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Old 09-23-2011, 01:12 AM
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Prep replacement body parts.

I bought new fenders and front doors for my truck.
Not original, so they will take more work to fit properly...
On these body parts is a thin layer of black paint.
Do I have to remove this layer to the bare sheet metal, or can I leave it on?

Greetings from the Netherlands

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Old 09-23-2011, 04:24 AM
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Wipe with a rag and some lacquer thinner..if it dosent show black on the rag you can sand it with 400g (but don't cut through) and paint straight on there,,If it wipes off with laquer thinner it's not the good stuff and to be safe sand it off with 180g and re coat with as with any bare metal...
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:47 AM
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The "thin layer of black paint" is EDP primer, and I have always been told to leave it on and just scuff it before proceeding.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:22 PM
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I used a towel soaked in thinner and nothing came of it.
So it should be safe to leave it on.

Next I would like to protect the inside of the fenders and the doors with something like POR or RX. There is no rust yet and I want it to stay that way. Wrong or right?
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:42 PM
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I think it makes sense, I coated every part of my new panels that wasn't going to get painted with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (similar to POR). I agree with not wanting rust to start.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spc78
I think it makes sense, I coated every part of my new panels that wasn't going to get painted with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (similar to POR). I agree with not wanting rust to start.
Wasting your time and money. All these products are designed to go over rusty areas. You should just get a can of 3M rubberized undercoating to go on there. It will actually repel stone chips, hold out moisture
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spc78
I think it makes sense, I coated every part of my new panels that wasn't going to get painted with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (similar to POR). I agree with not wanting rust to start.
That's how I think about it to, but as MITKAM states:
Indeed it needs rust to bond and I don't want the rust in there at all.

My concern is the hollow parts, not the under side. I've seen a lot of body coat, that dries out and crackles after aging...
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:50 AM
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Then you are better off with an epoxy primer, it will seal out moisture. You can buy spray wand to spray inside areas that you can't reach with a gun.
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Old 09-24-2011, 06:32 PM
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There are plenty of products out there that are designed to coat and protect the metal, some specifically for areas like the inside of rockers and doors. And just because something is "designed" for rusty areas does not mean it can't be used elsewhere. The one I use actually states it can be used on bare, clean metal.
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Old 09-25-2011, 01:44 AM
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Do you have any name brands?
Preferably available worldwide...
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:42 AM
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The company I purchase all of my "specialized" paint/chemicals from is called Eastwood. They have a product for almost any application, and I believe they ship worldwide.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:41 AM
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Thanks for explaining things to me.
I really love Hodrodders.com
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:03 PM
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I don't know where people come up with this 'needs rust to bond' because POR does not need rust to bond. The bond POR makes to a substrate is a purely physical bond. Thus, brand new metal DA with 80 grit and it will adhere fine.

If it NEEDED rust to bond then what's the trick when painting wood and concrete with it?

'Needs rust' is BS. It's nothing other than a physical bond using their stupid 'Polydigital' patented molecular bonding structure gimmick.

For what it's worth, it's also the claim of POR that it seals out moisture and oxygen.

Finally, I prefer to use epoxy when and where I can. I've used analogs to POR and if it's not put on thick enough it will fail before your project's even completed. Totally not speaking from experience...
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