Primer Sealer ?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2004, 11:35 PM
Sagacious's Avatar
Do you feel like we do?
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: austin, TX
Age: 30
Posts: 122
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Primer Sealer ??

I need to primer my '73 Nova. Im looking for some black primer but for quite some time i've been told that i cant use primer sealer if i want to paint the car later. is that true at all? i've been using sandable primer. i have to keep wetsanding it every month or so to get the surface rust off. i want the car painted, but at a much later time when i can afford it. i'd like a primer sealer to keep the car from rusting in the meantime and still be able to leave it out in the rain if need be with no worries. any help is appreciated.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2004, 08:11 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,182
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,323
Thanked 1,162 Times in 1,025 Posts
I have no idea why someone would tell you that a primer/sealer can't be painted over, THAT is just what it is for. THAT is what the name implys.

"Primer"=over bare metal/"sealer" = to be top coated.

Get a good epoxy primer and cover that darn car before you get into trouble. Of course, if you have some "sandable" (sounds like it is out of a rattle can) on bare metal and you are seeing rust poking thru, you are going to have to remove all that primer and clean that metal up before you do anything.

If we are talking about a complete car and you are doing this in your spare time, I HIGHLY recommend you do a panel or two at a time. Strip that "sandable" primer off and epoxy prime it, then move on to the next panel or two your next "work time".
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2005, 11:49 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Elmira, NY
Age: 31
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
PPG DPLF... comes in quite a few colors, black being one of them. Its a little pricey but thats all you would need, one coat of that and you would be set..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2005, 08:56 AM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Our 69 Chevelle was lacquer primered when it got into my hands and was rusting thru.No vehicle should be left in a regular primer state for long especially if outdoors as the regular primer will absorb all sorts of contaminates which will murder your paint job later. I DA'd it and shot Dupont Nasson epoxy primer on. We had this for a year and a half while building the car and beating and banging finalizing things before the final body work and paint. One thing about epoxy though, It's HARD to sand later after curing till you get the top skin off but it won't rust thru anymore and is a great base to work from for the completion of the paint work as epoxy seals and is impervious to contamination. Hence the need to "scratch" it before applying anything.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2005, 11:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: los angeles
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It is important to know that many epoxy primers are not what they used to be. If they are LF (lead free they are junk). PPG DP 90 used to rock. Now in many states it if LF and is like water colors. It will wipe off with reducer! Do yourself a favor, if you are going to prime a vehicle before "really" painting it after stripping the paint, prime if then put some cheap urethane paint over it. You can get some that was mixed but not used from the paint store cheap. Cruising in just primer, even epoxy is not a good idea. If you can prime, you can do a bad temporary paint job over it. Don't worry about build up. You will be using the "temporary" paint as a filler when you block sand the entire car. It will almost all be sanded off.
*****If anyone knows of any professional mechanics, bodymen, fabricators, I am looking for employees for my shop in L.A. www.sakowskimotors.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 04:33 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 65
Posts: 4,110
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
agree with Martinsr, Epoxy it BUT you will have to keep it covered when outside.

The epoxy has poor UV protection, the Austin TX sun will destroy it fairly fast.

How much of the steel is exposed?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 05:17 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by sakowskimotors
It is important to know that many epoxy primers are not what they used to be. If they are LF (lead free they are junk). PPG DP 90 used to rock. Now in many states it if LF and is like water colors. It will wipe off with reducer! Do yourself a favor, if you are going to prime a vehicle before "really" painting it after stripping the paint, prime if then put some cheap urethane paint over it. You can get some that was mixed but not used from the paint store cheap. Cruising in just primer, even epoxy is not a good idea. If you can prime, you can do a bad temporary paint job over it. Don't worry about build up. You will be using the "temporary" paint as a filler when you block sand the entire car. It will almost all be sanded off.
*****If anyone knows of any professional mechanics, bodymen, fabricators, I am looking for employees for my shop in L.A. www.sakowskimotors.com
*************************************************

Let me try and clear this up a little.
What you say is very true and also not true. Yes if you have been loyal to a brand that used lead and than made a big deal out of not using lead LF you could have reason to hate epoxy at this point.

Starting from day one MOST automotive grade epoxy did not have lead in them. Including the first one sold in this market in around 1970 made by Glasurit.

A good epoxy will not wash off after setting a couple of days with urethane reducer or lacquer thinner. But what you said is true as a crap one will.

Hope this helped some, just didn't want you stereotyping all epoxy because of one.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 07:46 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
PPG's EPX900 is a good epoxy in the industrial coatings line that is economical- 2gallons of sprayable for about $100. It seems to be more durable than the DPLF IMO and I've used it on numerous jobs with great success. CRE-CT is also in the industrial line and is being used in auto restoration shops in my area, it offers a thicker build and is tintable, the military is testing it for certification at this time. I'll be doing some projects and testing with the CRE-CT soon. If the PPG rep suggests it then I'm comfortable with it. Epoxy does take quite awhile to fully cure, full cure is required for the product to be sandable. Do a search on PPG's website and you'll find the tech sheets for both of these products. Bob
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 08:02 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
the military is testing it for certification at this time. I'll be doing some projects and testing with the CRE-CT soon. If the PPG rep suggests it then I'm comfortable with it. [/B][/QUOTE]

***************************************
Sorry to inform you but I think your PPG rep is lying to you about certification.
Its not happening and it won't happen.
Only time the military on epoxy uses a different standard is for special projects that their current one (20+yrs) don't meet.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 08:10 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,839
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
I don't know what DPLF you used, or how you applied it, but the PPG DPLF I sprayed my frame with did not wipe off with reduced or lacquer thinner.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2005, 12:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: los angeles
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
DPLF 90

Call your PPG Representative. I called them when I was wiping off the epoxy with reducer (lightly and not very wet) when it started wiping off. Call Finishmasters in Los Angeles. He said his sales have fallen through the floor after the change to LF, and there have been failure problems etc.. I LOVE good epoxy primer, I used to SWEAR by DP90, but the new DPLF90 really blows. It scares me. Wil Sakowski, www.sakowskimotors.com Call me and I will give you the phone number Monday. If the primer had weeks to cure in hot weather, it probably wouldn't wipe off, but who knows how it will hold up. I don't want my customers and me to be the guinea pigs.

Vince, are you sure it was LF? I thought you still had the good stuff in Texas, unlike California.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.