B&M trans temp gauge uses a Tee fitting on the cooler line for the probe. Relatively simple and cheap plumbing to duplicate if you wanted to make sure on the reading.

If you do this please let us know if reads differently, if its the same I may start putting mine at the port :)
 
#11 ·
Pre cooler would read hotter, post cooler would be cooler. I’m not sure what the fluid path looks like in relation to the pressure port. The average temp of the majority of the fluid is what you’d want ideally I’d guess. That would be best recorded at the pan. Next time I have the pan off, I’ll tap it and relocate the sensor. Prob install a bushing then as well though so it won’t be a great comparison.
 
#12 ·
That should work, I haven't looked at the install for the gauge in years, this is what B&M says with their setup>

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-80212.pdfinstructions_bmm-80212.pdf

Under step 2 they suggest the cooler return line 'this location is recommended to monitor true transmission temperature'

Just sharing the info here :) not sure what all they tested to came up with that. At that point I think the pan is the next place for the fluid to collect.
 
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