[Dbodily]

Thanks for the reply Randy. I think I will do as you suggest, use SPI's primer and clear coat and HOK base and intermediate colors. Since you have used this approach with success it is obvious the systems are compatible. thanks again David Bodily

[outlaw17]

MARTINSR , the body itself was done first with what you are refering to as the 'polyester' stuff , then it was done out twice with the 'URO-FILL' .Then the parts were done the same way and painted the day after the car was , and as of this weekend the parts are now doing the same thing as the body .Looks as if we need to sand it all down and re-do it . We blocked the car out today and hopefully just applying a few coats of base and re-clearing it will do .

Too slow a flashing reducer, too cold shop temp, too slow gun travel, too much overlap, ALL of these conditions are EXACTLY the same as "not letting the primer dry long enough". I could have added "Too fast between coats" to my list, the condition it creates is exactly the same,"solvents" trapped in the film.

MARTINSR , do you mean this for the paint and clear ? The reason I ask is because the primer uses no reducers .

[MARTINSR]

Yes, I would be refering to the primers IF they used an "added" reducer. They have a reducer of course, but it is in the primer already. Other than the reducer choice the way it is applied as far as how "wet" will make the difference. I'll tell you something that polyester does not shrink, not any measureable amount. The urethane is what is likely shrinking.

It is being applied too heavy and not enough flash most likely. The paint and clear being applied too wet will contribute as well. But if the "foundation" (that primer) isn't fully cured because of being applied too wet, it is likely the root cause.

That polyester primer can sometimes be painted right over (check the tech sheets) so the urethane primer may be a waste of time. If you do use the urethane, finish the polyester primer off with 180 or 220 and then just a few med coats of urethane is all you need. Final sand it with 400-500 and you are good to go.

[mrcleanr6]

the spi products are definately compatable with the house of kolor line. everything that comes out of my shop uses that combination and i have to agree with randy on all the spi stuff, cant beat it. we use the epoxy, 2k high build, 2k sealer and universal clear. all awsome!!

click on thw www button below and goto the gallery, 90% of everything in it has been painted with spi and hok.