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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 06:09 PM
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I recommend using Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes.Their basecoat is very easy to spray,flashes quickly,if using the right basecoat stabilzer.They have developed some new clears,CC930,CC950 and CC939.These are great High Solids clears and are very easy to spray.You are going to get different opinions about etch vs. epoxy.Both are good systems.Normally,if you use an etch primer,it should be done in a wet on wet (WOW) situation.This provides maximum adhesion.Just be sure to follow recommended flash times and dry times.I read alot on here about guys telling you to wet sand everything.If you read any technical data sheet(TDS),they usally recommend to dry sand with 400 or finer,depending on if you seal or not before topcoating.3M has some really good sandpaper out now.Hookit 2 for your D.A sander,and also in file board paper from 36grit all the way to 3000 grit paper.Some of you guys should try there new buffing system.It is called Perfect-it 3000.It will by far outshine the old fashion way of wetsanding and drying method. Just my .02 worth.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 06:09 PM
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Kay thanks for all the replies guys, Does anyone know how much of each type of paint I need? I dont wanna go overboard here, I'm broke and since there is very little moisture where i live and we dont use salt on the roads I'm gonna keep this to a minimum. Will 1 gallon sprayable (2 quarts + 2 quarts) or epoxy or etch be enough to go underneath my 2k stuff? There isnt a lot of gouges on the metal its in decent shape. Then 1 gallon and one quart sprayable of 2k, the one gallon of base, and one gallon of clear?

Oh and what is a wet on wet situation?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 06:14 PM
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i think that is ennough, i used only 3 quarts of spi epoxy on my car, 1 1/2 of each can, i used 1 gallon of high build primer, havent gotten to color yet, but i think 1 gal should be ennough
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:15 PM
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A wet on wet situation means this. You apply you etching primer over your substrate(bare metal).Apply 2-3 medium wet coats.This will acheive hiding and proper film build.Allow to flash hand slick or per manufacturer's reccomendations.Once this is done,apply your urethane primer 2-3 coats with proper flash time between each coat.This is a WOW situation.Ask your paint store for technical data sheets on each product you are spraying.It tells you EVERYTHING you need to know about each product.Hope this helps.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:18 PM
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2 qts of RTS(readt to spray) will be plenty...! gallon means you will have alot left over.Remember,etching primer does not provide any build,just provides a good base for the urethane primer to hold on to.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:26 PM
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2 Quarts, kay I think I will skip the epoxy but here is why i think:
Im going to have to spray over some old laquor/enamel paint (very small amounts) that i cant get at and they say epoxy likes to bond only to metal. Second i've got to do bondo work, so i spray etch and then let it flash then do my bondo over it. I'm thinking if i spray etch it'll help convert a little bit of rust if there is any microscopic stuff there, plus it seems cheaper then the epoxy. I just dont see the benefits of epoxy?
The guys who are selling me this etch primer are telling me it is a sealer as well? I don't believe them though? Is this true?

Thanks
Mark
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 06:36 PM
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No,etch is NOT a sealer...it etches...hence the name. If you are going to be spraying over some laq. be careful because the etch might cause it to lift. Etching primer is only to be used over a bare substrate(steel,aluminum etc.)You really to need to do all your plastic filler work first,before you etch prime it. Etch will not convert rust nor stop it. The substrate should be free of ANY contaminents,including rust.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:44 PM
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Okay, so heres what im gonna do if you could correct anything that would be awsome:

-Strip to bare metal as much as possible (98%) with 80 grit on sander, then clean it with degreaser until i can lick it and not taste nothing but sweet sweet steel.

-Spray everything with epoxy primer (2 quarts sprayable)

-Then do my bondo work over the epoxy asap. Then sand the bondo smoothe then clean all the sanding dust off

-Then spray my 2k primer and sand to say 800 grit

-Spray Base, then spray clear

What do you think?
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipp121
Okay, so heres what im gonna do if you could correct anything that would be awsome:

-Strip to bare metal as much as possible (98%) with 80 grit on sander, then clean it with degreaser until i can lick it and not taste nothing but sweet sweet steel.

-Spray everything with epoxy primer (2 quarts sprayable)

-Then do my bondo work over the epoxy asap. Then sand the bondo smoothe then clean all the sanding dust off

-Then spray my 2k primer and sand to say 800 grit

-Spray Base, then spray clear

What do you think?
Strip-yes
Epoxy?- thought you were goning to use etch...I prefer etch
body work- over bare metal only
2K primer-yes ,over etch primer AFTER doing body work
Block sand primer-start with 220 and finish with 400...dry
are you going to block and reprime or block and paint?
spray base-are you going to seal? you don't have to,but you can
clear-after proper flash time for the basecoat
licling the metal-only after adding a little salt.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:58 PM
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Hehehe, well the only reason i thought of epoxy was that the etch might lift up some of my old paint, plust i can do my bondo over the epoxy without worrying about rust forming underneath? So maybe there is a magical epoxy/etch in one?

Maybe I'll block and seal, then paint.

Everything else sounds peachy
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipp121
Hehehe, well the only reason i thought of epoxy was that the etch might lift up some of my old paint, plust i can do my bondo over the epoxy without worrying about rust forming underneath? So maybe there is a magical epoxy/etch in one?

Maybe I'll block and seal, then paint.

Everything else sounds peachy
Sherwin-Williams epoxy primer NP 75 with activator NH77.
mixing ratio 5 parts primer-2 parts activator and 1 part reducer.
Hope this helps!
Catch you on the "flip"side
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Old 07-14-2005, 08:58 PM
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Heheh thats pun-itry at its finest
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 09:24 PM
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i prefer omni
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 09:27 PM
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cool.............
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2005, 09:32 PM
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I smell a S&W rep.
Use the epoxy,Whoever's, and it will go over any existing left over "whatever" fine. It will seal the "whatever's left" and be a great base to work from.
No lifting issues like with etch,another reason NOT to use ETCHING primer.
This stuff is SO old school it's like people STILL wanting to use lacquer primer anymore.
Example.
A guy had a car covered with lacquer primer and various stages of OEM paint and was a MESS.
Cheap out for him was to 80 the car and EPOXY it completly. This sealed the crap left and gave a good SOLID base for me to work over without working MY butt off. Paint job was Omni and it took 3 coats for good coverage and turned out fantastic.
IF you use Nason,get 3 qt's color just in case it DOSEN'T cover.
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