[acehogg69]

I have a 87 Ranger with a 302. Not sure what year the block is out of. It is not the H.O. engine. I have an edlebrock 1405 600CFM mounted to a power plus typoon intake. The firing order is 1,5,4 etc distributer is set TDC. If it was off wouldn't the rotor button not be hitting the #1 cyclinder? I am at loss. btw all the parts mentioned are new outta the box. I put new lifters, intake manifold, carb, radiator and went to an electric fan. I am runnning at 5psi fuel. I put a regulator and gauge. Any ideas or things I am over looking???

[Crosley]

Originally Posted by acehogg69

I have a 87 Ranger with a 302. Not sure what year the block is out of. It is not the H.O. engine. I have an edlebrock 1405 600CFM mounted to a power plus typoon intake. The firing order is 1,5,4 etc distributer is set TDC. If it was off wouldn't the rotor button not be hitting the #1 cyclinder? I am at loss. btw all the parts mentioned are new outta the box. I put new lifters, intake manifold, carb, radiator and went to an electric fan. I am runnning at 5psi fuel. I put a regulator and gauge. Any ideas or things I am over looking???

Maybe I missed it:

Would you be specific on what the problem is?

The engine does not run at all? Runs poorly? Back fires?

[acehogg69]

Sorry, been beating my head against the wall the last 3 days. It will start up but runs ruff, won't idle, if I put it in gear she falls straight on her butt. Getting some backfire through the carb. Timing is running about 20 BTDC. I retorqued the carb, intake and double checked all my wires.

[68NovaSS]

Try dropping your initial timing back to 10 - 12*, vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at the carb. No vacuum leaks?

[acehogg69]

Originally Posted by 68NovaSS

Try dropping your initial timing back to 10 - 12*, vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at the carb. No vacuum leaks?

Tomorrow I am gonna check for vacuum leaks. If I try and set it that low she dies right out. Maybe my floats need adjusting? I can't get it to run long enough to check anything out.

[68NovaSS]

Floats could be the problem, but they'd have to be completely closing off the fuel supply to cause this problem. Does it act like it's running out of fuel or going rich? How far out do you have the idle mix screws? I run a 1405 and a 1406 on my T, they're easy carbs to work with. I've attached the float adjustment specs.

What's your fuel pressure? They like about 5.5 psi.

[acehogg69]

The screws are backed out 2.5 turns as I read to do. The press is running a solid 5psi. It kinda sounds like the timing is off. I think it sounds like it's loading up with fuel. I am not sure how to tell really. But if I had to guess it acts like it's not getting enough fuel. And I am worried about the timing running so high. Before I tore it down she was running around 14-16. Also I read the linkage for the pump on the front drivers side of the carb to move the linkage down to the lowest hole. Anyone heard of this??

[acehogg69]

I also just read that the vacuum for vac advance should be hooked up on the passengers side port. I had it on the drivers side. Could that be part of my issues?

[JeffB]

If it seems like it's loading up you want to shorten the pump stroke,put it in the top hole.The 1405 & 1406 are a later version of the Carter AFB here is some great tuning info you should save:http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/carterafbtuning.pdf I am also running a 302 similar setup (see Pic)

[67Mustang Al.]

If you eliminate vac port take offs , float levels, and you have 5.5 psi fp then i would be looking at your ignition timing also as suggested earlier. The way i set the spark firing on Number one plug with ignition turned on is....

Set No.1 piston on TDC (both valves closed on compression stroke)
Find 8 degrees BTDC on crank pulley/balancer and line it up with the TDC pointer.
Because Fords run anticlockwise rotors, i loosen the clamp bolt and very slowly rotate the dist body clockwise until the rotor tip sneaks up on Number one carbon post inside the cap. When the rotor is close enough to the Number 1 carbon post, a spark will fire to number one plug sitting on the block . You should hear it and see it.
Then clamp the dist locked again and it shoudl be set at 8 degrees BTDC.
I hope this makes sense.
Assuming the cam timing is ok and you have fuel (wet plug) it should fire right up.
Goodluck
Al.

[acehogg69]

Well I put the accell pump to the top hole, put the vacuum line on the passenger side port and it is running worse. I got the idle screws out 2.5 turns. When I did have her running I had to put the timing around 18 to keep it running. I am getting a back fire through the carb before it dies out.

[67Mustang Al.]

A back fire normally means there is an issue with timing. The spark plug is firing with the intake valve open hence the fire coming back up through the carb. Hope you have an extinguisher handy.
Al

[acehogg69]

I am at a loss. I guess I might pull the valve cover...ughhh gotta pull the heater box to do that. Now when I do that, what at I looking for on the rocker arm to verify I am on the compression stroke. I am also wondering about a vacuum leak but until I get it running no way to really check or set the ignition timing. Also once I verify compression stroke and the rotor button is straight up on the #1 post and the stator is centered on the little gear which way would I want to turn the distributer to get it about 8-10 deg OTC?

[acehogg69]

68Nova, On your Eddies which hole are you running the accelerator pump linkage? I have the and also read use the bottom. Of course the book makes no mention of it.

[67Mustang Al.]

Originally Posted by acehogg69

I am at a loss. I guess I might pull the valve cover...ughhh gotta pull the heater box to do that. Now when I do that, what at I looking for on the rocker arm to verify I am on the compression stroke. I am also wondering about a vacuum leak but until I get it running no way to really check or set the ignition timing. Also once I verify compression stroke and the rotor button is straight up on the #1 post and the stator is centered on the little gear which way would I want to turn the distributer to get it about 8-10 deg OTC?

When you find the NO.1 rocker arm. (Front of engine) you will have two rocker arms , one for inlet valve and one for exhaust. The rocker has a push rod on one end coming from the lifter and the other side of the rocker arm has a valve under it with the coil springs. Both valves should be "closed" or sitting up high on the compression stroke ( rockers sitting level) When you think that you have both valves closed have a look down on your large pulley (crank pulley) and check that the timing pointer is over 0 degrees( top dead centre mark TDC)
Now you need to turn this pulley slightly with a socket on the centre bolt until you estimate 8-10 degrees BTDC(before top dead centre) In other words you want the piston to be just shy of the top of its stroke when the spark plug fires. To make sure you are turning the pullley the right direction, watch the rotor. It should turn anti clockwise when the crank pulley is going in the right direction.
This is where you want the piston to be when you crack a spark from the distributor.
All you need to do now is sit number one plug in its lead on top of the block, turn the ignition on, then rotate the distributor very slowly by hand in a CLOCKWISE direction until it passes the number one post inside the cap and fires off a spark. You will have to go backwards and forwards a couple of times so you know where it is. Only lock the dist bolt after a "CLOCKWISE' spark happens at the plug.
You set the 8 degrees on the crankshaft pulley, not the distributor. this is just to get you started. A timing light is used later on once the engine is running.