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View Poll Results: Are Pro Comp parts worth buying?
Yes, the price is too good to pass up. 21 21.00%
No, Pro Comp parts are off shore junk. 30 30.00%
Only if they have good reviews. 51 51.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 100. You may not vote on this poll

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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:47 PM
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Hey Cobalt

I didn't really want to enter the discussion because I have zero experience with anything made or distributed by these folks. What did come to mind when someone mentioned different colors in the aluminum, was reddish portions are where the Budweiser cans were, the blueish portion Miller Lite, the green is Sprite, yellow gold is Coors. HAA olnolan
Oh, I did vote.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag327
This thread could help a lot of people if more people would stick with the parts they used from procomp or no of some 1 that used there items, And make comments from there.

I have all so used 2 procomp mini starter work find turn the motors over very fast.
Ok, let me add: I have one pro comp mini starter. It was too close to the flywheel when not in use, so the bendix wheel slightly touched the flywheel when the bendix was in the resting position.

I made a shim between the starter and the aluminium block and this helped a bit, but it still touched the flywheel no and then. It didn't stop before I changed out the starter bolts that came with the starter. The enclosed bolts was not starter bolts. Just plain oridnary bolts.
In addition to that: the ovarall impression of the starter is flimsy: All rubber details are thin and soft compared to the same details on another starter I have. Same with the plastic and copper details were the wires are attached: It feels thin, weak and brittle compard to the other one.

I was probably among the unlucky 5% and you among the 95% lucky ones in this case.

It do turns the motor quite fast around, tow. But for how long?

Last edited by staleg; 01-23-2010 at 07:33 AM.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
What did come to mind when someone mentioned different colors in the aluminum, was reddish portions are where the Budweiser cans were, the blueish portion Miller Lite, the green is Sprite, yellow gold is Coors. HAA olnolan
Good one!

Quote:
Oh, I did vote.
Thank you, sir- appreciate it!
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2010, 07:44 PM
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I have 2 procomp mini starters 1 on 327 sbc and the other on 372 mopar motor. Line right up, turns both motors over very fast.

I had a 2 items from procomp that was not right, 1 of the I beam rods had a cut in it. When I talk the seller to send 1 back they said OK, When the box came in there's 1 new rod and 16 arp bolts. I'm very happy.

The other was a set of valve coves. Sent them back they was replace right away.

I have another mini starter I bought from another supplier. I had it for about 8 months only install a few weeks ago it went out. Man no warranty because I should have install it with in 30 days after I bought it.

On my starters no plastic parts what so every, Look just like what summit and jegs sales. I could not tell them apart.

Last edited by jag327; 01-23-2010 at 07:55 PM.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2010, 05:59 PM
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85 Cutlass

Whats up guys I'm new to the forum. But I just purchased a set of sbc 210 heads fro PC and so far every thing looks good with the heads, they are not installed yet because of intake issues but I will let every one know if they are good or junk.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:47 PM
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i read a post over on the moparts.com board, & one of the guys there has a 340 chrysler that has ran the pro comp aluminum roller rockers on a drag race engine for over two years now without any problems. maybe he got lucky, or maybe their getting better.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2010, 02:22 PM
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Hey Yall,

Well i have a set of the Pro Comp 190 cc heads and a set of their 1.6 roller rockers and stud girdle for a ford 351 W. I did have the heads checked as well and the only thing that was found by my cylinder head guy was excessive casting flash, no big deal, easy fix. Right now my motor is together and everything matched up fine. Just for and extra twist I am also using a twin T3/T4 turbo kit (The $1,400 ebay kit) with these heads so we will see if they really do what they say they do and that is work on turbo builds. It should be interesting.

I have seen people bash all of the parts used and i have also seen very successful builds with these same parts. My reason for using these parts, not that i need to justify myself to anyone, is b/c of price and the good reviews that i have seen. If these parts were to fail, yeah then its my own fault and its a lesson learned. But when that $1600 set of heads fails how pissed off are you going to be.

