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-   -   PPG Epoxy Primer (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ppg-epoxy-primer-215311.html)

1putt 02-24-2012 05:01 PM

PPG Epoxy Primer
 
Does anyone know what the difference between the Omni MP 170 Epoxy Primer vs the DPLF other than of course more than twice the price.

I am getting ready to prime sandblasted parts.

Thanks

Old Fool 02-25-2012 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1putt
Does anyone know what the difference between the Omni MP 170 Epoxy Primer vs the DPLF other than of course more than twice the price.

I am getting ready to prime sandblasted parts.

Thanks

No idea, SPI epoxy is my choice $20.20 a sprayable qt. when purchased in gallons.

1putt 02-25-2012 07:50 AM

Hmmm may need to look into that one instead. The PPG DP50LF was $90/qt with the cat-thought that was a little high.

67Elcamino 02-25-2012 07:51 AM

I do notice a huge Gap in Epoxy primers.. from close to $100 a quart to $40 a quart.

Is cheap Epoxy better than no Epoxy? If SPI is as good as they say that is a killer deal and wish I would of started that route when I began my project.

I believe there was a previous post where someone stated that once cured you can swipe with Laquer thinner to test the quality?

deadbodyman 02-25-2012 08:07 AM

I havent used the OMINI epoxy but I have used the DP 40 which seemed pretty good at the time.choosing an epoxy is very important because everything else relys on it (like the foundation of a house) If it aint right ,nothing else will be right....if your just doing a used car to sell mabee the omini epoxy will get you by but if its anything like the paint ,just barly....go with a quality epoxy if you want it to last....money well spent..
over the years I've used many kinds of epoxy and about 5-6 yrs ago I stumbled onto this SPI epoxy everyone is raving about now days...
There is NO better epoxy on this planet..for those that cant just pick some up and have to order it ,Its well worth the wait,even I would wait for it to come in the mail,its that good...fortunately all I gotta do is make a call and its delivered to my door....Other than SPI universal clear ,these are the ONLY products of ALL the products I use at my shop that I would even concider ordering through the mail and WILL NOT SUBSTITUTE.....
OK,Three products I cant do without but I'm not supposed to use SPI and Ospho in the same sentance.... :sweat:

1putt 02-25-2012 08:20 AM

Uh oh the Ospho word.

OK here we go- I sandblasted some front grille parts for the 1959 chevy truck I am starting. Brought them home and evenly sponged ospho on them. I then took one of the parts and rinsed it with water and dried it. Flash rust occured right away so I reapplied ospho.

Is this the correct way to use OSPHO i.e. put it on and leave on without rinsing? the directions on the container do not say anything about rinsing but they have a mild warning about testing use with epoxy products.

On the other hand the PPG DX520 cleaner which is a phosphoric acid states to rinse the item and prime the same day.

Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?

Thanks everyone

Old Fool 02-25-2012 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1putt
Hmmm may need to look into that one instead. The PPG DP50LF was $90/qt with the cat-thought that was a little high.


Quote:

Originally Posted by 67Elcamino
I do notice a huge Gap in Epoxy primers.. from close to $100 a quart to $40 a quart.

Is cheap Epoxy better than no Epoxy? If SPI is as good as they say that is a killer deal and wish I would of started that route when I began my project.

I believe there was a previous post where someone stated that once cured you can swipe with Laquer thinner to test the quality?

SPI is THE epoxy as far as I am concerned. As with any product use it properly, follow the manufacturers recommendations.

SPI ships FREE to your doorstep if you do not have a local distributor.
A little mentioned product is their urethane reducers. They are made from virgin ingrediants and are superior to any other reducers I have used. The cost is far easier on my wallet too.

Check out their pricing @ http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm.. And remember always compare pricing of paints as sprayable quanities as the mixing differences make it hard to compare otherwise.

deadbodyman 02-25-2012 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1putt
Hmmm may need to look into that one instead. The PPG DP50LF was $90/qt with the cat-thought that was a little high.

Well dont forget ,Those CEO's gotta go all over the world to get thier nails manicured and the goat vomit fascials,then theres the golf coarse's None of that comes cheap ...That may be why if you have a problem using PPG or Dupont You can never get one on the phone to answear any questions or care much about quality and competition...
On the other hand I've called SPI mabee 50 times in the past 5yrs and every time the owner (Barry) answeard and shared his knowlage...
And I've seen his hands and trust me I dont think he even knows what a manicure is......My kind of guy and a great company....

