prepping for Por 15 without the marine clean step - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 09:54 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,069
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 574
Thanked 231 Times in 210 Posts
prepping for Por 15 without the marine clean step

does anyone know of any alternative to using the suggested marine clean? We have a quart of POR 15 and am wondering what I have to do to keep it from sheeting off. I hear you have to leave a little rust on it to bite into. Getting a mini blaster and am eyeballing this pitted trunk drop off on a 55 300 and am scared to blast it and then apply The Por 15 if it needs rust to bite into, but I'd like to hear more opinions on getting this stuff to stick before I take the word of one man. Any opinions greatly appreciated and if I can avoid the marine clean that's great.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 10:19 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 491
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 62 Times in 52 Posts
Tech 69, speaking from personal experience with por 15 don't think there is any way to stop it from peeling off in sheets. Have used it over rust, prepped it properly over clean steel and still if you have to drill a hole or grind a small area to do a repair it seems it will always peel off in big areas. It just will not feather out like paint does. Just giving you my experience with the stuff, mabey someone else will have a better solution.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 10:24 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,069
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 574
Thanked 231 Times in 210 Posts
I have that same experience. I got a Mustang with it already applied and it did exactly that when I "peeled" some back for rust repairs.

I did the rest of the car with zero rust on the underside and trunk area. Had no problems with that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 10:31 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 491
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 62 Times in 52 Posts
I'm thinking just mix up some black epoxy and just brush it on like you would the por. You know once it dries it will surely not "peel" off.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:24 AM
gearheadslife's Avatar
MentalMuffinMan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,273
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 113
Thanked 296 Times in 274 Posts
por only fails from user error.. or try'n to use another product..
FAQ's : Buy POR-15 : Gas Tank Sealer : Advanced-Rust-Protection.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:08 AM
boatbob2
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: north florida
Age: 76
Posts: 1,374
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
Por-15..........

POR-15 Is garbage,i used all of the required materials,,when i did my 48 Ford Chassis,in 5 months that junk peeled off in sheets,,then i blasted the chassis,sprayed 3 coats of EPOXY PRIMER and 3 coats of 2K black paint,7 years later,it still looks great...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 11:54 AM
mitmaks's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Grille
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington
Age: 31
Posts: 1,599
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts

Only time I've seen POR15 fail is from user error. I have used it on numerous occasions and its still holding up great. I have not used marine clean underneath, just left rusty area (cleaned off scaling rust, dirt, etc) with a wire brush and POR15 went on. Still holding up great years later.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 12:36 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,069
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 574
Thanked 231 Times in 210 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks View Post

Only time I've seen POR15 fail is from user error. I have used it on numerous occasions and its still holding up great. I have not used marine clean underneath, just left rusty area (cleaned off scaling rust, dirt, etc) with a wire brush and POR15 went on. Still holding up great years later.
did you use that etch crap step they ask for or just clean flaky metal and go for it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 12:57 PM
mitmaks's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Grille
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington
Age: 31
Posts: 1,599
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Just cleaned it real well, vacuumed any peeling rust w wire brush and went over it with 2 coats of POR15
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 02:19 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,659
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 272 Times in 237 Posts
I gave up on POR15 years ago! I clean the underside well, and then use Rustoleum satin black thinned with acetone to spray, or use a brush and roller to cut in and paint it on. I've had great results with Rustoleum, and it's very economical.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 09:09 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 63
Thanked 104 Times in 88 Posts
The marine clean is just a degreaser, why would you not want to use it (or any alternative degreaser)?

Needing 'rust to bite into' is such a gimmick joke. POR is a physical bond and process; it isn't a chemical bond to the metal and it isn't chemically reacting with rust to stop it. It just uses its stupid patented little 'fingers' to grip the surface, and rust just happens to be convenient because it's equivalent to an etched surface. The metal prep that they want you to use as the second step is zinc phosphate, which is metal-etching, not to mention it does neutralize rust--the top few micrometers anyways. If it needs a physical substrate to bind to, then I give it a physical substrate by mechanically abrading the surface, just like you would for any other paint prep.

I treat these types of products as I do with any other paint product I'm using...I remove all the rust, sand with the grit I need, degrease, and if using one of these 'rust toppers' which I do admit to using (but have no belief or confidence in their efficacy), then I spray the area down with zinc phosphate, scuff and paint.

