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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Accelerator pump link on a 1405/1406 goes in the center hole.

Super simple carb for the average guy ---
7/16 float level, 15/16 float drop. Follow the IB for the proper jets, rods and springs. You do have to read it a couple times for it to make sense. This is the first of 2 1405's (one with the choke option) I rebuilt last week - the other and still cruddy(!!) is behind it:



Timing should be no more then 10* BTDC

Ford OEM distributors only run on ported vacuum - pass side port on a 1405/6. Cap the other small one off or if you have a C4, run that line to the transmission

The front big vacuum port is for the PCV, rear for power brakes.

This photo shows #1, and the distributor rotates CCW as you look down on it (this is an HO wired dist, but #1 stays in the same place either way)



Get a vacuum gauge on that engine. If it has a stock camshaft, it will run 17-21 inches (mine is 17-18 with a medium warm camshaft)

Unless you understand pedestal mount rocker arms, don't disassemble until you do - they can and WILL cause you to suffer acid reflux
Hi Dave and Ace hogger. I am thinking the cam timing is out if you have dialled your distributor in at around 8 and still have to go to 18 for it to run.
That would be about a tooth out on the camtiming. By the way upstater , what is a "medium warm cam" Down here our steaks off the BBQ are medium warm.

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Last edited by 67Mustang Al.; 06-26-2012 at 03:33 AM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 05:39 AM
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Mornin' Ace/evening (I think, Al)
I'm thinking that there is a fairly big vacuum leak (gauge goes on the driver's side port, the other wont show much or at all at idle). You can first of all check the hoses for break - I had one, bottom side after I screwed up and installed the dist. 180 out - huge backfire. Do you have that back port plugged or being used? It needs a pipe plug if not used. The front port? A good carb base gasket? Have you done a compression check - that will show up a blown head gasket? Have you lined up the crank harmonic balancer timing mark and checked the dist rotor for #1?

One way though a little dangerous (have an extinguisher near), to check for vacuum leaks is to use a butane barbecue lighter, unlit and run the tip around the the intake and carb base. The engine will speed up if it sucks in any of that gas(the radiator fan sometimes screws that up).

Now - with all of the info several have given, time to sit down and think it through - and on paper. The shotgun approach version works some of the time for a quick fix, but now it's time to go back to square one and do it with a check off list.

Thanks on the b-day, I/we made through another year

Al - that camshaft is medium warm, just like that barby steak. Not quite like it came from a cow(the OEM), but just warm enough so that you notice the difference (it's a Ford Racing 'E' roller)

Dave W
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 06:42 AM
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Ace hoget and Dave
I agree with "medium warm E )Dave on this one. Back to basics.
I think the clue here is it runs on 18 degrees , just, and then dies at 8. ???????? . Are you sure that cam timing is correct..????Backfires come back up the inlet runners when the spark fires with inlet valve still open.?????????? If you have checked the crank at 8 and fired off a spark to No. 1 with ignition on, then something else on the checklist is to blame.
Keep on diggin.
Al
P.s Does your oil pressure vary much from summer to winter Dave when cold as i have noticed a winter start up pressure of 80psi. I have a 1000miles on it now. In summer it was 70. I run 10/40 with extra zinc as i dont have a roller block. I also run a Melling HV oil pump. Pressure drops by about 15 psi when hot.
Just curious.

Last edited by 67Mustang Al.; 06-26-2012 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:31 AM
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I am convinced I have a vacuum leak. I am really thinking I might pull the intake and start from scratch. I was looking at Jegs for gaskets and I seen I few different ones that had different port measurements, maybe I have a mismatched set of gaskets? Dave and Al you mention cam timing, that's done off the timing chain? And yes the back port/for the brake booster is plugged. All vac lines are new.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:52 AM
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I am gonna step back for the day, finally get some sleep. I am gonna order a new set of intake gaskets etc and pull her apart tomorrow and god helping get it running. I do appreciate all the help guys!
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acehogg69
I am gonna step back for the day, finally get some sleep. I am gonna order a new set of intake gaskets etc and pull her apart tomorrow and god helping get it running. I do appreciate all the help guys!
wow Eddie cust support......when I put the intake gaskets on it said to use the gasgacinch around the water ports. I dropped a decent bead of good ole rtv

Last edited by acehogg69; 06-26-2012 at 09:43 AM.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 11:53 AM
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OKaaaaay - RTV is fine when used sparingly and if I recall, that goo only needs to be put around the water ports. Gaskacinch - nothing more then a good grade of flammable contact cement. Detractors can argue that point - I've done a low end test with the two.

