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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Ive got the 5/8 wrench and im whaling on this sucker. Simply will not even begin to insert. Im pretty sure if i continue this pickup is history. Anything i should try? Give up and have a dude with the fancy tool do it?


-Kenny
Are you using the new pickup from a new pump or the old one. The old one that came out of the engine is correct for your oil pan. Use that one in thenew pump or its stock replacement. They are dirt cheap. Did you get a mellon pump. (extra L for tech to correct and crack a beer and admire his work) sorry tech couldnt help it. LOL

Fyi its got to be welded anyway if you dont have welder you can let someone else fight it into the hole. But freezer should work if its not junk.

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Old 12-06-2012, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
What's the block out of? Give us the alpha-numeric code off the passenger side block deck at the very front of the block. Whose pan are you using? What part number? We don't know at this point if the pan is wider with the same depth or deeper with the same width or what. If it's just wider with the same depth, you can use the OEM pieces. If it's deeper, then you'll have to use an extended pickup.

Well i cant give you the block # as i dont know the exact one im getting now. Long story short kmjent.com screwed me and sent .030 pistons not the .040 i requested so the machinist said hed trade me for one of his 4 bolt blocks straight up so i dont have to pay the major shipping both ways for the right size plus the delay of a couple weeks. KMJent.com is great and very friendly, until they screw up. They bassically said i was lying and never added the .040 size request in the customer notes.

I fondled an OEM tube for a 74 chevelle and it had almost no drop. Measuring from the bottom of the tube where it meets the pump down to the pickup the one that came with this oil pan has about a 2" drop. The OEM one might have .5 inches of drop.

Last edited by kentactic; 12-06-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Are you using the new pickup from a new pump or the old one. The old one that came out of the engine is correct for your oil pan. Use that one in thenew pump or its stock replacement. They are dirt cheap. Did you get a mellon pump. (extra L for tech to correct and crack a beer and admire his work) sorry tech couldnt help it. LOL

Fyi its got to be welded anyway if you dont have welder you can let someone else fight it into the hole. But freezer should work if its not junk.
Its a brand new aftermarket pickup sent with the aftermarket oil pan. Im using a high volume melling pump. As far as welding i have a Mig welder if needed. It apears as though the pickup provided wouldnt NEED to be welded since its got that bracket to hold it from moving. But im sure it wouldnt hurt to have welded it. But im ditching that pickup anyways.

Last edited by kentactic; 12-06-2012 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:17 PM
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Heres what im dealing with.



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Old 12-06-2012, 06:11 PM
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Just like the pan is sitting in the picture, measure from the corner of the pan where it meets the block down to the bottom of the sump. Write it down, you'll use this figure for all future reference measurements. Let's say it's 8 1/4". Mock up the pump and pump pickup on the bearing cap and measure from the block where the pan sits to the bottom of the pickup screen. You may have to get a buddy to hold a yardstick on the screen, making sure the yardstick is parallel with the block surface where the pan bolts on and extend the yardstick out past the pan rail of the block in order for you to get a place to measure to. In this for-instance, you'd want the pickup screen at about 8" from the block surface. Figuring a 1/8" thick pan gasket, this would give you the 3/8" screen to pan clearance that you want. Don't rely on this as the end-all though. You should still go ahead and check the clearance with clay. "Measure twice, cut once".
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Just like the pan is sitting in the picture, measure from the corner of the pan where it meets the block down to the bottom of the sump. Write it down, you'll use this figure for all future reference measurements. Let's say it's 8 1/4". Mock up the pump and pump pickup on the bearing cap and measure from the block where the pan sits to the bottom of the pickup screen. You may have to get a buddy to hold a yardstick on the screen, making sure the yardstick is parallel with the block surface where the pan bolts on and extend the yardstick out past the pan rail of the block in order for you to get a place to measure to. In this for-instance, you'd want the pickup screen at about 8" from the block surface. Figuring a 1/8" thick pan gasket, this would give you the 3/8" screen to pan clearance that you want. Don't rely on this as the end-all though. You should still go ahead and check the clearance with clay. "Measure twice, cut once".

Cool i can do that.


Edit: Ok so my pan depth from gasket edge to bottom of pan is 8.437" or 8 7/16"...

