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Old 06-13-2006, 10:01 AM
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Which PPG clear system to use?

Hi,

Can someone give me their recommendation on which PPG clear system to use? Part numbers for clear, reducer, hardener...

It will be 80degrees in my garage. I figure the car will be 70 degrees. Low humidity. Knock off hvlp gun.

Im an amateur and almost had great success (on my third attempt) this weekend painting & clearing a fender (practicing for my mustang) with the Shopline (my ppg jobbers low end product) brand.

The end result with the clear was a small amount of solvent pop. It was 2:1 clear and hardener. there was no reducer and im not sure if that was a problem. I know that if it would have been thinner I would have had better results spraying it on; remember, amateur.

If you could just give me the combination of ingredients that are the most forgiving. Maybe a very slow reducer and me just waiting a little longer for the flash times. I know I can paint and buff the car no problem...my problem is definitely the solvent pop.

I've read just about every thread out there on this. Just haven't seen one that will tell me exactly to use.

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Old 06-13-2006, 10:23 AM
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If your doing a complete car at once you might look at the omni "something ?61"
If your doing a side or something you might consider the PPG 42 with proper range hardener.

Both are pretty user friendly for garage environment.

Like you say, slow activator is always best and just wait longer between coats.
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Old 06-13-2006, 10:45 AM
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unfortunately Omni is no longer sold at my jobber. I am doing the whole car at once. any one else?
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:04 AM
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the ag40 matrix is pretty good. lays out good and buffs good.
use the slowest acc you can get.

Last edited by shine; 06-13-2006 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:33 AM
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I am using PPG DCU2002 with the DCX9 hardener and adjusting my reducer as temp dictates. I am also using a knock-off HF 43430 gun. I have found the knock-off gun will lay the clear down like glass when you up the inlet pressure to around 45psi. BarryK turned me on to DCU2002 after I asked a question about PPG's clear. It is the most durable clear PPG makes. 3000 and 4000 are both production shop clears that are not as durable.

Check my clear results on my update post.

Vince
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:00 PM
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Vince,

can you give me just a quick tip on "adjusting my reducer as temp dictates"?

i think this is key for me. does this mean more reducer as the temperature rises?

Do appreciate it.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hgufrin
Vince,

can you give me just a quick tip on "adjusting my reducer as temp dictates"?

i think this is key for me. does this mean more reducer as the temperature rises?

Do appreciate it.
PPG has several heat ranges for reducer, like DT870, T885, DT895, and DT898. The last two numbers are the heat range they are engineered for. I have been over reducing the clear by about 2% to aid in spraying.

Vince
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:39 PM
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excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:39 PM
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PPG's Global D894 is a slow drying premium clear that I've never seen solvent pop, good stuff but pricey I agree on adding some slow reducer to the shopline clear might cure your pop problem-although I've never used the shopline clear and know there isn't a spec for adding reducers most urethanes will accept reducer without problem. Some of the hyperclears need a really hot reducer though- like Dupont's 7600HC where you can add blending solvent up to 10% for better flow and sprayability. Another big problem and cause for solvent pop is a poor gun or bad adjustment where the clear is going on way too thick-this causes the surface to seal up before the solvents purge out and to compound the problem if the clear is curing too quick the painter tends to dump the product on even heavier- the result might look good immediately after spraying but then the solvent popping starts.
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:38 AM
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bob just hit it on the head. i see the biggest reason for pop as applying clear too heavy too fast. i shoot a wet heavy coat but i do it with an iwata. before i bought the iwata's my old guns just did not atomize it enough. thus i had to really grease it to get it slick. i really believe this is the reason so many painters have pop. it's the gun , not the clear. i never use anything but 95 reducer . the slower the cure the better. most all new clears are for production and need to go on thinner to flash faster.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:26 AM
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The problem I had with solvent pop occured a month after the piece was cleared and only after it had been wet sanded and the first wet re-coat of clear applied. I don't think my problem was applying too heavy.

Vince
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:14 AM
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last question...an example - to over-reduce by 2% means that if I have 4:1:1 which amounts to 10 oz., then throw in .2 oz of additional reducer...correct?

2% of my mixture not 2% of my clear or 2% of my hardener....???

It is a basic question but I am still a beginner.
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:59 AM
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Yes, 2% more reducer than is required by the 4-1-1 mixture.

Vince
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Old 06-14-2006, 02:53 PM
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umm, if you sprayed your sealer using ppg's materials, and you don't have anything to mix ppg's clear, i don't recommend using it, i'd look into omni's quick clear it's much simpler to use and is easy to mix, it only consists of two parts .. 2 parts clear .. 1 part hardener

quick clear = MC260 (Omni Au)

Fast topcoat Hardener = MH167 (Omni Au)

this type of clear works over any type of ppg base coat, Deltron 2000 & the old DBU basecoat, which uses the DRR1185 reactive reducer.
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Norris
umm, if you sprayed your sealer using ppg's materials, and you don't have anything to mix ppg's clear, i don't recommend using it, i'd look into omni's quick clear it's much simpler to use and is easy to mix, it only consists of two parts .. 2 parts clear .. 1 part hardener

quick clear = MC260 (Omni Au)

Fast topcoat Hardener = MH167 (Omni Au)

this type of clear works over any type of ppg base coat, Deltron 2000 & the old DBU basecoat, which uses the DRR1185 reactive reducer.
I was painting a car for a friend last year and the paint shop was out of MC161 (which I use more than any other clear) so on the recommendation of the jobber he bought Omni MC260 instead. I didn't like it at all, it flashed way to quickly for an overall paint job in fairly high temps (mid 80's) and had to be laid on heavy in order to get it to lay out. Even laying it on heavy it still didn't flow well and we had to do more wetsanding and buffing than I have ever had to do on a paint job before. It was extremely hard to buff too. Of course after we had spent so much time sanding and buffing and finally had it looking nice, we paid the price for laying it on so heavy with solvent pop the first day the car sat out in the sun. We ended up sanding the whole thing back down and painting it again. This is the only time I've ever had bad results with an Omni product but I'll never use MC260 again. If I can't get the MC161 I'll pay more and move up to the PPG 2002 or 2021 or switch brands. I'm not a pro but I have painted several cars and trucks and my paint jobs have won quite a few car shows and IMHO the MC260 just isn't up to the same standards as the rest of the Omni line and is nowhere close to the high end PPG stuff. It might be fine for spot jobs or something like a bike but not for an overall on a car or truck.

Clark
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