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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
Whatch You Talkin� �Bout Willis?�

Not everyone is a windbag, nor do they need to impress with lengthy posts.


while some post a page, others post a sentence.
Talking about consideration of those new to the paint game who are looking for use-full information and not interested in what not to do or what won't solve a problem . Their not interested in the personalities but instead the principle. I can't help those who know it all already but when I see short sighted suggestions on a topic I'll post up for the benefit of the newcomer.
And while the contest rolls on...

I too use a 3 stage desiccant dryer on paint hoses as well as a ball filter at the gun..

There are a couple ways water and contaminates can get into the line after water and oil separators even with new desiccant in the canister. The first obvious way is condensation from compressed air in the hose. Depending on the length of the hose when the air in there cools it makes moisture.
Another culprit can be that black rubber from the hose breaking down and passing through the gun. Especially new hoses for some reason. Another way is if the end of the paint hose is allowed to sit in water on the floor between coats or is hit by water when wetting down water activated filters etc, it can wait in the hose coupler and "load" it'self into the gun when the painter hooks it up and then it flies through the gun onto the project.
I suggested the black style ball filter because I have not had a failure with them as I have had with the orange brand but even when the orange ones do fail it is not without warning. You'll see and hear the orange ones getting ready to let go long before they do and it's because it's being pushed way past it's service life.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 03:58 PM
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Like you said - 10x20, and how I painted my '31:



Luckily the compressor and fresh air breathing system were in the house basement. The ceiling and garage door were clear plastic covered as well during the actual painting
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Like you said - 10x20, and how I painted my '31:



Luckily the compressor and fresh air breathing system were in the house basement. The ceiling and garage door were clear plastic covered as well during the actual painting

Oh yeah . Looks like fun.. LOL . Actually my buddy chided me for painting my bucket in my cramped up little garage. His words : " I told you to bring it up here and paint it in my paint booth ." I am taking him up on it this time and I am going to let him do all the work . All I have to do is strip out the interior and remove the taillights etc and he is going to take it from there.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:23 PM
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I did this one in an almost identical set up, tho with less fancy water & dirt traps and in a different 10x20 foot garage:



Now apples and apples

Dave W
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I did this one in an almost identical set up, tho with less fancy water & dirt traps and in a different 10x20 foot garage:



Now apples and apples

Dave W
One of my biggest mistakes was painting in February, in garage that is not always heated. You do beautiful paint work, I must say.. Good job !
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by adantessr
One of my biggest mistakes was painting in February, in garage that is not always heated. You do beautiful paint work, I must say.. Good job !
Thanks.
My biggest problem is that I have to be retrained with every car I do as the paints/systems change about every decade or so - and that's about how often I do a car.

Dave W
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Thanks.
My biggest problem is that I have to be retrained with every car I do as the paints/systems change about every decade or so - and that's about how often I do a car.

Dave W
Before my T-bucket paint job in Feb of 2010, the last thing I painted was a '66 Peterbilt that I painted in '85 in Wyoming. The humidity there in the summer is something like 15% so there was no problem with water in the air lines. Best paint job I ever did was in '83 with activated acrylic enamel on a '46 ford pick-up. Bright copper poly. It was 96 deg in the shade in the UP of MI the day that I painted that one. It came out perfect and it shone just like a new penny . Won first place in the special interest category in a car show that summer . Allan
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2011, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
Talking about consideration of those new to the paint game who are looking for use-full information and not interested in what not to do or what won't solve a problem . Their not interested in the personalities but instead the principle. I can't help those who know it all already but when I see short sighted suggestions on a topic I'll post up for the benefit of the newcomer.
And while the contest rolls on...

I too use a 3 stage desiccant dryer on paint hoses as well as a ball filter at the gun..