Last edited by kentactic; 12-06-2012 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:21 PM
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I have a high-performance Melling catalog. Please post the part number of your pump and screen.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
I have a high-performance Melling catalog. Please post the part number of your pump and screen.
Heres the exact kit i ordered. You can see the M-55HV on the box for the pump in the picture. I dont think the pickup is melling. Im sure this pickup is as good as any for a starting point unfourtunatly its rusted out. Could i just clean the pickup out with my rifle bore brushes or something and give it a whirl or am i better off trying again?

Its interesting it says 8.25" pan when i just measured it at 8.437". Am i understanding this correctly that once i added a gasket then the ideal pickup depth would be about 8.25'' ? so perhaps the 8.25 is pickup depth not total pan depth?

SBC Drag Race Oil Pan, Pickup, Pump, Shaft, Stud Kit - KMJ Performance

Last edited by kentactic; 12-06-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentactic View Post
Its interesting it says 8.25" pan when i just measured it at 8.437". Am i understanding this correctly that once i added a gasket then the ideal pickup depth would be about 8.25'' ? so perhaps the 8.25 is pickup depth not total pan depth?
Welcome to the "TRUST NOBODY" school of engine building.
First, mock everything up with the screen you have on hand. If it's the proper depth to reach your target pan clearance, take it to a radiator repair shop and have it boiled out and use it. If it is not the proper depth, determine how much more depth you need and get on the horn with the supplier.
My catalog lists only high performance parts. The M55HV must be considered a more or less "stock-type part", as it is not shown. I have a M-99-HV-S, which is high volume and high pressure.

Kenny, I have a date right now and have to go. Will continue this tomorrow. I'm enjoying this thread very much.
Richard
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Welcome to the "TRUST NOBODY" school of engine building.
First, mock everything up with the screen you have on hand. If it's the proper depth to reach your target pan clearance, take it to a radiator repair shop and have it boiled out and use it. If it is not the proper depth, determine how much more depth you need and get on the horn with the supplier.
My catalog lists only high performance parts. The M55HV must be considered a more or less "stock-type part", as it is not shown. I have a M-99-HV-S, which is high volume and high pressure.

Kenny, I have a date right now and have to go. Will continue this tomorrow. I'm enjoying this thread very much.
Richard
Awesome Richard thanks for all the help so far. Have fun!

My question for when you return is, is it ok to reuse the same pickup once its been pressed and then pulled once? Id really like to braze the pickup when its a done deal to ensure a perfect seal. so im guessing i need to pull the pump apart to protect internal parts from over heating?
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:17 PM
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Awesome Richard thanks for all the help so far. Have fun!

My question for when you return is, is it ok to reuse the same pickup once its been pressed and then pulled once? Id really like to braze the pickup when its a done deal to ensure a perfect seal. so im guessing i need to pull the pump apart to protect internal parts from over heating?
It can take some heat. But just hit it with the mig one spot weld is all you need just like the factory. It will seal when you press it in. You can always push it in a little further the second time.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:48 PM
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It can take some heat. But just hit it with the mig one spot weld is all you need just like the factory. It will seal when you press it in. You can always push it in a little further the second time.
Ya thats true i dont really need to press it ALL the way in for the mock up.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:57 PM
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Ya thats true i dont really need to press it ALL the way in for the mock up.
It will probalby need to be beat out if you do. They never come out as easy as they go in. And if ylu fighting it in then it wont come out easily.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:15 PM
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It will probalby need to be beat out if you do. They never come out as easy as they go in. And if ylu fighting it in then it wont come out easily.
Ya im affraid i might destroy it on the removal. well see. My friend knows everyone at the local ice radiator so maybe ill just have it cleaned up first. if it works ill leave it. if it dosent work i dont care if i destroy it.
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:16 AM
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pressing oil pickup tube

Kenny, don't worry about trying to bolt the pickup to the pump. Put the pickup in the freezer overnite. Have everything ready to press the pickup in. Press it in as far as you can if the bolts line up fine if they don't forget it. Bolt the pump to the bearing cap and use a straight edge as wide as the oil pan rails. You will want 8 1/8" measurement from the straight edge to each side of the the oil pan rails. This means it level and you will have a 3/8" gap. 8 7/16 oilpan depth + 1/16 thickness of gasket = 8 1/2 - 3/8 = 8 1/8. Then remove the pump wrap it in a wet rag and tack weld the pickup to the pump reinstall the pump. If you want you can submerge the screen in oil and spin the pump shaft until oil comes out.
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