There is human error in everything we do, so there is always a chance for a failure in any part no matter who the manufacturer is. Im not even close to bringing the motor to life as of yet, I still have alot of work to do on the car which is a 66 mustang restomod. But as soon as it is up in running i will give yall a full review. Some of our pockets are not as deep as others so we have to buy what we can afford. Know matter who makes the part all we can do is hope that the parts we spend our hard earned money on turns out to be a good quality part and in the end does not come back and bite us in the rear.

The person that inspected my heads has his own race shop and builds motors for alot of the local racers. When talking with him, he has been working with Pro Comp heads for the past few yrs. He said that he has found a way to port the and and make some really nice power. And on top of that he said that the heads hold up really good. Just so you know hes not a dealer for the heads. This was just his personal opinion.

Last edited by SouthernRascal39; 03-25-2010 at 10:02 AM.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 12:57 PM
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I broke a procomp rocker arms shaft

The 1.6 x 7/16 studs they work find up to about 6800 rpm for about 7 runs at the track but when I went pass 7300 rpm that when 1 shaft broke. But I did not have a stud girdle install so could be my fault it broke. Buy skip white is where I got them from they are sending my a replacement rocker arm.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 05:40 PM
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I am using a stud girdle with mine just for the added protection
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 05:54 PM
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The funny thing I have 1 but just don't not install at the time. But it's going on it now. When to new rocker arm come in.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2010, 11:03 PM
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i bought bbc 7/16 one piece heat treated push rods
they were way cheaper than any other 7/16
and i figured being one piece not much could go wrong
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2010, 01:54 AM
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i know its over 100 days old but so are most of the other threads..

I have had good and bad experience with PC products..

i have a thread about my truck build here and i used ALOTof PC stuff..

The only bad:

First off the HEI billet distributor only lasted about 8 months before it started giving me problems in my 502. It was replaced with another from the vendor and i have since sold the truck.

second .. I bought a used 190cc sbc heads from a friend who had to have them milled and the guides replaced..I paid $375 which was what he paid for the machine work.. Heads were only a few months old and less then 500 miles.. i put them on my fathers camaro and only got about 200 miles on them before a seat shattered.. it was an all stock 305 too..

So its not rather they are good or bad as a whole but the question is are the parts used any good.. Well its a crap shoot. Its a gamble you play when buying a cheaper product with questionable materials.

i see the problem as being with Quality control..IMO

My only other gripe is Skip made a point to stand up for the heads and other pc products in another thread but he constantly ignored the question: What valve guide and seat material is used in the heads?? Sorry but if you have the type of facility u show too and the tons of experience with these , then you would know what material is used..

I must agree with everyone else on u get what u pay for..But u could get lucky..

Last edited by dually502; 05-21-2010 at 01:59 AM.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:51 PM
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At least preliminary evidence suggests that one of the PC HEI distributors might be the same as a name brand unit costing a lot more. More to be added if anyone wants to or as I find it.

The only obvious difference was the packaging and a sticker, IIRC.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2010, 03:00 PM
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I picked up a new set of ProComp 210cc heads that had been ordered as bare and then checked and assembled...(TODAY)

I got them for a good price, cheap enough that the rr's on them would give me back half my money if i sold them..

These heads look completely different then the gm style heads i bought, I mean as far as the general quality of the castings and workmanship. Granted these are going on a SBF but the quality of these just blows my mind over the others..

The sbc heads were pulled and the seats replaced and we havent had a problem since...
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2010, 04:01 PM
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Wow, what goes around comes around. I remember posting about Professional Products and how it was garbage for people to buy the knockoffs of Edelbrock manifolds just to save what amounted to a nickel a week. Edelbrock does the engineering and research and some cheap *** goes to a knock off to save 20 bucks? It's wrong. Now people are wondering about $649 heads? Seriously? I bet the porosity of those heads is atrocious. No thanks. I'll support Dart which are machined in Michigan, Edelbrock poured and machined in California, Brodix poured and machined in Tennessee, GMPerformance Parts Bowtie Vortecs machined in Michigan, World Product heads machined in Michigan, the list goes on. Shame on you if you can't find something off that particular list.

Here's the real kicker, how much do you think White actually pays for those heads? This guy is making at least a 50% markup as the distributor of these heads. He probably pays $150-$200 for those bare heads. I'll pass.
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