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Old 01-25-2012, 06:12 PM
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Primering and painting my pitted wheels

I got my wheels back from the sandblaster. I was a little surpirsed to see how bad the pitting from the rust was...
[IMG]http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/11215/2103602070100701182S600x600Q8
5.jpg[/IMG]


These are steel OE GM wheels

At my disposal I have:
PPG DP40 Ethcing primer
Evercoat Feather Rite high build epoxy primer
Evercoat body filler
Evercoat body filler with short strang fiber glass
Spot putty
Paint
Thinner
Acetone

I am planning on painting these wheels and have some questions to make these look nice again:
I was thinking of spraying the DP40 first
Then spray the high build primer and layer it, lightly sand it.
Paint

1. Would the body filler hold to the wheels? if I wanted to put a little filler or spot putty between teh etching primer and the high build primer?
2. Would the high build primer be enough to fill the rust pits?
3. Is it even worth spraying the etching primer? Should I just go straight to the Epoxy/high build primer?

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Old 01-25-2012, 06:32 PM
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I would think that by the time you got some epoxy and paint on there, they would be fine

is this a show or driver?
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
I would think that by the time you got some epoxy and paint on there, they would be fine

is this a show or driver?
Not a show car at all. But, I don't want to half *** anything either. This car is my pride and joy that I am building with my own two hands.

I just don't have enough experience with paint right now...
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:57 AM
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right on

I think if you keep it basic, they will look fine
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:27 AM
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I would prime the wheels with the PPG DPFL. and then paint. The challenge will be to get even wet coats of primer, and paint on the wheels, without causing runs. Putting a high build primer between the DPLF, and the paint will be a PITA to sand out.

Since they are steel wheels, if you do not like the results, get some better wheels, and paint those. You will probably be able to better paint the second set of wheels, with the practice from the first set.



When I painted my wheels, I actually used a light first coat of PPG 1790/1791 wash primer, then DPLF, then Dupont Centari, with 793S hardener. The color is Dupont 817 White, GM code 14, 1995 pickup.
I painted the wheels flat, on a board, covered with masking paper. I supported the wheels on small pieces of a broken paint stick, in three places. Paint the back side first, turn the wheel over, paint the front. That way, the overspray from the front of the wheel ends up on the back of the wheel, where it is less obvious.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:54 PM
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Update

Guys,
I appreciate everyone chiming in. But like I said, I was planning to spray this weekend AND I DID.
I sprayed about two coats of PPG epoxy primer on the clean wheels.
I let the wheels dry for about 1 hour, then sprayed the wheels with the featherfill.

I have NOT sanded the featherfill yet. I definitely need to spray more of the featherfill primer on the wheels. I ran out of time over the weekend and had to stop spraying.
I want to hear your critques and advice. I am posting pictures before I sand so that you can help coach me with the proper spray procedure and process.

Here is a picture of my "Paint Booth". I learned that the wheels were hanging way to high up. I also learned that I should have spaced them out more.


Here is what the PPG DP50 looked like.




Why is there an orange peel look? I thought that primers went on smoother than paint. Is this normal? IF NOT, what was wrong with my setup which created this problem?

Here are pictures of the featherfill primer.


You can see in this picture areas where the primer was CAKED on and other areas where it wasn't.


REDNECK Christmas ornament

Dried for a day like this.


Dried for a day like this.

My drying time was overkill, but I wasn't working on the wheels so i figured. WHY NOT.

Please critique away
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:45 AM
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I was going to say to be careful when you opend the garage door to leave after your done....It reminds me of the time I hung floresent lights and when I opend the door I busted them all ...but it looks like you didnt have that problem..
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:02 AM
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I think the "orange peel" you are seeing is just the unevenness of the base metal showing through.

I would sand the wheels before you spray again. May as well knock down the high spots now, instead of making them even higher.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:09 PM
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Oh heck yes sand them first.
1. Poly primer DOESN'T stick well at all to unsanded surfaces. Which is why we recommended only spray the poly primer where you REALLY need it. As it is a bugger to sand, and it MUST be sanded or nothing will stick to it.

