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Old 02-24-2004, 09:59 PM
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ppg concept or base/clearcoat

i have an older bmw that im prepping for paint, the hours allready invested makes it important to get that "show-quality" paint job look (aren't we all after that). the last car i painted using ppg concept urethane, color sanded, then sprayed a couple coats of clear. it was brilliant and not hard to work with. i have a brother thats been a bodyman for years and he insists that i go with a base coat/ clear coat, and forget the color sanding. its odd, 25 years ago i painted a car for him (laquer at the time) and now he's the body guy. are the bc/cc's the way to go for an ultra smooth finish?

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Old 02-25-2004, 12:30 AM
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Wonder what color? If a solid color I like PPG's single stage 3 part CLV . Can be a handfull if you don't spray that often. If it's a metallic color than PPG's DBU or DBC with clear on top would be the choice. Flatsanding will be a result of application skill not clearcoat or absence of.
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Old 02-25-2004, 10:12 AM
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Right on Milo. I totally agree

Some people think that a clearcoat makes a tougher or more durable finnish.
Some think clearcoat paints shine better.

Both are wrong.

I think clear is best for sealing in metallics, flake, and graphics, and for producing "edge-less" stripes.
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Old 02-25-2004, 10:25 AM
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BC CC, is the most forgiving paint system there is. You should not sand the color at all before applying the clear. It can be applied good enough that it dosn't need sanded. But sanding it will get rid of that new paint look, and give a smother reflection. Which makes it look deeper.

CC will also keep the color from fading as bad as single stage.
And if applied right will have a deeper looking shine.

Troy
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:32 PM
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the car is going to be white - alpinewiess the germans call it. i've painted a few dozen cars, a few custom jobs on bikes, tool boxes, workbenches, i kinda have a tendency to paint graphics and flames on things, probably why i got used to color sanding. i've used the three part urethane on two diff cars and a bike (left over yellow on a workbench) it came out very smooth and glossy, but maybe its my imagination, but the color does look deeper after clear coating. after reading the posts on this site i think i'll give the bc/cc a try. just never used it before...
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Old 02-25-2004, 07:59 PM
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K, but the thing with white is it's tough to see what's going on which leads to runs and other problems. If you clear-coat it your up against 6 coats. 3 coats color then 3 coats clear. If you single stage it your putting down 3 coats and your out of there. Half as much chance of trouble showing up. The single stage stuff can be clearcoated if you want later.. Heres a bike with that German white (as well as green)in single stage. http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=1440
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Old 02-26-2004, 04:24 PM
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Troy

It is your ride and I think Troy hit it best. No you dont have to color sand, but if you do you get a better job. You are not trying to make money on the job, so extra time is yours. Take a look at the Pontaic in my gallery. From what you say I would not expect to see a run on your work.

hr41pearl
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Old 02-26-2004, 06:52 PM
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they are all outstanding, thom!!! beautiful "ghost bird"
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Old 02-26-2004, 06:55 PM
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White and a few other solid colors, you could color sand. But why?
The window to apply the clear is very short. To get the best adhesion you have to apply the clear before the color gets really dry. as that is part of the chemical reaction between the clear and the color. Any color that has any metallic or pearls or mica of any kind will show where you sanded and will not be the right color. Any thing that needs sanded, should be redone. Sanding the color will not help the shine. If you have dust, bugs, runs etc.
sand and re shoot. If you wait to long the clear will not adherer to the color.

Troy.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:08 PM
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where can I buy ppg concept clv ADDITIVES

Does anyone out there have a paint distributer that can sell me the additives for this paint , also looking for some DU5
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:00 PM
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I've always heard the gloss and durability of a good basecoat/clearcoat system is superior to that of a good single stage. This makes sense to me because if you look at most manufacturers warranties the warranty is less for single stage finishes than base/clear systems. It's been a while since I used PPG products but as I recall you could only get like a 5 year warranty on a concept SS but you could get a lifetime warranty on base/clear so the base clear must hold up better. That's not to say that SS won't hold up well though. A good one last a long time.

As for color sanding the base I wouldn't. However, if you want a super deep and smooth finish I would flow coat it by spraying 3-4 coats one day let it cure overnight then sand it flat with 600 and put another 3 coats on. You get a super deep and flat finish that will stand out even next to other base clear jobs.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:39 PM
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If you want a quality, durable long lasting refinish job. Get away from PPG all together. Find you a Sikkens distributor. They have their Auto Base Plus and Lesonal , either of which will outlast any PPG paint job.

This comes from someone who paints every day and has had to strip and repaint many 4-5 year old PPG paint jobs because of peeling.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ureckirepair
If you want a quality, durable long lasting refinish job. Get away from PPG all together. Find you a Sikkens distributor. They have their Auto Base Plus and Lesonal , either of which will outlast any PPG paint job.

This comes from someone who paints every day and has had to strip and repaint many 4-5 year old PPG paint jobs because of peeling.
Pretty funny first post..

pretty funny, you know your in a 6 year old thread right?
6 years man. longer than 4-5 ...

How bout posting up some pics to back up what you say...?
Yeah , got any non PPG pics..

kinda like clicky-> http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...2&page=1&pp=20
Everyone of them is PPG ..not one of them has failed .

Come on , show us what you got man

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