[Babyburr]

My gel coat is very smooth, but it does have some small scratches. Suggestions on how to prepare body for paint would be greatly appreciated. You can explain how or maybe suggest a how to book to read.

Thank ya very much.

[Old Fool]

sand it with 400, shoot a coat of epoxy, then go after it with what ever you wish for a topcoat.

DO NOT wipe it down with anything that has the name Lacquer Thinner on the can or contents.
DO use a waterborne wax and grease remover, SPI 700-1 is one of the best on the market and is reasonably priced, order it at the same time you order their epoxy !

[302 Z28]

I agree.

Vince

[adantessr]

What do you guys think of Xylol for a wax and grease remover ?

[Underground]

Originally Posted by Old Fool

sand it with 400, shoot a coat of epoxy, then go after it with what ever you wish for a topcoat.

DO NOT wipe it down with anything that has the name Lacquer Thinner on the can or contents.
DO use a waterborne wax and grease remover, SPI 700-1 is one of the best on the market and is reasonably priced, order it at the same time you order their epoxy !

Old fool, you need to go a little farther on WHY a waterbourne w&g remover on fiberglass. The solvent based w&g removers cause static electricity when wiped across fiberglass/plastic, which A) could cause a flash fire B) WILL cause every piece of dirt around to stick to the surface. The waterbourne do not do this.

[Lizer]

Originally Posted by Underground

Old fool, you need to go a little farther on WHY a waterbourne w&g remover on fiberglass. The solvent based w&g removers cause static electricity when wiped across fiberglass/plastic, which A) could cause a flash fire B) WILL cause every piece of dirt around to stick to the surface. The waterbourne do not do this.

great to know! I had no idea and will be prepping a fiberglass hood later this summer.

Also, if the fiberglass doesn't come UV cured it will need to be. Barry says let it sit outside where for either 2 days or a week, I don't remember...

[Underground]

I don't know about the hood. I have never had a problem with any I have done. I could see if it was just made, but I think most sit around long enough to be cured out. Spend the money on a higher quality one, less work in prepping, fitting, smoothing ect. I mean it wouldn't hurt to let it sit out in the sun for a couple of days.

[Babyburr]

Thank you. Great information!

[shine]

clean it first with soap and water . then leave in the sun for several days. parts are not stocked but rather made when ordered. once cured clean with w&g removers then sand with 180 and epoxy. sell the lacquer thinner to the idiots who think it's a cleaning solvent.

[BarryK]

Originally Posted by adantessr

What do you guys think of Xylol for a wax and grease remover ?

Very risky on fiberglass, it could total an SMC type, regular fiberglass, say pre
70, if sat in sun 2-3 days after cleaning might work.

Xylol aka Xylene is actually a cheap tail solvent, rather slow evaporation rate.

[shine]

keep in mind after sanding anything you put on fiberglass will be IN the fiberglass. you must give it more dry time than metal .

[Irelands child]

I hope this car has been preassembled by you the builder at least once, that you aren't just taking it out of the crate and painting it

Beyond the sanding and priming, there may (will??) be filler and 'glass work even with a baby's bottom slick gel coat even with the best of bodies.

- had to say it since I don't "know" you and don't mean any disrespect for your skill sets and experience.

Dave W

[shine]

very few builders produce ready to go bodies. there are several that need little to no filler work but the problem is the selling of molds after they are worn out. that is where the cheap parts come from .

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by BarryK

Very risky on fiberglass, it could total an SMC type, regular fiberglass, say pre
70, if sat in sun 2-3 days after cleaning might work.

Xylol aka Xylene is actually a cheap tail solvent, rather slow evaporation rate.

Okay, thanks. I am going to be doing a little work on my T-bucket body before I have it repainted, and I didn't want to contaminate it. Guess I'll have to take a trip to SW for some wax & grease remover...........Allan

[BarryK]

Originally Posted by andantes

Kay, thanks. I am going to be doing a little work on my T-bucket body before I have it repainted, and I didn't want to contaminate it. Guess I'll have to take a trip to SW for some wax & grease remover...........Allan

PERFECT!

Someone that listens! Get the S&W brand, your car deserves that, not their cheap brand.

Like I always say, if you do everything perfect, there are still a 100 things that can go wrong out of your control when you pull the trigger, so no need to add to that number.