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Old 08-10-2008, 03:24 PM
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ppg primers etc.

PPG K38 vs PPG NCP 280? I have already started using a gallon of ncp 280. A restoration friend believes that it will eventually shrink up and that he recomends building layers of k38. I am also am letting the panels sit and cure for long periods of time since it is a big project ('68 Vista Cruiser) and am only working on it on weekends. After filling on bare metal I have been initially priming with DP50LF. I was told by a Finishmaster rep that I can follow DP50LF after 30 minutes with NCP 280 so that I don't have to sand the hard epoxy. Any thoughts on switching to K38 or anything else discussed? Also some of the lead joints are cracked or distorted. What is a good cold lead alternative? I have some USC ALL METAL. The last issue is primer weather protection. Since the car is so big it lives under covers out side during the process. How might this affect the choice in primer. I live in southern CA.
Thanks, Al

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Old 08-10-2008, 09:05 PM
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The PPG NCP 280 primer doesn't get talked about very much but is the best value when used correctly...

Your friend is wrong about it shrinking period, ...

It can be thinned with acetone but just a little..
When mixed with it's 285 hardner you got less than half an hour to get it sprayed and clean the gun so be ready to move.

It is a self leveling primer and each additional coat needs to go on within 5 to 8 minutes so it can reflow into it'self...

Here's a thread that is not grammer perfect but will help,,,
http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...6&page=1&pp=20
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Last edited by milo; 08-10-2008 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 08-11-2008, 08:57 PM
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body seam

Thanks Milo. What do you recommend as a cold substitute for replacing the lead in a factory seam? All Metal? Marglass?

Thanks, Al
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:26 PM
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Your solution for the seam is going too be to use the fiberglass strand type bondo and then top the last 1/8 inch with *Thin Ice*.. It stays flexable a long time and will not shrink either..
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:46 PM
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I agree with Milo on the fiberglass reinforced fillers on these seams. I like the short strand fillers like Everglass, Glass-lite, Marglass, Duraglass. Also welding the seam completely closed is a good idea and spraying the inside of the seam down with a cavity wax after the job is done help keep corrosion from working on the inside.
When I strip these old cars I find most all of the factory leaded seams have rust under the lead and crawling out of the seams.
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:12 PM
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You can mix regular bondo in with the strand type bondo up to 50% or so to "thin" it and make it easier to handle and spread...
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