There are a couple ways water and contaminates can get into the line after water and oil separators even with new desiccant in the canister. The first obvious way is condensation from compressed air in the hose. Depending on the length of the hose when the air in there cools it makes moisture.
Another culprit can be that black rubber from the hose breaking down and passing through the gun. Especially new hoses for some reason. Another way is if the end of the paint hose is allowed to sit in water on the floor between coats or is hit by water when wetting down water activated filters etc, it can wait in the hose coupler and "load" it'self into the gun when the painter hooks it up and then it flies through the gun onto the project.
I suggested the black style ball filter because I have not had a failure with them as I have had with the orange brand but even when the orange ones do fail it is not without warning. You'll see and hear the orange ones getting ready to let go long before they do and it's because it's being pushed way past it's service life.
Correct me if I am wrong, the way I read this you feel it is okay to attack another member if they have a different style of posting than you?

You could have made your post with the air dryer system you use with no malice towards others.
The personal attack was unnecessary and imho just lessens your credibility, so why waste your time ?
Pointing out how to not do something is like a stop sign. The sign says stop, but doesn't say why. The message is delivered with few words.
On Internet forums I feel a person has to be careful offering advice on how to do something because when it goes wrong he/she will be the sob for giving the advice, even though the advice was sound and the person didn't follow it or had other factors not revealed originally or contributed to after the advice was given.

I take any advice on technique or products very lightly unless the poster has substantial evidence that they are a pro and not a rent a stall mud it up cover it up hack.
Hopefully others do the same and take Internet advice for what it is, given by anyone with an ip, and not necessarily by a person truly competent in the topic.
I have no idea what your profession is, I have not seen your work so I cannot judge your validity.
I am a backyard hobbyist and know little to nothing about most everything.

****, that is long winded, sorry for the rambling thought. Now lets go build some hot rods!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2011, 09:00 AM
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interesting perspective , I don't see where I mentioned or "attacked" another member.. I'm just another crumb in the cookie
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2011, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
interesting perspective , I don't see where I mentioned or "attacked" another member.. I'm just another crumb in the cookie
[QOUTE=milo]***Also beware of egotistical negative sarcastic one line posters.
Look through some of their past posts and you will see a pattern. There is a ignore list in your control panel that makes them a non issue unless someone quotes them [/QUOTE]

That post was a character attack and totally unnecessary. It is just your opinion of another person.

One thing I am surprised about with this forum is the members are allegedly hotrodders are very judgemental.
I grew up with the idea that a hotrodder was a person that did it his way, not the same way as all the others. Yet here if a person doesn't fit the template, they are the misfit.
Seems to me a bit hypocritical.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2011, 04:50 PM
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Why Can't We All Just Get Along ?

I, for one came to the Hotrodders forum to pick up information from guys who have more knowledge / experience than I do. I think it is great to be able to glean from the vast amount of knowledge that is combined on this forum. I'll bet there are thousands of combined years of experience from all the members here. If we can just set our egos aside and help our fellow hotrodders and not take it personally when somebody's ideas / experiences are different from ours, this would be a much more enjoyable experience for all. Can I get an Amen ?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:03 AM
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I read this thread a few days too late. I just epoxy primed my hood scoop with SPI epoxy and got a few fisheyes. I used their wax and grease remover but not the water based. I wiped that thing down about 5 times and still got fisheyes. I sanded them out and resprayed, wiping them down again before shooting, fisheyes keep coming back in pretty much the same places. I'm sanding down to the fiberglass and then some (degreasing before re-shooting) and it keeps coming back!
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:46 AM
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There is a way to check the panel with water before preceding
especialy with plastic, fibre glass and carbon fibre parts. Wet the entire panel and watch as the water dries...it will show potential problems where the contaminates will break the skin of the water first. A contaminate free panel will dry evenly.
Here's a read that may help: http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=2838

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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2011, 10:56 PM
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so is this a common problem with fiberglass or is it more of an isolated instance? I'll be using SPI's waterborne degreaser for prepping my fiberglass hood. I just don't want to be experiencing this issue.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2011, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer
so is this a common problem with fiberglass or is it more of an isolated instance? I'll be using SPI's waterborne degreaser for prepping my fiberglass hood. I just don't want to be experiencing this issue.
No it's not a common problem. You have to wait longer for the wax and grease remover to completely dry from fiberglass. Just because it looks dry doesn't mean it is. Its when you spray over the wax and grease remover that causes the fisheyes.
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