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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldguy48 View Post
Back to the original question, how about a Ford type starter solenoid, controlled by a normally open foot switch, or even a push button. Power it from a battery charger or a car battery, and connect the solenoid in the ground lead circuit. No modifications to the welder, and easy to hook up.
Now that's a good idea! I also thought about an emergency stop buttom from some kind of industrial machine that you could just press with your foot, but it would have capable of carrying probably at least 30 amps or more.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2013, 02:52 PM
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Easy/Free way to leave the wire attached.

If you are using a wire feed welder you can start your weld and then let go of the trigger. Then disconnect your ground wire and you will be able to feed wire by pressing the trigger and no current will flow.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2013, 04:49 PM
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Maybe a safer way to accomplish this is to simply run an additional feed wire to the spool motor operated by a momentary switch. Then you would stop your weld as normal by releasing the trigger, but the wire would continue to feed until you released the motor switch (probably foot operated).
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2013, 06:08 PM
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The Bumblebee stud welder is rather nice indeed. We usually don't weld the studs on very tight, and are often able to pull them off or cut them off with sidecutters and reuse them a couple of times. This doesn't put as much heat into the panel, and there's a lot less grinding. It also means that you're not able to pull as hard without the stud coming off, but often that's not a Bad Thing.

Anyway, for the MIG idea, I think you're working too hard. Tack the wire to the panel, shut down the welder, and loosen the wire tension. You shouldn't have any trouble pulling the wire through the gun that way.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2013, 07:03 PM
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Use a coat hanger or some metal stick you can melt into the weld puddle.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:27 PM
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Not sure if someone mentioned this yet (hopefully I didn't over look it) But Eastwood company actually makes an adapter for a mig welder to weld on studs. Pretty cool attachment they also have one for spot welding. Check them out. Eastwood.com
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:51 PM
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You could use some ox-acetylene rod in a 16th to 1/8th diameter.. The raw length of rods are 36 inches long. Take lineman's pliers and bend an 1/8th - 1/4 inch long L-shape at the end for a spot tack. Weld it on and cut it off to your usable puller length with the pliers.

Or yeah I have covered holes up to 1/2'' by "bridging them with wire" set my wire tension lite, voltage low and increase the speed enough so I'm kind of welding lightly, takes practice.

But I like to "cheat my heat" welding with a thicker piece of metal to thin; like the thicker (o-a) rod to your .020 weld wire to the sheetmetal body. You have a way to stretch your arc into the base metal but no burn through it... Whatever shape of surface you want to restore or fix right; grab an old door or fender that best represents what your working on and practice your ideas and skills, filler material, paints or aftermarket tools.

Then you will figure it out.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:55 PM
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HTP and Eastwood both sell a gas cup for mig that will let you set regular studs with just a quick weld.Drop a stud in the little side tube in the gas cup and zap done! I doubt very much you'll pull anything using mig wire. like someone already said just tack on some washers but buy the cheapest unplated ones you can find plating needs more weld current to burn that the sheetmetal you'll either get a poor bond to the washer or burn through your sheetmetal because yoiu'll use higher heat than needed.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:39 AM
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Guys,I have a stud welder,studs,etc...What I'm trying to do is use the migs wire to pull the small dings and dents with a tiny little grind spot in the paint...The problem Im having is when I break ground contact and the current stops ,the wire seperates from the weld insted of welding the wire to the metal ..it seems to be a matter of timing because Ive done it but its hit and miss...I havent had much time to play around with it so far this week but try it ,it's pretty tough to do ...If I can figure it out It'll be pretty handy.I did get a ford solinoid at the parts store when I was there so when do have the time I'll have everything I need to try it out...I just dont think its going to be that simple...But you never know...everything starts with an idea..

Heres a little trick for you stud welder guys...welding the studs lightly and wiggling them side to side after pulling will sometimes work for pulling them off intact But you can reuse 100% of your studs even if you clip them off, all you have to do is bend them at a 90 so they have a little L shape...
dont forget to clean that tip and outer ground ring ,its an elactrical connection and to get the best preformance you need clean contacts,this will cut down the burn throughs and allow better quick zaps
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 08:15 AM
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The DawgHouse

Simple try a ground disconnect, no ground no weld. Still feeds
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Heres what I need to do.I want to be able to cut off the welding current while not stopping the wire feed...Mabee a foot control or something...what I want it to do is weld the wire to the metal then cut off the current while still feeding the wire out so the wire is welded to the metal then I can cut off the wire from the torch and use the wire to pull dents out...thereby eliminating the need for a stud welder...I need to know if a foot switch is what I want and if so where do I connect it..Is it even possible????
Any thoughts???
Well, I've never thought about it but, most migs have a tension adjustment for the wire feed. If you loosen the adjustment substantially you would be able to tack, let off the trigger and pull out on the gun to get however much wire you want, cut it off with dykes, repeat until you have the amount of "pullers" you want. Might take a few experiments to get the tension correct. Never tried but dont see why it wouldn't work. I've got a couple of migs and think I'll try it myself.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 02:49 PM
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A simple kill switch would work......like a foot switch that when completely compressed you have the power for the arch as you release it about a1/2 way or less the spool motor will work but not the arch........
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 02:57 PM
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Dawghouse I just saw your post and your idea with my foot switch which would disconnect the ground...would work great
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:33 PM
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how about if you maintain a puddle and then while the wire is still dipped in the puddle, quit pulling the trigger on your mig unit. then you can release the drive wheel from pushing your wire through the sheath of your mig lead. pull on the mig handle and the wire will remain attached to the puddle. get out your dykes, cut it, and that should do it.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 11:05 PM
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wow alot of theory

A diagram of the CONTROL CIRCUIT is needed.

Only switch the control power not the main power to the step down transformer or the IGBT or MOSFET in a Welder.

An IGBT /MOSFET doesnt like counter EMF when the ground is pulled off.

Separating the motor control solenoid from the arc firing circuit should be easy

with a diagram.

A foot pedal has a variable rheostat in it ,it doesnt shut current off all at once

it goes from 0-high then high -0, you could put a switch in it for just off and on

like a 15 amp light switch But have to know how much current follows thru the circuit,shouldnt be much at all,unless something else is pulling some amps,on the same control circuit.

I like your idea makes sense good luck with it.
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