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Old 09-01-2009, 11:08 PM
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priming your engine

well the other night I went threw 3 dewalt batteries trying to get oil up through my pushrods.I cannot get oil through 5 pushrod cylider 1,3,and intake on 5. I've tried turning the engine over a little at a time and nothing.
Im getting 60 psi on a mech gauge. I have comp cams solid lifters with the oiling hole on the face of the lifter. I dont know what else to do.

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Old 09-01-2009, 11:46 PM
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The GM distributor body forms part of the drivers side lifter gallery bore.
When the distributor is out of the motor, the oil just dumps back down the open distributor oil drive shaft hole back to the pan.
Oil up your rockers etc by hand and button it up and not to worry. It will have pressure and flow when you start it with the distributor installed.
Next time get a oil prime tool with the collar on the shaft or make one from a old distributor.
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:01 AM
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Forget rechargeable and get a good 1/2" drill that plugs into the wall.
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:12 AM
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I don't understand all this flap about these fellows having problems priming the motor. I have always used the proper priming tool and a 3/8" plug-in drill motor and have never had a problem. If you run the drill motor for only about 10 seconds, it will labor down in rpm's, telling you that the pump is pumping oil through the galleys. If you have a buddy with a long bar on the crank to turn the motor over 2 complete revolutions while you're doing the priming, you're done. The whole operation takes less than 2 minutes.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=25140
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:06 PM
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The key word here is buddy.....lol.....doing it by yourself takes longer than 2 minutes!!
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:40 PM
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I've never had a problem using the proper priming tool and spinning it for about a minute or two. The proper priming tool has a disc that fits in the gallery bore which provides enough resistance to get oil up through the pushrods. But even if I don't have that, you've still done the important part; priming the pump. As long as the bearings have oil, and the pump is ready to provide instant pressure, and as long as you have properly used assembly lube and oil on the valvetrain, no worries. Fire it up and enjoy.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
I've never had a problem using the proper priming tool and spinning it for about a minute or two. The proper priming tool has a disc that fits in the gallery bore which provides enough resistance to get oil up through the pushrods. But even if I don't have that, you've still done the important part; priming the pump. As long as the bearings have oil, and the pump is ready to provide instant pressure, and as long as you have properly used assembly lube and oil on the valvetrain, no worries. Fire it up and enjoy.
Sorry, but I have to disagree ... and I have a failed cam to prove my point.

I bought the priming tool ... the problem was that my buddy only had a cordless drill. As soon as the pump was primed, the cordless drill stopped dead in it tracks. We thought "instant oil pressure as soon as it fires", too.

During the more recent "round 2" break-in ... I discovered that the old B&D 3/8 corded drill didn't fare much better. I reached for my new 3/8 air drill, and found that it was just barely adequate for the job ... needed the full 125 PSI to keep it going!

I was going to be sure that EVERYTHING was dripping wet this time. I was solo this time, and it took a fair bit of time to get that 15W40 Rotella coming out of all the pushrods. I ran it (not continuously though) for a total of about 10 minutes (?) until all of the roller rockers were completely filled and had oil running back into the return holes in the head. Instant pressure, sure ... but it takes a lot of time to get that oil flowing.

I also poured the last quart of engine oil down through these holes to make sure that there was oil in the lifter valley. (Not taking any chances!)
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBCMudbogger
The key word here is buddy.....lol.....doing it by yourself takes longer than 2 minutes!!
Understand, although it doesn't take that much longer to leave the drill motor sittin' on the tool stem and giving the long bar on the crank a quarter turn at a time between firing up the drill motor for a few seconds again. Repeat as necessary.

All I'm saying is that it isn't rocket surgery and doesn't take that long to do.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:04 AM
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Just went through this yesterday with the DeSoto Hemi I put together...I used a 1/2" drill motor to prime, and a remote starter Once oil was flowing pretty good through everything, I ticked the engine over every couple of seconds as the drill motor was running...30 lbs of pressure...
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
Sorry, but I have to disagree ... and I have a failed cam to prove my point.
This is such a common misconception. Pre-oiling an engine doesn't do anything at all for cam lobes. Cams get oil strictly from crank splash. You can spin an oil pump for three days and not get a drop of oil on the cams. Pre-oiling pressurizes oil in the galleries, but lobes don't get pressurized oil.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
This is such a common misconception. Pre-oiling an engine doesn't do anything at all for cam lobes. Cams get oil strictly from crank splash. You can spin an oil pump for three days and not get a drop of oil on the cams. Pre-oiling pressurizes oil in the galleries, but lobes don't get pressurized oil.
I understand that.
But I also know that there are openings above the cam that I believe are there to allow motor oil to drip onto the cam and lobes from above.



Sure ... I was a little paranoid after having one cam destroyed already. My engine builder blamed the cam failure on improper lubrication, so I was going to make *sure* that I couldn't be blamed again ... even went so far as to take some videos.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:19 PM
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Thats not a lack of lubrication failure, that is a lack of proper lifter rotation failure - burr in lifter bore or on lifter, or lifter bore to lifter clearance too tight/not verified i.e. lifter on high side of diameter spec, bore on low side of spec.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:59 PM
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Those windows are more for venting than anything else. Oil drains back at the extreme front and back of the block. The chances that those front and rear drains would experience overflow that would let the oil drain through the center windows is about one in a million. Put it this way... if you had enough volume of oil flow that those windows would actually drain overflow oil, you would have long since sucked the pan dry. The whole point of the front/rear drain is to keep crank windage to a minimum. Letting oil drain there would be counterproductive to that effort.

Not to mention, priming the oil pump before firing certainly wouldn't give those lobes oil. That is one of the main reasons why lobes get break-in lube. Think about it... why would you use break-in lube if simply priming the pump dumped enough oil on the lobes for operation? Even if you primed the pump and were able to get oil to drain down on the lifters, it wouldn't wash off the break-in lube - nor would you want it to.

Spinning the pump to lube the cam lobes is like watering the rosebush by the door and expecting it to keep your whole lawn green. Crank splash is the whole reason why flat cam break-in proceedures dictate running the engine at fast idle for 20 minutes - because there isn't enough splash at idle to keep the lobes lubed for break in. If the engine supplied enough drainback oil, the extra RPM wouldn't be needed.
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:08 PM
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Thanks EricNova.

That explanation makes a whole lot more sense to me than "improper lubrication". I had to wonder when it was just one lobe.

That being said though ... I have to admit that the intitial break-in did not go exactly according to my plan. (I posted all of the details on that well over one year ago.)

I'm just happy that the new cam seems to have survived.
It's also a little "lumpier" (XE280) than the first one ... so it's all good.
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