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Old 09-07-2003, 12:48 AM
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primer

I am getting ready to sandblast the body parts of my 1950 chevy pick up i have heard about Dupont vari prime and am thinking of usin it i have read that you can apply the body fillers over this type of primer i have always applied filler to bare metal another thing i have heard is that you should apply the top coat within 48 hours with this primer dont i have to apply some sort of sealer after the filler so it wont absorb the paint thank you in advance this site is awsome

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Old 09-07-2003, 07:44 AM
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I don't have any experience with Vari-prime...but I am using a k200 filler primer. It's catalyzed(sp?) so it drys hard like paint. You should always use a sealer between the paint and primer just to seal off any chances of moisture being present. Primer is like a sponge and will absorb ANY moisture that is around. I have always applied fillers directly to bare metal, I would be kind of cautious about filler over top of primer, just because I wouldn't think that it would hold very well...that's just me though, I'm no pro at it.
Later,
WEIMER
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Old 09-07-2003, 08:09 AM
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I`ve always been leary of coatings that advertised that you could use filler over anything. Filler on metal,then primer, then sealer has always worked for me for 50 years, why change?

Just my 2 cents worth.

Troy
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Old 09-07-2003, 12:04 PM
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NO...NO...NO... Vari prime 615 and 616 is an acid etch primer.
This is one of the best corrosion protection products you can get, But you cannot put your body filler directly over this primer. When you apply it, this product creates a gas, this gas will push any poly product off, even after it is gassed out. If you put this down and then put a sealer down that will work under body filler (dp-40) you will have one of the best corrosion protection packages available... I Myself Still put it right over bare steel on smaller projects and the above method on big projects to prevent flash rust that happens right after blasting. Bryan
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Old 09-07-2003, 03:12 PM
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I`ve never had any flash rust problems. I think there is a piece of a gallon in the paint bin that was bought about 20 years ago.
So why use it if the system I`ve always used works? I have some cars in my collection that was painted 30 years ago, and there is no rust or bad paint on them.

I`m sure there are times a conditions where it could be used.
But if you use a good sealer you will never have any problems.

The less thickness you have under the paint the better it will be.

Troy:
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Old 12-17-2003, 05:29 PM
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Variprime

I used Variprime on freshly cleaned steel, followed by surfacer, sealer, basecoat and clearcoat. After a year I was beginning to see rust stains. Two years later, I had bubbles in the paint. On my next job, I tried etching the metal, followed by epoxy primer, filler, surfacer, sealer, basecoat and clearcoat. The results were about the same as with Variprime. I asked my paint supplier what I was doing wrong, and he said nothing. He told me that with the salt that is used on the roads in the winter in Wisconsin, NOTHING will stop rust on a car that is driven in the snow. That's not the answer I wanted to hear. Interestingly, Jon Kosmoski, founder of House of Kolor, recommends starting with his EP-2 or KP-2 epoxy primer with NO metal etching. I find that interesting because he lives in Minneapolis, where the roads are also salted in the winter. Of course, since most of his work is custom painting, maybe the cars he paints never see the snow. Anybody have any thoughts or secrets to offer?
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Old 12-17-2003, 05:39 PM
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I would like to know about priming bare metal too, as I am just about to go through this on many levels. Body, cage, dash, etc...

I have *heard* that acid-etching primer was the way to go, but nobody ever elaborated.

What is the best product? What is the best manufacturer? What is the preferred process? I will be media blasting, and I am no bodyman!
Can the panels be acid-etched and then bodyworked, or...?
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Old 12-17-2003, 06:16 PM
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hello all. i got a shop where i do restos and custom body and paint work here in youngstown ,ohio where we get pleny of crappy weather and salted roads. but what i like to is all the mud work or duraglass goes on raw steel after it is sanded to where im satisfied i put a thin coat of zinc chromate over the work and bare metal , this can be scuffed with a red scotchbrite pad and then primed over . i like to do things old school, i still use laquer primer,lead ,etc. and ive got a box full of air tools that i probably havent used twice,i block sand everything by hand lot of work but i love the outcome . straight as a grizzly's d**k lol . if i do any sand blasting afterwards i run a wire wheel over the surface to get the materials out of the metal ..
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