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Old 07-28-2013, 09:15 AM
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Prepping Chassis?

As a few of you may know, I got my car back from the bodyshop before it was finished

It's going to go to a new shop once I find one, but in the meantime I'm playing with the chassis

The chassis is sat in my garage in the primer that was applied after shot blasting

It needs the welds dressing, a few bits smoothing, and some pitting removing


I'd like to get these jobs done myself, but need some advice on where to begin......


For example, if I want to skim over the pitting, do I remove that primer first and skim onto the bare metal? or do I just fill over the 'shotblast-primer'


I haven't got a compressor, or any spray equipment, so the best I can do is rattle can stuff, which I'd want to avoid unless it was temporary until it went to the new bodyshop

There are a few areas of surface rust on the chassis again
I don't want to spend ages smoothing and skimming areas if the chassis eventually gets shotblaster again

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Old 07-28-2013, 09:21 AM
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:46 AM
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What type of primer is on your frame? You would need to remove any surface rust with sand paper, wire wheel, brush, whatever you can to remove the rust...it needs to be gone. Any and all surfaces that are pitted or need attention should also be roughed up with sand paper, 120 grit should be fine (180 in a pinch). The ideal situation would be for you to now apply 2 coats of Epoxy primer over the entire frame and allow proper flash times between coats and let them set up for about 24 to 48 hours. You can then apply a 2 part putty over the pits smooth them using 180 grit sand paper and apply 2 more coats of Epoxy primer.

Having a compressor and a paint gun will do the best job, try avoiding spray cans if at all possible. You like the car right? You have a lot of money into so far right? Don't destroy your dream with rattle can paint or primer...do it right, if you don't have the equipment, rent it, borrow it, pay someone who has it but, if you do pay someone, be specific as to what your going to pay and what you expect.

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:53 AM
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No spray gun or compressor? You are really asking for a PILE of work doing this without that!

First off, you need to know how well it was sand blasted and what primer was put over it? If you can scratch into the pits and there is rust, you are screwed because it may not have been blasted well enough. To fill them all and paint the frame could be a whole truck load of work that will be wasted. What was it primed with? Well if it was some urethane primer right over the bare metal that may not be a good idea, depending on the brand and part number, epoxy would be much better.

If it was sand blasted properly and epoxy primed, filling those pits with regular old plastic filler like Evercoat's "RAGE" or using a polyester putty like Evercoat's "Glaze coat" would be a cut to the chase get her done then put a REAL 2K epoxy primer over that using a rattle can like this....Eastwood's 2K Aero-Spray

I haven't used this particular brand but the Rubberseal 2K epoxy primer in an aerosol can that I did try was great!

Ok, that is how you could get it done. Not the easiest and not the best way but you could get it done ready for paint.


Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
What type of primer is on your frame? You would need to remove any surface rust with sand paper, wire wheel, brush, whatever you can to remove the rust...it needs to be gone. Any and all surfaces that are pitted or need attention should also be roughed up with sand paper, 120 grit should be fine (180 in a pinch). The ideal situation would be for you to now apply 2 coats of Epoxy primer over the entire frame and allow proper flash times between coats and let them set up for about 24 to 48 hours. You can then apply a 2 part putty over the pits smooth them using 180 grit sand paper and apply 2 more coats of Epoxy primer.

Having a compressor and a paint gun will do the best job, try avoiding spray cans if at all possible. You like the car right? You have a lot of money into so far right? Don't destroy your dream with rattle can paint or primer...do it right, if you don't have the equipment, rent it, borrow it, pay someone who has it but, if you do pay someone, be specific as to what your going to pay and what you expect.

Ray
I am with you on this Ray, but I don't wrap up all "Rattle cans" in to one stroke of the keyboard anymore after doing a test on the 2K versions!

Epoxy
Solvent resistant (REAL) 2K epoxy in an aerosol can!!!!


Filler primer
2K aerosol can filler primer review.

Complete repair without a compressor.

Compressor-less all aerosol repair review.

