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Old 04-19-2012, 10:10 PM
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which primer out of the two?

I bought some used doors for my car, the oem finish in the paint is in good condition but there are a few dings that I have applied ever coat filler over. I have two primers narrowed down to as they are within my price range. car will be topcoated with tcp restoration ss urethane gloss black. I plan to use no sealer as the original finish is in great condition, just prime, block, prime, block then topcoat.

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Ureth...452402&sr=8-24
http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Epoxy...4891474&sr=1-1

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Old 04-19-2012, 11:00 PM
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You are looking at apples and oranges here. The epoxy primers are great for adhesion, moisture protection and also as sealers. Most 2k urethane primers are high build primer surfacers. The product you have posted the link too only shows to be a primer. If this is the case it may be good for adhesion but, is not going to give the build you need to hide minor imperfections, sand scratches etc. Be sure you purchase a "primer surfacer" that will give the build you need to be able to block sand it. Good luck.

John L
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:51 PM
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I sanded all the parts with 220 although there are some 150 scratches left over from shaping the filler. would any of these suffice? unfortunately I am on a rather small budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Kustom-Shop-KP...976235&sr=1-24

http://www.amazon.com/U-POL-URETHANE...976270&sr=1-43

http://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-Feath...sim_sbs_auto_4

http://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-Slick...sim_sbs_auto_3

If not either or those do you know of any under $100.00 shipped Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:13 AM
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The first 2 may work. They are the right type of primer anyway.

The third one (Featherfill G2) Is one of a couple of Featherfill primers. The tech sheet states it is especially designed to work well over epoxy primers. Not sure you want to use it on bare steel.

The last one you listed is Evercoat's Slick Sand. I have not used it personaly but have seen posts by several forum members who really like it. It is a product I am intending to try myself. Though I prefer not to prime over bare steel the tech sheet states it will work well. Might be a good choice.

Take pictures and let us know how you make out.

John L
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:06 PM
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The car wasn't brought down to bare steel, All I did was sand down the original finish past the clear coat, for the body work I sanded with 60 grit so the body filler had something to adhere to. there are some 150 scratches from shaping the filler. My local paint store is rather pricey so I'd rather order online, I finished all the dents/dings I just need to prime, but before I go ahead & order a primer I need to make sure it will fill in the scratches I made with the 150 & can be blocked with 400/600 then topcoated with a ss urethane *black* without scratches bleeding through. I've read through quite a bit of forums with featherfill g2 & slicksand, they all say those are a type of spray on body filler, not sure If I really need that at all as I am planning to do the whole body with it rather than just spot prime.

I was also looking at this primer, but it does not say anything about hiding body filler.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/fini...r-p-19128.aspx
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:52 PM
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Maybe this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Eve...5043720&sr=1-7

Sorry for all the questions, I am really starting to get confused. So what you're telling me is I should topcoat over a poly primer instead of a urethane primer? Epoxy primer is out of the question as I'm pretty sure it won't fill the 150 scratches
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:15 PM
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I was not suggesting that a polyester based product is better or worse than a polyurethane product. Only that you want a primer "surfacer". I can't tell you which one to pick. As you say, there some experienced guys here who each have there own favorites. I personally usually stay with PPG products but realize you are not interested in paying 140 dollars for a gallon of primer.

I am probably going to try the Slick Sand next time. I have heard several people say good things about it. Evercoat has been around forever and is a good company.

John L
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.sok
Maybe this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Eve...5043720&sr=1-7

Sorry for all the questions, I am really starting to get confused. So what you're telling me is I should topcoat over a poly primer instead of a urethane primer? Epoxy primer is out of the question as I'm pretty sure it won't fill the 150 scratches
Ok, here's the skinny:

Once you have the dents fixed you needa prime with something.
For just a couple of small dings, which only required a dab of putty, such as "Dolphin Glaze", or equivilant, I usually work the filler down with 180, and finish up with 320, apply a couple of thin coats of epoxy, scuff and paint.

Slick Sand, is one heckuva good product for a filler primer. It's pretty much sprayable bondo. A polyester based product, using MEKP as a hardener/catylist. You probably could have simply sprayed 3 coats of that, instead of using body filler. But it's reccomended to seal it prior to paint. (epoxy sealer comes to mind) Also a regular paint gun with a small fluid tip doesn't spray it very well. A 2mm or larger fluid tip is needed.

for your application, I would use a decent quality "2k" urethane primer surfacer. I use Mipa 4+1, and it works well. It's a high build, but can be reduced some with urethane reducer, for a "scuff primer".

If you want to keep expense down, and don't mind giving it an extra day or two between prime and paint, Laquer primer will do exactly what you want it to. No hardeners to buy, when yer done just pour it back in the can, no waste. And yer gonna have laquer thinner on hand anyway for clean-up.
Neat thing about laquer primer/surfacer, about 30 min. after you apply it, you can lightly sand it, and apply more.
The drawback to it is that while it "dries" quickly, (actually skins over), it takes a while for it to become completely cured. the cure process, can be expedited by "opening up" the final coat, with mabe 180 grit, then let it sit for a day or so. then guide coat, and wet sand, and paint.
Another thing to think about with laquer primer, don't do what some folks do, and mix it thick for a quick build. That don't work unless you have weeks. And sometimes it don't work then.
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:15 PM
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I would not recommend the lacquer primer. The SS urethane will soften it. If at anytime you break the surface there will be a ring where it lifts the paint. Sometimes saving money is just not worth it. If you are using 2k products stay with a 2k system. I don't even like to mix brands but I realize most people do it ever day. The problem is, the materials are getting so expensive people are having to cut corners trying to contain the cost.

John L
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:43 PM
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Ok I think I have my choices narrowed down. I just want to make sure either of these would be fine, Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Urethan...sim_sbs_auto_2


http://www.amazon.com/USC-Primer-Sur...5058870&sr=1-7


http://www.amazon.com/Kustom-Shop-KP...058248&sr=1-45

http://www.paintforcars.com/primer_max2k_grey.html


http://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-uretha...allon-4-1.html
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:44 PM
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Not familiar with SS urethane. Concept works well over laquer substrate.
If the laquer has had proper cure time.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:00 PM
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Wow! I didn't know Eliminator was still around. The second car I ever painted was in 1975. A 1947 Ford convertible I gave 90 dollars for. I owned the car until 1992 and sold it to a friend. I used Morton' Eliminator on it with catalysed acrylic enamel. Long story short, my budy still owns the car. It has never been repainted and even though there are plenty of rock chips over the years there is not a crack in it. Still looks good.

Eliminator was one of the first 2 part primers ever made. Was a good product then. I would think it still is. By the way, back then, there was no epoxy primers. I painted it on bare metel and top coated it with out a sealer. Hope yours lasts 37 years.

John L
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