Sorry for all the questions guys but my situation has changed again! lol I already have the Nason epoxy primer and now someone is giving me enough PPG, Autocolor, to paint the jambs bc/cc in the correct color so....
Does anyone know if the two are compatible?
Should I use a sealer over the epoxy before painting? And if so, which brand?
Don't quite understand the "wet on wet" sealer thing....could I just do that with the Nason and then apply the PPG base?
Thanks!
Peggy

I will be following the answers you get closely as I have a similar situation.

I am planning a HoK Kandy job for my Chevy, but as HoK products are only now being introduced into South Africa, I couldn't get the HoK epoxy primer I wanted in time. The car was rusting every three days so I had to shoot something.

I bought the best (and turned out the be the most expensive) epoxy primer I could find which was a locally manufactured brand called ChemSpec, and now I just have to hope I can seal with HoK KoSeal and apply my HoK basecoat, kandy and clear without future problems.

I have been told by the guys in the know that it should be fine, so I would have thought you are safe too.

Rich

You are safe, I have done that exact combo many times over the years.

I would apply a sealer over the scuffed and properly cleaned epoxy primer. PPG K36 or K38 when used with the proper activator functions as a sealer.

Vince

Not an issue at all, any primer, base will go over that epoxy and totally compatible.

You will be going back-wards if you use k36 as a sealer over the epoxy.
There is no need and just be excess mils and a waste of money.
If the epoxy has set more than 7 days, sand and spray whatever you wish over it, if its been a month or more I would sand the epoxy and spray another coat of epoxy to be safe.

Just to make sure I'm understanding this.....no sealer is necessary?

I haven't put the epoxy on yet. Was going to shoot it this afternoon but it looks like we have rain coming in tonight so I may have to wait until it's cleared up again. Could be a couple of days but then I should be able to shoot the epoxy, the base color, and the clear within their respective recoat windows.....I'd rather be shot than have to scuff those hinges again! lol

No sealer is required over epoxy, epoxy alone provides about the best solvent barrier IMO. If the epoxy reaches full cure you'll need to sand or scuff it for texture.

Your just doing the jambs,right?
They shouldn't need any real finess finishing(2k primer/blocking) as long as they are straigth and clean. Unless your wanting a perfect finish compaired to the outside.
As long as you haven't passed the 7 day recoat window on the epoxy your good to go. I personally would wait a day before shooting the color over the epoxy just for shrinkage sake. That way you get to see all the dings & scratch's ya missed. Epoxy is a good magnifier too of any other imperfections you may have missed. You'll be surprised.

Thanks!! No sealer is good news to me! One less chance for me to screw this up.
You are probably right. I may be surprised at how little I like the look of what I've done when I get the epoxy on. I really don't expect the jambs to be perfect but I just hate it when door jambs look as though they were painted by a blind man with a 4" brush. Since it's a color change my main goal is simply to make it difficult for the casual observer to realize the car hasn't always been that shade so, popping paint around the base of the hinge pins is a no-no.
Hoping to shoot the epoxy Sunday and the rest on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes.