PPG Expert needed.... - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2005, 08:58 AM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
or Jeff, or Doc, or...

Last journal entry: Results of the Camaro
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Syracuse, NY-well, just North
Age: 54
Posts: 988
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
PPG Expert needed....

To settle a brotherly battle, I need 2 answers from those that KNOW PPG products inside and out.

Vehicle: 73 Z-28 w/ Goodmark Quarters, OEM balance of car. Taking car to bare metal to get rid of 2 previous paint jobs.

Problem #1:
Goodmark quarters- Can they be immediately topcoated with DF50LF w/401 or do they need to have the "E-coat" sanded off. PPG "P" sheet says its ok as long as the ecoat is not truley a thermo platic coat. IS goodmark true Ecoat or Thermoplastic coat? (My brother already shot them, prior to hanging them on the car. Local PPG Paint distributer made no mention of it to him)

Problem #2
Again, we're dealing with a PPG "preferred distributer"...and I DO NOT know the conversations that transpired, so , that being said... My brother was told he could use the DP50LF as a highbuild primer as well.

This doesn't sound right to me, as it will be a S.O.B. to block out.

Using the PPG line, it is MY understanding that we should proceed as follows:
(After verification of Ecoat situation-possibly sand rear quarters and reshoot DP50LF)

1.) Scuff up existing DP50LF with 320, especially surrounding welds from quarterpanels. Level any runs or roughness from original coat. Sand existing paint off (2 previous colors)
2.) Reshoot whole car with DP50LF
3.) Apply any Bondo as required, and level
4.) Shoot high build primer such as DZ3 Kondar. (or K-38? If K-38 is sanded too thin, lifting may occur-as stated in "P" sheet)
5.) Block out, reshoot DZ3 /block till level
6.) Shoot jambs and under hood/trunk with final color/clear (bc/cc)
7.) Main Color coat with doors/trunk/hood installed (no booth)

He was told to use the DP50LF again for step 4/5. Are they trying to torture him (and me) or did something get lost in translation?

Thanks guys-

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2005, 10:01 AM
theHIGHLANDER's Avatar
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: S.E. Mich
Age: 59
Posts: 214
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The DP epoxys offer good corrosion resistance...that's it. Definately DO NOT use as a surfacer. You're right, it totally sucks for blocking. The old non-LF line was also a decent sealer, but no longer now that it's lead free. Too much shrinkage, especially over bodywork.

To keep it simple just red pad anything you want to do any further applications over. As far as primers, we routinely use K-36. Our rep wants us to try K-38. I feel that the very LEAST possible mat'l used the better the outcome. I never have been a big fan of any high build primers...seems like a crutch for pisspoor blocking of fillers or poor metal work. In rough areas to work over like firewalls, inners, etc, a nice smooth coat of DP anything works well as a non-sanding adhesion promoter. It has a 3-5 day window of re-coat w/out sanding.

Kondar is very "old school" primer. It holds moisture, has poor adhesion, and I've more than once had it show me actual rust after wet blocking. This was weeks after the final finish was applied. The DZ's were too much of a good thing. Acrylic fortified nitro based primer. Keep the work good and smooth, block very well, use the least amount of primers/sealers possible. The only reason to seal is to prevent exessive solvent penetration on heavy primers/fillers. A good sealer is the same base being used, I.E. if you are using a red you cold effectively "seal" with a white base, allow to dry, block it out with say 5-600 wet then go to your final coat. I hope this was helpful.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Q-jet expert advice needed: calibration suggestion please! Berliner Bel Air Engine 1 10-18-2004 06:47 AM
Spark Plug expert needed :-) x007 Engine 6 09-07-2004 06:34 AM
expert advice needed.... sglig Interior 8 03-31-2003 07:22 AM
Big Block piston gas ports, expert help needed deuce_454 Engine 3 12-14-2002 03:28 PM
Expert on TPIs and TBIs needed 67' BoleroCam Engine 10 11-15-2002 01:50 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:15 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.