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PPG Epoxy Primer

59K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
Does anyone know what the difference between the Omni MP 170 Epoxy Primer vs the DPLF other than of course more than twice the price.

I am getting ready to prime sandblasted parts.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
I do notice a huge Gap in Epoxy primers.. from close to $100 a quart to $40 a quart.

Is cheap Epoxy better than no Epoxy? If SPI is as good as they say that is a killer deal and wish I would of started that route when I began my project.

I believe there was a previous post where someone stated that once cured you can swipe with Laquer thinner to test the quality?
 
#5 ·
I havent used the OMINI epoxy but I have used the DP 40 which seemed pretty good at the time.choosing an epoxy is very important because everything else relys on it (like the foundation of a house) If it aint right ,nothing else will be right....if your just doing a used car to sell mabee the omini epoxy will get you by but if its anything like the paint ,just barly....go with a quality epoxy if you want it to last....money well spent..
over the years I've used many kinds of epoxy and about 5-6 yrs ago I stumbled onto this SPI epoxy everyone is raving about now days...
There is NO better epoxy on this planet..for those that cant just pick some up and have to order it ,Its well worth the wait,even I would wait for it to come in the mail,its that good...fortunately all I gotta do is make a call and its delivered to my door....Other than SPI universal clear ,these are the ONLY products of ALL the products I use at my shop that I would even concider ordering through the mail and WILL NOT SUBSTITUTE.....
OK,Three products I cant do without but I'm not supposed to use SPI and Ospho in the same sentance.... :sweat:
 
#6 ·
Uh oh the Ospho word.

OK here we go- I sandblasted some front grille parts for the 1959 chevy truck I am starting. Brought them home and evenly sponged ospho on them. I then took one of the parts and rinsed it with water and dried it. Flash rust occured right away so I reapplied ospho.

Is this the correct way to use OSPHO i.e. put it on and leave on without rinsing? the directions on the container do not say anything about rinsing but they have a mild warning about testing use with epoxy products.

On the other hand the PPG DX520 cleaner which is a phosphoric acid states to rinse the item and prime the same day.

Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?

Thanks everyone
 
#7 ·
1putt said:
Hmmm may need to look into that one instead. The PPG DP50LF was $90/qt with the cat-thought that was a little high.

67Elcamino said:
I do notice a huge Gap in Epoxy primers.. from close to $100 a quart to $40 a quart.

Is cheap Epoxy better than no Epoxy? If SPI is as good as they say that is a killer deal and wish I would of started that route when I began my project.

I believe there was a previous post where someone stated that once cured you can swipe with Laquer thinner to test the quality?
SPI is THE epoxy as far as I am concerned. As with any product use it properly, follow the manufacturers recommendations.

SPI ships FREE to your doorstep if you do not have a local distributor.
A little mentioned product is their urethane reducers. They are made from virgin ingrediants and are superior to any other reducers I have used. The cost is far easier on my wallet too.

Check out their pricing @ http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing Info.htm.. And remember always compare pricing of paints as sprayable quanities as the mixing differences make it hard to compare otherwise.
 
#8 ·
1putt said:
Hmmm may need to look into that one instead. The PPG DP50LF was $90/qt with the cat-thought that was a little high.
Well dont forget ,Those CEO's gotta go all over the world to get thier nails manicured and the goat vomit fascials,then theres the golf coarse's None of that comes cheap ...That may be why if you have a problem using PPG or Dupont You can never get one on the phone to answear any questions or care much about quality and competition...
On the other hand I've called SPI mabee 50 times in the past 5yrs and every time the owner (Barry) answeard and shared his knowlage...
And I've seen his hands and trust me I dont think he even knows what a manicure is......My kind of guy and a great company....
 
#10 ·
1putt said:
Uh oh the Ospho word.

OK here we go- I sandblasted some front grille parts for the 1959 chevy truck I am starting. Brought them home and evenly sponged ospho on them. I then took one of the parts and rinsed it with water and dried it. Flash rust occured right away so I reapplied ospho.