Old Fool 02-25-2012 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1putt
Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?

Thanks everyone


Yes it is compatible with PPG colors.

The very best thing about SPI is Barry publishes his cell number so you can call and ask any question you have about his products and get the straight answer.

deadbodyman 02-25-2012 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1putt
Uh oh the Ospho word.

OK here we go- I sandblasted some front grille parts for the 1959 chevy truck I am starting. Brought them home and evenly sponged ospho on them. I then took one of the parts and rinsed it with water and dried it. Flash rust occured right away so I reapplied ospho.

Is this the correct way to use OSPHO i.e. put it on and leave on without rinsing? the directions on the container do not say anything about rinsing but they have a mild warning about testing use with epoxy products.

On the other hand the PPG DX520 cleaner which is a phosphoric acid states to rinse the item and prime the same day.

Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?

Thanks everyone

see ,I knew I shouldnt have mentioned it. You dont rinse or neutralize Ospho just let it dry 24 hrs (theres a little more to it) and you'll never see surface rust again on bare metal...and yes,SPI epoxy and Ospho work extremly well together...
everything you need to know about ospho is in the "ospho solution" thread here at HR just do a search it'll pop right up.
SPI epoxy also works with every kind of paint we use in the auto industry..anything I've ever used anyway

1putt 02-25-2012 09:00 AM

I read that thread and there seemed to be some conflicting statements and why I was getting a bit confused.

Nevertheless, I am taking that direction. I have applied OSPHO and will let it dry at least 24 hours-kept inside and will probably spray the primer next weekend. Will look into the SPI sounds like the way to go.

What do you mean there's a little more to it on the Ospho subject?

shine 02-25-2012 09:28 AM

i would suggest you go and read this .

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?8-What-every-new-painter-must-read!

mitmaks 02-25-2012 10:52 AM

PPG paint is overpriced. You can get more for your money with other brands ie SPI, sherwin williams, etc.

deadbodyman 02-25-2012 11:54 AM

Other than using the Ospho you pretty much did everything wrong and WILL have a problem later.....The "improper" use of acid products is THE #1 cause of paint failures......PM me and I'll run through the procedure...a tried and true procedure that's served me well for over 25 yrs. and thats an open invitation to anyone that wants to try it to remove rust or protect bare metal from surface rust.

For the most part the spi site is a bunch of PAINTERS playing follow the leader...just mention Ospho and every single one will jump on you and none of them have actually used it..... properly anyways....It is an SPI "USER" site
started by users...almost a religion.check it out.... with a grain of salt....

anyone that hasn't used Ospho (specifically) should probably give their fingers a rest...when they start saying how it has to be neutralized,it wont work with SPI epoxy or Bla bla bla,etc, I know for a fact they haven't used it..they just confuse the issue with misinformation....they do sound like they know what they're talking about and a few even have as much experiance as me (since 75)...so I understand all the confusion..a few even had me wondering if somehow I was wrong and I've just been lucky for 25yrs and hundreds of cars,so did all the tests everyone suggested and a few of my own ,It passed every one....As much as I love SPI epoxy and universal clear,they'll always be my second favorite product, I just cant do without the Ospho...SPI as a company however ,IS #1 there's simply none better in this business....I dont play politics I just call it like I see it...

HVAC Phil 02-26-2012 04:28 AM

I'm a rookie, i've used the PPG and Omni epoxy. They suck compared to the SPI. Try sanding the PPG stuff after a MONTH, it will gum up just like you sprayed it 2hrs ago. No matter what you do, PPG will not lay smooth, even if you reduce it twice what it calls for, still peely. SPI, lays smooth, sands super easy.

As far as the SPI site that Deadbodyman refferred to, it is tough to post over there. I made one comment about how a "dealer painter" did a hack job on a friends car, they jumped all over me, PM'd me about it. All i was saying that if you don't take pride in your work, don't do it just to make a buck. Makes all the others in the business "seem" like hacks to others outside the business. It stereotypes "all" painters which, isn't true. Now if i have an SPI question, i just call Barry directly. He is always helpful and guides you thru the process.


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