2. It can be very deceiving on filling pits like you have. It may LOOK like it didn't fill it, but there is a very good chance that just a few coats would have filled those pits. I am not kidding, without any exaggeration what so ever, you could tape a dime to a fender and apply three or four good coats and BURY that dime, it fills that much.

Brian
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:30 PM
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You better get a bunch of those sanding sponges I cant think of anything else that would be better ....
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
You better get a bunch of those sanding sponges I cant think of anything else that would be better ....
What sanding sponges are you talking about?
I was thinking of sanding all the wheels by hand. Especially this first bit of sanding is just to rough it all up so that the next layer of primer will stick.

Quote:
Oh heck yes sand them first.
1. Poly primer DOESN'T stick well at all to unsanded surfaces. Which is why we recommended only spray the poly primer where you REALLY need it. As it is a bugger to sand, and it MUST be sanded or nothing will stick to it.

2. It can be very deceiving on filling pits like you have. It may LOOK like it didn't fill it, but there is a very good chance that just a few coats would have filled those pits. I am not kidding, without any exaggeration what so ever, you could tape a dime to a fender and apply three or four good coats and BURY that dime, it fills that much.

Brian
I was always planning to sand them before the next coat. But, i will spend a little more time sanding to try and get everything nice and even.

One thing I did when I sprayed the poly primer was use a 1.4mm tip rather than the recommended 1.7mm tip size. This made the sparying process alot more time consuming but I didn't build up too much thickness because of this.

WHAT GRIT should i end with to make sure the next coat of primer sticks?

Any other advice?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:13 PM
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They make special ones for paint prep at the paint store but they are expensive You can go to any lumber store like lowes and find sanding sponges that work very well.sand your primer with 180 reprime and sand with 320 or 400 seal and paint
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:09 AM
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scuff pads

I buy a box of mirka red or grey pads, in your case red, for about 15 bucks. appox. 5 of those will finish your wheels, i would not waste my time on the backside. That is pitted finish coming through your seeing, not orange peel. Yes you can use guide coat in this situation too. It never ever hurts, and will tell you when you finally have enough primer on there after you have sanded that all of your guide coat will be gone and you can't see the pitted metal either. Then you can use a grey scuff pad, which is equivalent to approx 320/400 and lightly finish sand with that. clean well, blow it off with air, tack rag and shoot your color and or bc/cc. Now a whole new book can be wrote about how well you can paint. SS metallics are not easy to spray without mottling etc, unless you know what your doing, a ss solid color is much easier. If your going with the standard argent silver, i would use a bc/cc. But you have to be good at painting because, runs, dust nibs, orange peel etc. will be very hard to cut and buff out of the wheel. Practice, practice, practice.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diety motorsports
I buy a box of mirka red or grey pads, in your case red, for about 15 bucks. appox. 5 of those will finish your wheels, i would not waste my time on the backside. That is pitted finish coming through your seeing, not orange peel. Yes you can use guide coat in this situation too. It never ever hurts, and will tell you when you finally have enough primer on there after you have sanded that all of your guide coat will be gone and you can't see the pitted metal either. Then you can use a grey scuff pad, which is equivalent to approx 320/400 and lightly finish sand with that. clean well, blow it off with air, tack rag and shoot your color and or bc/cc. Now a whole new book can be wrote about how well you can paint. SS metallics are not easy to spray without mottling etc, unless you know what your doing, a ss solid color is much easier. If your going with the standard argent silver, i would use a bc/cc. But you have to be good at painting because, runs, dust nibs, orange peel etc. will be very hard to cut and buff out of the wheel. Practice, practice, practice.
I am used the original paint color: Fiesta Cream with Gold metal flakes
It's going to be an interesting combo...
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:10 PM
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paint

ss or bc/cc? enamel or urerothane?
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