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Old 03-05-2008, 12:57 PM
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PPG Omni Basecoat/Clearcoat

Hi everyone, I am in the process of ordering paint to paint my 1967 Camaro. I have been reading posts in the forum. I talked to a sales rep from a local Auto Parts store this morning. I told him the paint on my car is in good shape but I have a dent where a kid hit it with a golf ball. I also am having trouble with rust causing the paint to bubble on the roof. I plan on stripping the roof and spaying with Eastwoods rust converter and rust encapsulator. I was planning on wet sanding the rest of the car and spaying the whole car with a sealer. Then spraying with a urethane 2K primer so i could block sand. Now he says I don't need the 2K primer to paint over the sealer with PPG's Omni line of Basecoat/ Clearcoat. He sells a kit that includes everything I need. I would like to have the opinions of people with experience using this line of paint. I am planning to paint when the weather gets warmer by then I will have finished the body Prep. By the way I am painting GM bright red WA8774. I am waiting on your replies.

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Old 03-05-2008, 01:24 PM
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If you are doing any kind of body work you will need the 2k primer as sealer does exactly what it says..seals. It will not fill like 2k primer will to get the bodywork the rest of the way straight. Although i have learned on hotrodders.com that there is a sealer that fills too but i have not tried it so i cant tell you how it works. I would use the 2k to get everything straight by blocking and then reseal and paint. I didn't know you could still get omni, over here they now call ppgs low line paint ...shop line. Although it seems to be the same thing. I have use omni base clear on some cheap street jobs and it work pretty good for what u pay for it.
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Old 03-05-2008, 01:40 PM
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lets cut it up

I read your reply, thanks. Let me get this right. After I finish all my body work do I seal it or prime it with 2K. Block sand then seal again. I want a good deep gloss shine if this PPG Omni won't do this can you recommend something else?
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdminter55
I read your reply, thanks. Let me get this right. After I finish all my body work do I seal it or prime it with 2K. Block sand then seal again. I want a good deep gloss shine if this PPG Omni won't do this can you recommend something else?

If your looking for a nice job and your car is straight and has good paint on it already then you can get away with 2k just where your bodywork is. If it were me..This just what I would do if it were mine and the car was in the condition I stated above. I would derust that roof sand down the whole car, do the body work . then i would seal the whole car with an epoxy sealer (DuPonts dtm or ppg's dp 90,but there are other good products out there,this just what i use) depending on the epoxy used I would prime the car in 2k after the correct flash times of the epoxy using the same brand 2k as the epoxy. Put two good coats on and let it cure. Block it out and go to paint if straight enough. As for as paint recommendations, that depends on your budget. I use Dupont and PPG mostly but it is pricey. On my cars I like 7900clear over chromabase for a nice street job. and for higher end stuff I like the 72500 clear and chromapremier. On the PPG side I like Deltron 2000 (dbc it think it can be called too) Base Coat and 2021 clear. But you will spend some good bucks on that stuff. Also If your doing a color that is not pearl or metallic you can go Single stage Acrylic enamel or urethane and you don't have to clear. But you have to fit what You use into your price range. After you spray your base clear then you can cut and buff it and enjoy. Just my opinion Tim
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:09 PM
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Hello if you plan on using the omni which i have and it is pretty good for the price .But i would advise that you get enough so that you have a little left over, because when it comes to color match it isnt the best for touch ups or blends.This way you will have the same batch to do any touch ups without any problems. Good luck
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:57 PM
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Ive painted omni bases, they spray good.
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:42 AM
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When you paint make sure the paint store will be open.Omni doesn't cover as good as the better paints, and you may need more paint to finish the job. My brother used it on his 1972 chev truck and it came out good, but had to run and get more paint.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:13 AM
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Well first off, you are a long way from "ordering paint". You have a lot of work to do before you need it, and paint can be "ordered" and received in about ten minutes, so you don't need to be buying any paint right now. You have a long trec to travel before you need it and things may change, you will learn a lot before you get to the paint and you may change your mind on the brand paint or color, so hold off buying the paint.

First thing is removing all the chrome trim. Second would be to tackle that roof. There are no magic potions and when I see "rust encapsulator" I cringe. Most of these products are just fine for chassis parts and stuff like that. But for something that will be painted and cleared like a body panel, I am sorry but I just don't go there. Do a search on this site for a thread named "Secrets of rust removal revealed".

Forget about all the sealers and wet sanding and all. Just focus on one thing at a time, starting with the roof. Post some photos, you want to do this roof rust RIGHT, slow down and get more info on it.

Then you can fix that golf ball dent, and spot prime it.

There is NO REASON WHAT SO EVER to prime the whole car if the paint is decent that is there. All you are doing is building up material making it more chip prone. If you were to fix the roof, fix the dents here and there and spot prime them with urethane primer (commonly called "2K" even though EVERY primer with a hardener including epoxy IS a "2K" so I like to call it "urethane") and "surface" these areas that were worked and then sand the whole car and seal and shoot it, wet on wet.

OR, you could "seal" it with epoxy primer and then sand it and paint it.

But really, we need to know more about the car, photos are nice. Is the car repainted? Where is the roof rusting? Did it once have a vinyl top?

Brian
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Well first off, you are a long way from "ordering paint". You have a lot of work to do before you need it, and paint can be "ordered" and received in about ten minutes, so you don't need to be buying any paint right now. You have a long trec to travel before you need it and things may change, you will learn a lot before you get to the paint and you may change your mind on the brand paint or color, so hold off buying the paint.

First thing is removing all the chrome trim. Second would be to tackle that roof. There are no magic potions and when I see "rust encapsulator" I cringe. Most of these products are just fine for chassis parts and stuff like that. But for something that will be painted and cleared like a body panel, I am sorry but I just don't go there. Do a search on this site for a thread named "Secrets of rust removal revealed".

Forget about all the sealers and wet sanding and all. Just focus on one thing at a time, starting with the roof. Post some photos, you want to do this roof rust RIGHT, slow down and get more info on it.

Then you can fix that golf ball dent, and spot prime it.

There is NO REASON WHAT SO EVER to prime the whole car if the paint is decent that is there. All you are doing is building up material making it more chip prone. If you were to fix the roof, fix the dents here and there and spot prime them with urethane primer (commonly called "2K" even though EVERY primer with a hardener including epoxy IS a "2K" so I like to call it "urethane") and "surface" these areas that were worked and then sand the whole car and seal and shoot it, wet on wet.

OR, you could "seal" it with epoxy primer and then sand it and paint it.

But really, we need to know more about the car, photos are nice. Is the car repainted? Where is the roof rusting? Did it once have a vinyl top?

Brian


You have a very good point...He needs to slow down and take this one step at a time. Although I don't agree with some of the things you have said in your post you have said the most important thing ...slow down. It would be nice to see some pic as I am wondering if the whole car doesn't need to be stripped being that it is a 67 camaro but maybe not. I am not a fan of rust quick fixes either. But I have to say Cdminter55 was asking specific questions about Omni and if he needed 2K filler primer or not. Tim
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:56 PM
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One thing that you have to look out for when using an Epoxy primer over bodywork is lifting of the filler. It's best to epoxy prime and then do your bodywork. An etching primer such as DuPont's Vari-Prime is an excellent primer to spray over a rusted area after sanding and getting rid of the rust. You can easily use a 2K primer over Vari-Prime and then spray the sealer after blocking and wetsanding. Vari-Prime and Epoxy primer can help in preventing the rust from ever reoccurring.
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