I haven't used POR, but I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, and Chassis Saver which are POR analogs...paint over rust, moisture cured, will stick your lid to the can if you have any paint in the rim, blah blah blah.

I've painted my entire gas tank with them, floor pans, wheel house, leaf springs, and rear axle housing/differential, this was 3 or 4 years ago. Needless to say nothing has peeled off or so much as hinted at peeling off, but there is rust poking back through.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 09:18 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,069
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 574
Thanked 231 Times in 210 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
The marine clean is just a degreaser, why would you not want to use it (or any alternative degreaser)?

Needing 'rust to bite into' is such a gimmick joke. POR is a physical bond and process; it isn't a chemical bond to the metal and it isn't chemically reacting with rust to stop it. It just uses its stupid patented little 'fingers' to grip the surface, and rust just happens to be convenient because it's equivalent to an etched surface. The metal prep that they want you to use as the second step is zinc phosphate, which is metal-etching, not to mention it does neutralize rust--the top few micrometers anyways. If it needs a physical substrate to bind to, then I give it a physical substrate by mechanically abrading the surface, just like you would for any other paint prep.

I treat these types of products as I do with any other paint product I'm using...I remove all the rust, sand with the grit I need, degrease, and if using one of these 'rust toppers' which I do admit to using (but have no belief or confidence in their efficacy), then I spray the area down with zinc phosphate, scuff and paint.

I haven't used POR, but I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, and Chassis Saver which are POR analogs...paint over rust, moisture cured, will stick your lid to the can if you have any paint in the rim, blah blah blah.

I've painted my entire gas tank with them, floor pans, wheel house, leaf springs, and rear axle housing/differential, this was 3 or 4 years ago. Needless to say nothing has peeled off or so much as hinted at peeling off, but there is rust poking back through.
well I wouldn't want to use the marine clean cause I figured it was some sort of cleaner in which there's alternatives, and according to you I was right. Thanks, very helpful. Will degrease it after I blast it, then rust mort it, and brush it on. Thanks again. Just wasn't sure about it but I gotta use it cause it's there. Personally, I'd rather use Zero Rust with superclean metal.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 09:27 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 63
Thanked 104 Times in 88 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
well I wouldn't want to use the marine clean cause I figured it was some sort of cleaner in which there's alternatives, and according to you I was right.
ah yes, I see where you are going with that. Just use whatever degreaser you have. It just needs a grease and wax-free surface, like anything. For that matter there's a lot of cheaper zinc phosphate alternatives to their Metal Prep, as well. I was using a semi-local product (when I still lived in Iowa) by a company called PPC, and the product was called Phix (Corrosion treatment).

In fact I still use it to spray on bare metal to keep it from flashing. It turns the metal a nice light gray with a coating of zinc, but it's not foolproof.

On that note, I have found that if I keep bare metal clean and degreased, it takes a lot longer to flash rust. I figured this out from an observation I made when I had flash rust spots in the shape of my finger tips
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2013, 10:08 AM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,659
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 272 Times in 237 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wong View Post
I can introduce you something ahout gas springs,which are helpful to dealing with the problem that your car faces,if you are interested in it,please click this *********************************************** .You can see something about gas springs,including the installation instructions of gas springs,the strength calculation,and some other function of gas springs.what’more,there are many gas springs supplers for you to choose.
Troll or spammer?

Last edited by OneMoreTime; 07-18-2013 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Edited out spam link
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2013, 10:45 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,179
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,320
Thanked 1,161 Times in 1,024 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Troll or spammer?
Both


Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Good GM Transmission Link for step-by-step instructions d&c repairs it all Transmission - Rearend 0 09-30-2008 03:12 PM
oil change- step by step instructions for women and men Fireball Hotrodders' Lounge 38 08-30-2008 07:39 AM
illustrated step-by-step wing window replacement bullheimer Body - Exterior 0 04-07-2008 11:13 PM
I need a step by step idiots guide. lol... gto nut 00 Transmission - Rearend 6 03-29-2006 10:16 AM
Rebuilding my first Q-jet carb and need step by step. MopaRV Engine 8 12-31-2002 03:41 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.