Is this the correct way to use OSPHO i.e. put it on and leave on without rinsing? the directions on the container do not say anything about rinsing but they have a mild warning about testing use with epoxy products.

On the other hand the PPG DX520 cleaner which is a phosphoric acid states to rinse the item and prime the same day.

Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?

Thanks everyone
see ,I knew I shouldnt have mentioned it. You dont rinse or neutralize Ospho just let it dry 24 hrs (theres a little more to it) and you'll never see surface rust again on bare metal...and yes,SPI epoxy and Ospho work extremly well together...
everything you need to know about ospho is in the "ospho solution" thread here at HR just do a search it'll pop right up.
SPI epoxy also works with every kind of paint we use in the auto industry..anything I've ever used anyway
 
#11 ·
I read that thread and there seemed to be some conflicting statements and why I was getting a bit confused.

Nevertheless, I am taking that direction. I have applied OSPHO and will let it dry at least 24 hours-kept inside and will probably spray the primer next weekend. Will look into the SPI sounds like the way to go.

What do you mean there's a little more to it on the Ospho subject?
 
#26 · (Edited)
If you want complete directions of how I've used Ospho for the last 40 years just PM me. You'll get super great adhesion with no issues but you have to follow my directions closely.I really don't care who says what about it they are wrong. if they have problems then they are simply not doing it right, end of story. You wouldn't believe how many different ways this procedure gets screwed up One guy even primed when the ospho was still wet. Come on man.
 
#14 ·
Other than using the Ospho you pretty much did everything wrong and WILL have a problem later.....The "improper" use of acid products is THE #1 cause of paint failures......PM me and I'll run through the procedure...a tried and true procedure that's served me well for over 25 yrs. and thats an open invitation to anyone that wants to try it to remove rust or protect bare metal from surface rust.

For the most part the spi site is a bunch of PAINTERS playing follow the leader...just mention Ospho and every single one will jump on you and none of them have actually used it..... properly anyways....It is an SPI "USER" site
started by users...almost a religion.check it out.... with a grain of salt....

anyone that hasn't used Ospho (specifically) should probably give their fingers a rest...when they start saying how it has to be neutralized,it wont work with SPI epoxy or Bla bla bla,etc, I know for a fact they haven't used it..they just confuse the issue with misinformation....they do sound like they know what they're talking about and a few even have as much experiance as me (since 75)...so I understand all the confusion..a few even had me wondering if somehow I was wrong and I've just been lucky for 25yrs and hundreds of cars,so did all the tests everyone suggested and a few of my own ,It passed every one....As much as I love SPI epoxy and universal clear,they'll always be my second favorite product, I just cant do without the Ospho...SPI as a company however ,IS #1 there's simply none better in this business....I dont play politics I just call it like I see it...
 
#15 ·
I'm a rookie, i've used the PPG and Omni epoxy. They suck compared to the SPI. Try sanding the PPG stuff after a MONTH, it will gum up just like you sprayed it 2hrs ago. No matter what you do, PPG will not lay smooth, even if you reduce it twice what it calls for, still peely. SPI, lays smooth, sands super easy.

As far as the SPI site that Deadbodyman refferred to, it is tough to post over there. I made one comment about how a "dealer painter" did a hack job on a friends car, they jumped all over me, PM'd me about it. All i was saying that if you don't take pride in your work, don't do it just to make a buck. Makes all the others in the business "seem" like hacks to others outside the business. It stereotypes "all" painters which, isn't true. Now if i have an SPI question, i just call Barry directly. He is always helpful and guides you thru the process.
 
#16 ·
hvac phil , i'm sure all the painters on the spi site will be glad to know how much you appreciated the help they gave you over the last year doing your mustang. right up til jan of this year you were still posting asking for help and getting it. nice to see your true colors cowboy .

mike, your post is so absurd there is no point in replying to it.
 
