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Old 02-03-2005, 04:45 PM
Max Wedgie
 
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PPG Base/Clear over new Acrylic

Man what a cool forum! I wish I had stumbled across you guys earlier!

OK Here's my situation:

Restoring a 64 DOdge Polara. Took it down to bare metal by blasting and sanding. Did all the body work and Primed with Valspar DTM2000. Blocked and then sealed with PPG non sanding primer sealer. SHot 3 wet coats of bright red PPG acrylic enamel. Turned out pretty good with only slight orange peel. Wet sanded with 1500,2000,2500 then buffed with Mequires fine cut, swirl remover, maching glaze, etc.... Now the paint is smooth but does not have the gloss I am looking for. In talking with the PPG rep he said that AE will never buff out to it's original unsanded/buffed gloss. Lesson #1 Learned!

SOOOO... I have decided to re-coat with base coat/clear coat. Here is my question: What is the proper procedure for applying a BC/CC to an existing AE? I have sanded all surfaces with 800 grit and it is ready to go. What type of PPG primer do i need to use? Do i need to block sand and seal before base coat? On a BC/CC system do you wet sand the base coat before applying clear or do you just wet sand and buff the clear to get it glass smooth? How many coats of each? Which is the best PPG base/clear to use.

I am only a hobbiest painter and this car was my first job but I want it to turn out right. Thanks!!!

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Old 02-03-2005, 06:45 PM
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Why not just spray clear over the AE?

Why would you need to base it?
Did you break through the AE?

800 is perfect set up to clear over and the AE is a lot stronger than base.
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:52 PM
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Yes I did go thru the AE in a couple spots chasing nibs and orange peel (and a #%@# mosquito)
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:02 PM
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First I'm going to assume you activated the AE.

If you only have a couple of spots why not spot them in with your left over AE and clear next day?
This is the route I would take.

TO base is a potential nightmare at this point as there is a very good chance the AE could fry with the application of a 2k sealer a 2k primer or just plain base.
Only sure way of it not frying would be shoot a coat of DP epoxy over the job and than base and clear next day.
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:18 PM
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Yeah - the AE was activated.

What do you mean by "fry" the AE?? It has been curing since Oct if that makes any difference.

Basically what I wanted to do was just kinda start all over without taking it down to metal. There are also a couple small ripples that I wanted to smooth out with a skim coat if I could.
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:21 PM
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Fry means it will look like you put paint stripper on it.

Now that I understand what you are doing do all your final corrections and spray with an epoxy one or two coats, let set overnight and spot wet-sand any nubs and than start basing.
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:36 AM
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Cool. Thanks for the advice!

Any recommendation on the exact type of PPG base/clear??? I am looking for something that will really buff out to a high gloss.
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Early B's
Cool. Thanks for the advice!

Any recommendation on the exact type of PPG base/clear??? I am looking for something that will really buff out to a high gloss.
***************************************

For coverage, if your PPG place has Global or ICI I would use one of those bases.
Now for the clear I would get some Glamor clear from the Dupont jobber to accomplish what you want to do.
PPG has always been weak on their clears since the 82 was made illegal.
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:40 AM
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See - this is why it pays to ask alot of questions. I'm sure the PPG guys would say there was no problem with their clear.

So there wouldn't be any problem shooting the Dupont clear onto a PPG base as far as compatability, longevity etc??? I've always heard that you should stick with the same product from start to finish (but that's usually been from someone who's trying to sell me their particular product)
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:43 AM
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No sacrifice at all!

Its done everyday.
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