I can't find the link to the follow up, four years after that fender was shot. The day after I shot it I put it up on the roof of a shed at the shop in Sept 09. I got it down a year or so ago and clay barred it to get all the crap off and it looked like the day it was shot!

Nope, all Aerosols are NOT created equal that is for sure!

Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:03 AM
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As we know, "ant 8u" has a pile of cash in this project and not all of the cash has gone into the restoration, a lot of it has gone into the pocket of a less than scrupulous individual...however...if he wants it done right and I hope that is were his question was going...rattle cans...for primer or paint aren't the answer.

I always try and answer a post as if it was my vehicle and if I had that much invested and was that far into the project, I wouldn't start using inferior products just to "get her done". If it's a cash issue, save the money and do it right. if you just want to have it finished and don't care about the longevity, spray bombs away.

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:04 AM
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Again, you are very right! I was just tossing out there the options. But yes, seems like a terrible waste not to do it up right. But honestly, have you ever seen these 2K aerosols? It literally is pretty much the same as spraying out of a gun from what I found with my tests. The big difference of course is that it is EXPENSIVE being an aerosol can only has about 3-4 ounces of product in it! At $20 to spray two mils of primer on a few square feet of metal it's pretty crazy. But if you click on the links and see what I was able to do with the stuff, we are talking wet lac thinner soaked rag test on that epoxy the next day with ZERO transfer.

Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I am with you on this Ray, but I don't wrap up all "Rattle cans" in to one stroke of the keyboard anymore after doing a test on the 2K versions!

Epoxy
Solvent resistant (REAL) 2K epoxy in an aerosol can!!!!


Filler primer
2K aerosol can filler primer review.

Complete repair without a compressor.

Compressor-less all aerosol repair review.

I can't find the link to the follow up, four years after that fender was shot. The day after I shot it I put it up on the roof of a shed at the shop in Sept 09. I got it down a year or so ago and clay barred it to get all the crap off and it looked like the day it was shot!

Nope, all Aerosols are NOT created equal that is for sure!

Brian
Well Brian, maybe is should have been born in Missouri, I haven't used any spray bomb primer that compares to using an actual Epoxy, that you mix with a catalyst, induce for 30 minutes, spray on a coat, wait proper flash times followed by another coat of Epoxy.

How much is this spray bomb, how many would you need to do a frame? How close does it come to the Epoxies that we are used to using? If this was your vehicle and you had the same equipment limitations that the OP has but, you know what you know, would you spray bomb your frame with rattle can primer?

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:12 AM
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You also made some good points about what's underneath the primmer...if it's a given that the frame may need to be taken down to bare steel again, what's the cost difference between rattle can Epoxy and Paint Gun Epoxy? If that is the case...is it worth taking the gamble on a rattle can?

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:20 AM
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Again, this is an alternative that IS feasible. I am telling you, the stuff acted just like what comes out of the gun. The clear, I cut and buffed it the next day, not even 24 hours just as I would clear out of a gun, the epoxy primer, same thing, lacquer rub test passed in not even 24 hours!

It is NOT cost effective, not by a long shot! But if someone was hell bent on doing that frame at home they could do a small area at a time and get it into epoxy primer then take the whole thing when ready for a coat of primer and paint out of a gun and I honestly feel it would be perfectly fine on a frame, depending on what the owners expectations were.

If you wanted hands down the best way, not on your life the stuff is too thin, it's a joke in that regard. But all I can say is I was damn impressed with the stuff.

I didn't re-read it all but as I remember I tried to see how much I could spray with one can of the primer and I didn't even get half of a small Honda hood with two coats, which could barely be 2 mils as I remember, it is VERY thin and as mentioned only what, 3-4 ounces in a can, those $20 cans would add up VERY fast.


Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Well Brian, maybe is should have been born in Missouri, I haven't used any spray bomb primer that compares to using an actual Epoxy, that you mix with a catalyst, induce for 30 minutes, spray on a coat, wait proper flash times followed by another coat of Epoxy.

How much is this spray bomb, how many would you need to do a frame? How close does it come to the Epoxies that we are used to using? If this was your vehicle and you had the same equipment limitations that the OP has but, you know what you know, would you spray bomb your frame with rattle can primer?

