[horvath]

My engine, even after warming up, is idling at like 1850 rpm ... when I put it in gear, it's idling at around 850 rpm. It's always idled a bit high because of the gear drive wanting more rev when it's in gear (I guess) but it seems too high now that I've finished my EZ-Wire kit.

Problem is, my idle adjustment screw is all the way out -- I can't lower the idle any further using the screw ... so what do I do? Is there another way to play with the idle?

I've got a 350 SB with a Rochester Quadrajet carb, Edlebrock Performer manifold, mild Hyd cam, gear drive, dual exhaust, and a new electric choke ...

Thanks.

Alan Horvath
<a href="http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/" target="_blank">54 Chevy Pickup</a>

[ May 11, 2003: Message edited by: horvath ]</p>

[johnsongrass1]

First of all, your gear drive won't effect idle speeds so throw that thoery out the window. Second, sounds as if the carb will never come down off the fast idle cam on the carb. 1850 is around the fast idle rpm when cold. Maybe even a little high. Check the choke operation and one more thing to look at is why the engine comes down to a 850 idle just putting it in gear thats a really large drop just to engage the transmiision.. Maybe the carb isn't adjusted well enough to idle well with a curb idle speed of 850 in park/neutral and 700 in gear.

[troy-curt]

I agree with johnsongrass, the gear drive will not affect the idle speed, also the wireing wantaffect it eather, unless it is interfearing with the linkage. check the fast idle adjustment on the choke, i`ve seen this happen lots of times.
When you pull it in gear its normal to drop rpm,how much depends on the tourqe converter, it probably clunks pretty hard from 1850 down to stall. If every thing looks good at the choke you might check for a vacumn leak. goodluck

[roys63]

do you still have about 12 volts at the electric choke stat? and a ground after your rewire.

[horvath]

johnsongrass1 : My electric choke has been acting funny ... I'm afraid I'm totally void of knowledge about what to do to check the choke operation. I searched the knowledge base for "electric choke" but couldn't find anything to help me out. Can you give me some direction or point me to info I can read?

The drop down to 850 idle in gear is disturbing to say the least, but it doesn't bang into gear - thank goodness. I don't know about the carb, it's a Rochester Q-jet and it's a bit old looking ... the electric choke is new, but it's been erratic.

troy-curt : The wiring is no where near the linkage. Forgive me, but how do I check the fast idle adjustment on the choke? I'll check all the vaccum hoses tomorrow. Thanks, man.

roys63 : There's one wire going to the electric choke ... I don't know about a ground wire -- is there suppose to be a ground wire on the choke?? I'll check the voltage at the choke stat tomorrow.

I sure appreciate the help -- I want to enjoy my ride!

THANKS.

Alan

[bigwildgrin]

every one has given you good advice and I just want to add one small thing to check. rochesters are nautorious for wearing out the shaft that opens the butterflys (there is probably a name for this dohinky but I have no clue as to what it is). when this happens they leak air and as a result no longer idle very well. you can check this pulling/pushing on the shaft as if you were trying to remove it from the carb. there should be no play here; if there is it could be your problem. the only cure I know of is to replace the carb. hope this helps.

[horvath]

bigwildgrin : Thanks - I'll check that tomorrow, too. If there's play in it, I'll be asking which carb is best -- Rochester or Edelbrock? I'm betting on Edelbrock.

Alan

[jimfulco]

Loose throttle shafts can be fixed with bushings at a good carb shop. The weight on the right front of the carb hooked to the choke linkage can sometimes stick in the up position, causing the fast idle to stay on.

[ May 12, 2003: Message edited by: jimfulco ]</p>

[horvath]

More good info - THANKS Jim.

I'll be messing with it today ... we'll see if I can figure this puppy out.

Alan

[horvath]

roys63 : You had it, bro' ... part of it at least. I checked the voltage at the choke and couldn't get a reading. Turns out the choke was on the same fuse as the electric fuel pump, and since I don't have an electric fuel pump, I took the fuse out and reserved the wire for future use. Put the fuse back in and got a reading at the choke. THANKS!

I've played around all morning, but I'm still getting 1500 rpm in neutral/park and 700-750 in gear.

I'm thinking about scrapping this old Rochester and replacing it ... do I stay with a Quadrajet? Or is a 2 bbl gonna do me just as well, considering I'm not into racing or anything like that.

What's your suggestions, my friends?

I'm wondering if a manual choke wouldn't be better than electric - opinions, please.

And, after looking at all the carbs in Summit and Jeg's, I'm thinking my best bet is the 2bbl Edelbrock -- 600 CFM Performer Series 1400 - am I off base or on? I've got the Edelbrock Performer manifold.

Thanks.

Alan

[johnsongrass1]

I would recomend going with the edelbrock 1407. It will fit right on to your intake with minor modifications and will still feed the right amouts of air for good power. a two barral carb will give you great drivability but will sacrifice some power. The 1407 will give you the best of both worlds. Their easy to tune and usaully work well right out of the box.

Congrates on finding the problem. It's always the hardest part!