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Wax will not protect it any more, but will help cover and buff marks or fine scratches for a better look.
The paint manufacturers say to wait 30 days before waxing so the solvents can finish escaping. No problem painting over it. Just clean and sand like you should be doing every time anyway. Armorall is a big NO NO!!! It will contaminate the surface like you can't even believe! ...and don't ever... under any circumstances... use it in your shop! If you do, you will find out why I am warning you so strongly! }:-( |
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Sorry, I haven't compared those kinds of products. I just know that I had some mintruck clientel in the '80s that used it on their interiors and tires, and I have a really hard time painting over the outer body.
WD40 is an even worse contaminant. One of my guys was using it on some rusty bolts while I was painting a '29 Ford delivery. It got through the booth filters, and I would estimate the "fisheyes" in the hundreds! You can't sand those out! You have to fill 'em! It went on to be the NSRA Western Division Street Rod of the Year.... but I had to work my butt off! :-( |
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quality polish will add to the uv protection and protect the surface from contaminates. bugs and dirt come off easier too. i polish with mothers canuba wax as soon as i am through buffing. ask those painters what wax and grease remover is for .
i'm not a fan of synthetics waxes . |
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there are an array of mequiars products that are paint shop safe, thats all i use for any sort of detailing. #40 is great for interior.
stay away from the armorall...black magic...etc. |
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wd40 ... water displacement sample #40 . there is no silicone in wd40 . thought so for years but there is none. still dont like it near my paint work .
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My experiences with WD40 were 20 years ago, and I haven't had a can around since then. Maybe they reformulated??? ...or there is/was something else in it that caused the problems???
I was not a beginner then... and I can only say that it was not imagined!!! :-( |
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nope. formula is the same and secrete . i lost 50 bucks over this once. there is no silicon in it but i still don't care for it being near paint.
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I don't know what's in wd40, but I saw first hand how it killed a paint job in progress 15-20 years ago! A porter was spraying it near the air compressor one day when the painter came over to verify why his job went south. The paint booth was a hundred or so feet away from the compressor, the wd was sprayed within 10 ft of the compressor, the paint went to hell with craters. Whoops!
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WD40 was reformulated a number of years ago but that was to eliminate benzene from it. When I started with DuPont in 1981 you could not find a can of WD40 on site anywhere because of the benzene content.
Vince |
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I kinda agree with "Shine'". I have done a few BC/CC paint jobs. Some of them have come home from our local car shows with awards
. We live in a high temp/low humidity world out here in the desert. Let the solvents dry out and wax as much as you can. It works. It's also a good way to take care of single stage. I have one that I did about six years ago. It sits outside in the sun everyday and still looks good because the guy that owns it applies wax on a regular schedule. By the way, I have painted two airplanes. It comes out the same way. It's all good if you take care of the finish after you get to the finish. "Juss sayin"Chris |
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Nothing wrong with waxing your paint.
(properly cured paint that is) It sure seems to make my car easier to keep clean. and it does seem to offer a little protection. I have had paint jobs with no wax for over 3 yrs and still look great, but waxing it sure wouldn't hurt anything. And useing a good wax with polish in it will suprise you the ground in dirt it will remove if it's been a while, just like a clay bar will do too.
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