Ray
Ray, you DO mix this with a catalyst! The can comes with a "button" that you put on the bottom of the can and push up breaking the container of catalyst in the can.



You then shake it up and you have catalyzed REAL 2k primer with a pot life in that aerosol can just as you would put in a gun.

Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u View Post
As a few of you may know, I got my car back from the bodyshop before it was finished

It's going to go to a new shop once I find one, but in the meantime I'm playing with the chassis

The chassis is sat in my garage in the primer that was applied after shot blasting

It needs the welds dressing, a few bits smoothing, and some pitting removing


I'd like to get these jobs done myself, but need some advice on where to begin......


For example, if I want to skim over the pitting, do I remove that primer first and skim onto the bare metal? or do I just fill over the 'shotblast-primer'


I haven't got a compressor, or any spray equipment, so the best I can do is rattle can stuff, which I'd want to avoid unless it was temporary until it went to the new bodyshop

There are a few areas of surface rust on the chassis again
I don't want to spend ages smoothing and skimming areas if the chassis eventually gets shotblaster again
I tossed out an option....2k aerosols. But Ray is right, why?

When the rubber meets the road of course if you are building a car you are GOING TO need a compressor along the way. I can't imagine not having my compressor at home, and I very rarely paint or prime anything, yet I use it all the time. So getting a compressor and getting it over with is of course the best way to handle this issue. Cut to the chase, get it over with and move on having fun working on your car.

Hell, if you have a garage and a compressor you don't need to bring the car anywhere to do anything, you can do it all at home. If you think you can't, just spend some time around these forums and you will see countless guys who started out without any knowledge what so ever in this stuff and they end up doing the whole car! It's not rocket science, it's not open heart surgery, one small step at a time and you CAN get this stuff done.

Get yourself a compressor and get to work!

Brian
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:36 AM
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Ray, you DO mix this with a catalyst! The can comes with a "button" that you put on the bottom of the can and push up breaking the container of catalyst in the can.

You then shake it up and you have catalyzed REAL 2k primer with a pot life in that aerosol can just as you would put in a gun.

Brian
I appreciate all that Brian and I'm sure that it is an improvement over what used to be out there...however, there are enough variables that can go wrong when you are doing things the proper way using mix ratios, induction time, gun set up, flash times etc. I for one don't want to add any more variables involving a spray bomb into a 5 figure restoration.

These are my opinions and yes, a catalyzed 2 part Epoxy spray bomb that is not cost effective, leaves more room for manufacturer error (if the catalyst button doesn't open the activator...or whatever) and you really don't know what your putting on your restoration is an option. Not for me, but an option.

Again, just my opinion.

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I tossed out an option....2k aerosols. But Ray is right, why?

When the rubber meets the road of course if you are building a car you are GOING TO need a compressor along the way. I can't imagine not having my compressor at home, and I very rarely paint or prime anything, yet I use it all the time. So getting a compressor and getting it over with is of course the best way to handle this issue. Cut to the chase, get it over with and move on having fun working on your car.

Hell, if you have a garage and a compressor you don't need to bring the car anywhere to do anything, you can do it all at home. If you think you can't, just spend some time around these forums and you will see countless guys who started out without any knowledge what so ever in this stuff and they end up doing the whole car! It's not rocket science, it's not open heart surgery, one small step at a time and you CAN get this stuff done.

Get yourself a compressor and get to work!

Brian
Just read this after I posted Brian...Thanks

Ray
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:49 AM
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Ray, there is always the "Best" way, but there is what I like to call the "Bestest" way. Replacing the rusted metal with new metal is the "Best" way to fix that rust. Slathering bondo over it would be the "wrong" way. But cleaning it up and epoxy priming it and filling it with Everglass would be the "Bestest" way, you know what I mean?

Over the years I have been surprised at how often the "Bestest" way gets the job done for someone. That's why I toss those things out there. If someone does it the "wrong" way that is just a friggin waste of time. But the "bestest".....that can often work out and meet the guys expectations.

Having the "best" and the "bestest" to pick from is so much better than going at it blind.

Brian
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