#17 ·
LOL,If thats your reply ,heres an example and if you want I'll go back and copy and paste the responses including yours...
I asked about the wet sand paper grits like P400 and what its equivalent would have been before the new system came out, maybe a conversion chart.....
All the responses were about how to sand and how every member there sanded and what grits THEY used. One member with a well stroked ego even stated he had no need to block with 400 (I guess because he was SO good) the point is, everyone jumped in and explained the proper way to sand according to them ...no one answered the question (maybe because none of them with the exception of you ,were around when the system changed) I ended up getting the chart right here at HR.
They may be helpful to a newbie but its been my experience that theres ALWAYS several ways to do every job....thinking there is only one way to do a job....now thats absurd. I compare it to H.A.M.B and how they all think alike
 
#18 ·
Omni Epoxy

I have personally used the Omni epoxy primer after switching from regular PPG DP40 (at that time). While the Omni epoxy is suppose to be close to regular DP, it is not. We used it in the shop for about one and a half years, and actually at that time, had a few cars come back for peel due to the epoxy primer. I threw the rest in the garbage and went back to regular PPG DP. Never had another issue. After finding out about SPI's epoxy, I am going to call them and get me some of that stuff. I am sold on PPG DP, and we have done several tests using it over the past twenty years or so. One test was we sprayed some black iron, threw it outside the shop and left it. We would pick it up from time to time and check it out. Five years later that DP was still on the part protecting it from rust (corrosion). This was through harse winters too. DP reminds me of the product (Zinc Chromate Primer)we used when I was with the USAF as a Airframe repairman. Even smells the same. I would never use Omni epoxy again. I will be trying SPI's epoxy though.
 
#21 ·
I have used the Omni epoxy primer (MP171) before. I didn't have any trouble with it spraying. Maybe because the temperature was in the 80's. I did have a problem with sanding it. But I found out the longer you waited it would sand better. The product info sheet says the drying time is 15 minutes. I see the induction time is the same. I let mine sit at least 30 minutes before spraying. The pot life was 8 hrs. I always sprayed 2 coats. I have tried the SPI also. I was surprised how good the panels looked after spraying. It looked as if they were sprayed with white paint instead of primer. They were smooth feeling when dry. Man! I just noticed how old these post were.
 
#22 ·
I love reading these old posts .
Im still using SPI epoxy and as time always tells everything I said in my posts still holds true. Although I have tried rinsing my Ospho and it also works, I still prefer sanding it before priming even though its a lot more work. It just works better for me.
Barry STILL don't know what a manicure is and still answers the phone when I call for some straight information sometimes I just call to say hello and tell him how much I appreciate him and his products.
Asshats are still asshats and my car still aint done. but the ospho and SPI epoxy I did on it 10 yrs ago its still holding tight. The test of time tells all.
 
#23 ·
Hello all. Just joined Hot Rodders as a result of this thread. I was searching for info on PPG epoxy primer. Deadbodyman, I have been playing around with Ospho as well as Eastwood afterblast. I may be PM'ing you for your thoughts on effective usage. I'll log on with my PC some time soon and add some info about my current and past projects. Easier to type than on my phone!
 
#24 ·
PM me any time.
I've found that a few of the main reasons people have trouble with Ospho is
#1 they just spray it on and walk away.
#2 no scrubbing.
#3 no wiping off. a sure way to screw it up. remember this stuff dries and the more you leave on the harder it is to get off. So wipe off all the access and let a thin coating dry and your good to go until your ready prep for epoxy.
PPG hasn't made a good epoxy primer since DP-40 look into SPI epoxy primer its amazing primer.
 
#25 ·
Thanks. The only reason I haven't ordered SPI yet is the supposed benefit of using one line of paint from the bottom up. Supposed warranty, etc. I called Axalta, and the tech guy said Nason or Chromax would work for me bit stick with one or the other. Don't mix. My local Axalta store only stocks Transtar epoxy, so that doesn't make me feel good. Thus, I was considering seeing what the Place that sells PPG sells. I always do research before going to a paint store so i can know as much or more than they do about what they try to sell me. I'm about ready to go with SPI.
 
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