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Old 04-17-2012, 05:53 PM
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Pre-oiling a SBC

I am getting getting to start up a 327. The engine was started and broken in by the engine builder 6 months ago.

The engine builder said that I should pre-oil the engine prior to start up since I would not be able to install the engine for several months.

I am trying to pre-oil the engine and am using a priming tool from OEM part #27060. I am using a 1/2 inch electric drill to power the tool. The oil pressure shows 50 lbs. on the oil pressure gauge but after three minutes of priming I still do not have oil at the lifters.

Do I need to just keep running the drill for a longer period of time? I have rotated the engine several times and ran the drill at each stopping point.

My assumption is that just because I show pressure on the gauge that merely the indication of pressure is not sufficient and I need to see oil at the lifters.

Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated------Mark

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Old 04-17-2012, 08:51 PM
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What weight oil is in the engine?
Have you tried running drill motor the opposite direction?
You're SURE the priming tool is engaged with oil pump shaft?(you should feel some heavy resistance when drill is spinning)
I wouldNOT fire it until oil is coming up out of pushrods on to rockers.
6sally6
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:19 PM
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you won't get oil in the push rods until you crank the motor.
pull the coil lead off and crank the motor, you will have oil flying all over right away
oil pump floods the lifter gallery and the lifters pump the oil up thru the push rods to the rocker arms
this is why some motors clatter the valve train upon start up, the lifters need to pump up
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:20 AM
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wellllllll......

The ones I've done....I get oil out of the push rods BEFORE I spin the engine. That's why they call it priming!
Fill everything with oil BEFORE subjecting cam and crank/w rings with no EVIDENCE of oil flow.

"You can get the heater hot faster if you rev the day lights out of the engine too....but that's not how it should be done."

Maybe I'm being too picky but I want to SEE oil from the farther-est point in the engine(oil pan to rocker arms) THEN I know the oil system is full/primed.
6sally6
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:35 AM
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MrPate

Did you verify that all the galley plugs were installed. Both front and rear, as well as the driver side cylinder head deck and the cross drill near the center-front of the intake manifold? Since you have pressure, I've gotta believe the drill it engaged and turning in the right direction. Where do you have the gauge connected? At the port near the distributor? Have you tried running the drill, and having a friend SLOWLY rotate the crankshaft at the same time?

Pat
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpate
I am getting getting to start up a 327. The engine was started and broken in by the engine builder 6 months ago.

The engine builder said that I should pre-oil the engine prior to start up since I would not be able to install the engine for several months.

I am trying to pre-oil the engine and am using a priming tool from OEM part #27060. I am using a 1/2 inch electric drill to power the tool. The oil pressure shows 50 lbs. on the oil pressure gauge but after three minutes of priming I still do not have oil at the lifters.

Do I need to just keep running the drill for a longer period of time? I have rotated the engine several times and ran the drill at each stopping point.

My assumption is that just because I show pressure on the gauge that merely the indication of pressure is not sufficient and I need to see oil at the lifters.

Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated------Mark
Hydraulic and some solid lifters use an internal valve called an inertia-valve. This will only meter oil to the pushrod when at the same time there is oil pressure and camshaft motion. Sometimes with one person rotating the crankshaft with a wrench and another running the primer tool, you can get enough inertia build up in the lifters to actuate the valve, sometimes not.

Sometimes the valves will leak a little and feed oil to the push rod without any motion imparted from the cam. This kind of leakage is more common with anti-pump up lifters but is not unique to them.

Since you've run the tool and achieved oil pressure it's fair to assume the engine is prelubed. For the top end, with a oil gun shoot the pushrod to lifter fit, the trunnion's and valve stem to lifter tip then fire it. Stand by with the oil gun while watching for flow to start from the pushrods.

Bogie
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:19 PM
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I may be mistaken but I don't think all the priming tools will supply oil to the top end just the mains and rods. I use an old distributor housing.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:29 PM
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Update.

Yes, the galley plugs are installed and I am reading the pressure at the plug by the distributor.

The drill I am using is running at 900 rpms. Ran the pre oiling tool today for 5 minutes with the gauge showing approximately 50 lbs. At the 5 minute mark oil began flowing from number 1, then 3, 5 and 7. After about two more minutes 2-8 began to seep oil.

2-8 definitely do not have the oil volume of oil entering the rocker arm.

Is my inability to attain an equivalent flow from 2-8 related to the rpm of my drill or the geometry of the oil passages or perhaps something else?

As Bogie suggested I will have an oil can standing by when I fire the motor this weekend.

This is my first motor and perhaps I am being overly cautious, but for the first time I am willing to take a few extra precautions to minimize the risk of problems down the road.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:51 AM
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My opinion is...if it oils...that's good. The oil pump can supply the "slow" rockers.
Free advice......IF possible get a carb you KNOW has worked on a running engine.vs one that's brand new and never supplied fuel.
Make sure the carb bowls are full of fuel.
Double check firing order and wires. (yeah...I know...check'em anyhow.)
FULL battery charge.
Radiator full
Fire exstingusher handy
Fire it OUT SIDE the garage(not inside!)
Check oil level
Confirm absolute TDC with a TDC tool. Mark the balancer.
Advance timing to about 6/8* and leave the hold down bolt loose so you can turn it.
Have a helper....one to crank and the other to work the carb and timing.
I like to spray starting fluid in carb (with butterflys open) BEFORE cranking.
DON'T stick your face over carb while cranking!
6sally6
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:34 PM
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Not all priming tools are alike. If the tool you're using doesn't have the dual rings on the lower part to seal off then the oil wont reach the lifters and rocker arms.
This tool is the one you need to make sure it gets the top also oiled.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:05 PM
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If it ran 6 months ago and it had proper oil then I would not worry about it. A six month period is not long enough to worry about re-priming. My car sits all winter, every winter and I dont prime it every spring.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:58 PM
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i agree with bucket head man

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
If it ran 6 months ago and it had proper oil then I would not worry about it. A six month period is not long enough to worry about re-priming. My car sits all winter, every winter and I dont prime it every spring.
my bucket sits for 6 months during the winter and i never turn it over.. i put it to bed just like it did with my outboard motors.. when i know the last cruise of the yr, i change the oil and run to the cruise. then its beddie by time.. just fire it up in the spring and no problems... ever....
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:52 PM
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An engine that was a fresh build, vs. one that's broken in are certainly not the same situation. With fresh engines needing the cam and lifters, plus rings to breakin, they need a good oiling prior to starting. There's a lot of wear when a new engine or cam first fires up that a older engine doesn't have happen.
I would definitely make sure it's primed properly before firing a freshly built engine.
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:48 AM
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He said the engine was broken in already.

Quote:
I am getting getting to start up a 327. The engine was started and broken in by the engine builder 6 months ago.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:29 PM
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Fired it today and all went well. Absolutely no clatter from the valve train.

Since 2, 4, 6 & 8 did not pump up like the other side as a precaution I used a syringe to provide additional oil to Lifters, pushrods and springs.

The only problem was I installed the distributor 180 degrees out of alignment.

Thanks to who provided recommendations--------Mark
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