Use a good high temp RTV in place of those manifold to block end seals.

Intake gaskets - I use one of these, FEL-PRO MS93334 (you don't use the upper gasket) or Fel-Pro 1250. Both should be available locally or cheaper at Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php)

Unless you have changed out timing gears and chain, you should be fine - unless they have many, many miles and 'jumped' a tooth or so. Then you need this gasket set - FEL-PRO Part # TCS45449 along with a decent timing gear and chain set - I recommend Summit as they have a huge collection of Ford parts while Jeg's, IMO, sucks for anything but Chebbie.

You will need a harmonic balancer puller to check the chain and gears - Advance or Auto Zone as well as others have loaners. DO NOT use any other method. It can get really expensive.

Dave W
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:09 PM
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Well gents I figured out what the issue was, after I pulled the intake I cleaned the block up and then went to clean the intake when I rolled it over low and behold on the backside just below the carb was an unplugged port for the brake booster! I think that would cause alot of problems....lol. I am gonna put it back together tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:10 AM
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Well she is running. Got the timing set at just over 10BTC and got the idle screw set. Sounds great! All I got left is to finish up the fuel lines and adjust the AOD. Anyone ever done this is it tricky at all? I got the gauge Lokar suggests.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:26 AM
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Heres some pics...
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2012, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acehogg69 View Post
Well she is running. Got the timing set at just over 10BTC and got the idle screw set. Sounds great! All I got left is to finish up the fuel lines and adjust the AOD. Anyone ever done this is it tricky at all? I got the gauge Lokar suggests.
Set it exactly how Lokar AND Ford recommend. If TV is wrong, the transmission can be toast real quick. As far as tricky, no.

http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-i...aod_kd_kit.pdf

and another:

Ford AOD Transmission

and last:

Using the Ford AOD with a Holley carburetor
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:04 AM
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Thanks for all the info and help. I have read the return spring on the Lokar kit is week I made a bracket but I need to get a smaller sring to make an assist return spring for it.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by acehogg69 View Post
Thanks for all the info and help. I have read the return spring on the Lokar kit is week I made a bracket but I need to get a smaller sring to make an assist return spring for it.
The single spring is weak so they use a double. There are better return spring arrangements but you do need their bracket or make up one at least similar. I have the throttle, kickdown and cruise on the same bracket with some mods and use their spring, but am using a C4 instead of an AOD



That's a nice looking engine installation - those valve covers, but fully polished would look nice on my '31 but will not clear the roller rockers so they sit on a shelf
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Irelands child View Post
The single spring is weak so they use a double. There are better return spring arrangements but you do need their bracket or make up one at least similar. I have the throttle, kickdown and cruise on the same bracket with some mods and use their spring, but am using a C4 instead of an AOD



That's a nice looking engine installation - those valve covers, but fully polished would look nice on my '31 but will not clear the roller rockers so they sit on a shelf
Yeah I was speaking of the one on the tranny, I have heard it's lacking.
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:24 PM
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Update

Well I finally got the tranny adjusted up and road tested her....wow all the work paid off she runs like a whole new beast! Only thing I noticed at idle after getting hot and running awhile she wanted to stall. I am guessing with it at idle and the extreme heat the fuel maybe vaporizing. Any ideas on how to get the eng compart a little cooler. Not that I plan on letting her idle for long periods of time. Also I adjusted the tranny per Lokar instruction and with the little block on the cable at the throttle I set it to about 33-34psi. At this setting she shifted good put a tad early and the passin gear took a bit to to kick in. Now if I set the press closer to 32-33 how would it change the shifting? Thx again for all the help guys!!!!

Also would it be out of the norm to run a gauge to the tranny permanently to keep an eye on the pressure??
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