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Old 02-01-2006, 05:08 PM
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Thats right on the Money man.

Good post !

thanks .. X

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Old 02-02-2006, 03:35 PM
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Thanks for all your help!

I tried the aircraft stripper on a small plastic part and it did indeed seem to melt the plastic. It didn't destroy the part but it seemed to weaken the plastic a bit, to the point where if you weren't carefull with the putty knife that it would cut into the plastic with ease. But once washed off good with soap and water and dried, it hardened back up. Anyway, I think I'm going to stop using the aircraft stripper and try the stuff mentioned above.

Also, I believe the consensus is to continue use of the SPI epoxy and SPI 2k without a flex additive.

Thanks for all your help,

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Old 02-05-2006, 12:34 AM
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One of my businesses is reconditioning plastic bumper covers. Never use a chemical to strip the color coat and clear or you will end up in trouble sooner rather than later. You only need to strip the clear to get a primer onto the paint underneath. Strongly recommend that you strip the clear with a DA sander starting with #120 so as not to leave any scratches, then to #180. You have to get every last bit of clear off or it will flake the paint, so you will also have to do a bit of hand sanding. Remember, it has soaked of years of wax. Get a plastic razor and tube of pin hole filler to fill the inevidable holes which appaear in the plastic. Give it a thick coat of Transtar 1225 or some other hi-build primer, then detail it again, and givve it a final coat of hi-build. Like painting metal, prep is everything. Spray your paint. We never use flex coat because bumper covers don't flap around like they used to, which produced the cracks. Clear the paint and mount the cover. The fun thing about plastic is that you can weld pieces of different covers together with fog light openings, ducting or whatever quite easily so that you are not stuck with a factory cover. Harbor Freight sells a decent cheap kit and rod that can get you started. Just remember to use the same type of plastic -- they cant be mixed. Reshaping plastic is also easy with a little patience and a heat gun. Good luck.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:07 AM
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Preping bumbers and Plastic parts

First off DO NOT USE strippers as everyone stated !!!!!!!
Next use 120-220 grit to DA the parts or have them media blasted, 80 grit
will leave you with a mess that you will wish never happened. Any primer that is flexible can be used so long as it will work with your paint system. But you must use flexible primers. You also need to watch out for parts that where primed with a WATER BASED PRIMER this was started 20+ yrs. ago as a eco friendly try. The water based is still in use today on some parts. The last thing is you MUST USE FLEX AGENTS IN YOUR PAINT!!!! It DOSEN'T WEAR OUT OR FADE AWAY. I have used it on Vettes to stop the spider webs from coming back and it works even better on bumbers and plastic. If you want to see what happens to a bumper without flex just look at cars in the mall with little bump on the bumber, you will see chip and large cracks.
And for what is worth I am an ASE Master auto body tech. along with Dupont & Sikkens paint schools + 34yrs of collision & Retro work.
Good luck and I hope all goes well on your project.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:54 AM
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there are products made for urethane stripping the one i use is in a aerosol can, mar-hyde produces it and also kleen-strip(bulldog)and i have never had any issues with it.
and there are plenty of us ASE cert guys out there and our opinions well you know how the line goes.
any advice jc and bondo king give you is golden. they are also LIL members.

Last edited by AuggieStyle; 12-21-2007 at 10:08 AM.
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