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Old 06-05-2010, 05:21 PM
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prime an oil pump on big block chevy

Ok. I'm almost finished putting my 396 back together after a roller cam install / top end rebuild. (details and pictures will by coming at a later date)

There has been oil in the pan this whole time. Well, other than the few minutes it took me to drain and put in fresh oil.

I've let the car sit longer than this and still just started it up in the past and never had oil problems. I just don't want to spend money on a tool that I'm only going to use one time. I can't even find one at any of the part stores here in town.

That being said, is the prime needed or can I slide by without?

Thank you.

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Old 06-05-2010, 05:28 PM
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The oil -pump should be fine but you still need to pump up the lifters, Just how long has it been sitting anyway ? Just Long enough to do the top end work if so the pump should be fine the lifters would be my concern, And in the same process the pump will get it also .JMO


Cole
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:54 PM
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The lifters (hyd roller) got a good oil bath before installing.

It's been sitting about a month.
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:49 PM
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mmm a distributer shaft or some such home grown tool and a drill motor to spin the pump...

Not sure what you mean by an oil bath for the lifters.. were they sitting submerged in oil for an extended period of time. They (IMHO) need to be purged of any air before their installed, and even with that Ive always spun the pump. Since Ive only done SB's I'm assuming the pump is driven in the same fashion.
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:50 PM
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KD Tools #3446

Not a whole lot of money ... and perhaps some peace-of-mind. Maybe you could borrow one from a friend?

If it was a flat-tappet camshaft, I would say that attempting to start it up without priming first would be foolhardy at best.

Whether you prime it or not, (IMHO) you should run it up in the range of 1500 RPM minimum and vary engine RPM between that and 2500 RPM in order to provide splash oiling from the crank.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:23 PM
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it's more of the waiting thing I don't want right now. I go back out of town for 2-3 weeks early next week.

If the mechanic next door doesn't have anything that can work all I need is a small 3/8 - 1/2 piece of round stock with a notch to fit into the oil pump, right?

I should be able to make something like that at work on Monday.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:26 PM
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Do you have a junk / old distributer laying around.?


Cole
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
Do you have a junk / old distributer laying around.?


Cole
Nope. Just the one I'm using. I took a look to see if I could take it apart and be able to put it back together. Doesn't look like it. It's a H.E.I. distributer. I'm doing this in my apartment parking lot. Tools are limited and spare / extra parts I don't have.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:33 PM
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No don't take your good distributer apart. Go to your local parts store and get something like 66GMC showed you in his post.


Cole
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
No don't take your good distributer apart.


Cole
Just the cap / rotor

I'm not that crazy

So some cold roll from work should do the job, right?
Just put a notch in the end to fit in the pump.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:37 PM
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I have the shafts like what GMC is talking about for a ford, But i use a old distributer with the gear ground down and a nut welded on top to spin it with
for chevy.



Cole
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucky5150
it's more of the waiting thing I don't want right now. I go back out of town for 2-3 weeks early next week.

If the mechanic next door doesn't have anything that can work all I need is a small 3/8 - 1/2 piece of round stock with a notch to fit into the oil pump, right?

I should be able to make something like that at work on Monday.
That will spin the pump, but the body of the distributor (and good primer tools) have a journal seal that allows the pressurized oil to pass to both oil galleys on either side of the cam tunnel.

You can make one from a Chevy distributor (except BBC TD or W-motor) by either grinding off the gear teeth or removing the gear totally, then mod the upper end of the dist. to allow a drill to chuck onto the shaft.

Rotate the engine slowly as you spin the primer tool.



Optional to this is to use a pressurized pre-oiler through a port that intersects an oil galley.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You can make one from a Chevy distributor (except BBC TD or W-motor) by either grinding off the gear teeth or removing the gear totally, then mod the upper end of the dist. to allow a drill to chuck onto the shaft.
Ok. Guess I can hit up the local pull-a-part. What are the TD and W-motor distributors?

Does it have to be from a big block or HEI?


bleh, these little things are trying to nickel and dime me to death. I guess I'm not doing too bad for my first time.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:56 PM
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The "cold-rolled with a notch" thing would be tough to keep centered, I would think.

Surely you must have a friend, or a friend-of-a-friend, or know some mechanic that would trust you enough to lend you / help you do this. Like I said earlier ... this is a relatively cheap and seldom-used tool, and I'm sure that someone would be willing to lend you theirs overnight.

I know, too, that you're probably just itching to fire that baby up ... but in the grand scheme of things ... even if you had to wait one more week for a parts store to order this tool, would it be the end of life as we know it? LOL.

Also:
Keep in mind that it takes a fairly strong (torquey) drill to run a hi-vol / hi-pressure oil pump. A corded 1/4" or cordless 3/8 probably won't do. I used a 3/8" air-powered drill and it was just enough to get 15W40 @ 50F moving.

Lastly, if you go with the junkyard distributor "grow your own primer" route, I believe that ANY Chevy V8 (points or HEI, and other than the exceptions that Cobalt327 stated earlier) will work for that purpose.
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucky5150
What are the TD and W-motor distributors?
TD= tall deck (truck) BBC, and 348/409= aka "w-motor".
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