problems on fresh build - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2005, 11:54 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
problems on fresh build

Hi All,
Just completed the install of my new motor.
350 SBC .30 over
Forged pistons
6.0 rods
Lunati roller cam and lifters 290 advertised duration 522 lift
Roller rockers 1.6
Dart 215 pro1 heads
Demon 750
Airgap intake
Transmission 700R4
MSD ready to run dist and 6AL ignition box
I dont know what the rear gears are.

I didnt build the motor had a local machine shop build it.

After the install it started fine.
Oil pressure is good temp is also good.

On the distributor I changed the advance stop bushing to the red one and also changed to
the blue light spring and silver light spring according to the MSD chart
this brings the mechanical advance to 28 degree's at 3200 rpm (is that right?)..so when I try to set the initial at 8 for a total of 36 degree's headers start to glow red hot at that point I retard the timing back to 0 initial degrees. it runs ok but seems to lack power and the idle fluctuates about 100 rpm up and down. Kind of a surging thing …What am I doing wrong….sorry about babbling on any and advice is greatly appreciated

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2005, 11:57 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I forgot to mention that I diconected the vacum advance canister.
Does that matter?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 05:08 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,857
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 247 Times in 201 Posts
You need more timing...try 4 degrees at idle, to start.

Also, I think you have a carb problem (surging)................check for vacuum leaks 1st.
__________________
Ontario Rodders

Budget RVs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 05:52 AM
TurboS10's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Auto Terms and Definitions Used in Modern Engine T... Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Texas
Age: 36
Posts: 3,463
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Your timing is all wrong. You are going to want at least 18 degrees initial advance and likely a bit more. You need to increase initial advance a bunch and limit total advance to 34-36 degrees. That will take care of the laziness and glowing headers. Start with that and let us know how it runs. Should be a bunch better. If you have a carb problem, then you can tune it.

Chris
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 06:05 AM
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: PICTURE TEST
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: york pa
Age: 52
Posts: 2,795
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
set-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Guera
On the distributor I changed the advance stop bushing to the red one and also changed to
the blue light spring and silver light spring according to the MSD chart
this brings the mechanical advance to 28 degree's at 3200 rpm (is that right?)..so when I try to set the initial at 8 for a total of 36 degree's headers start to glow red hot at that point I retard the timing back to 0 initial degrees. it runs ok but seems to lack power and the idle fluctuates about 100 rpm up and down. Kind of a surging thing …What am I doing wrong….sorry about babbling on any and advice is greatly appreciated
Something seams wrong here. I think the red bushing is the biggest in the kit isn't it??? I don't have my chart in front of me. If it is then you should only be getting like 8 maybe 10 deg of advance... Did you confirm with a timing light that the distributor really has 28 degrees of advance in it?????? Did you also confirm that the timing marks are correct????

Like Chris stated you will need a timing curve more like 16 or 18 initial (with out the vacuum advance hooked up) And 36 or 38 total mechanical.... And i would not allow more then about 10 degrees in the vacuum can........

Keith
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 06:38 AM
coldknock's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Social Circle, Ga.
Age: 42
Posts: 1,528
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Guera
so when I try to set the initial at 8 for a total of 36 degree's headers start to glow red hot at that point I retard the timing back to 0 initial degrees.
Sounds to me like you setting it at 8* After TDC and that's what is making the headers glow. It should be set Before TDC. If you have an aftermarket harmonic damper it should have a scale on both sides of zero. Use the side marked BTDC.

Like the fellas said, it should be more like 12-18 degrees initial.


Larry
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:19 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks all for the quick replies..
They did install an after market balancer.....
Is this correct? It runs ok here

10---
---
---
---
---<=== current setting
0 ---
---
---
---
---
10---
---
---
---
---
20---
---
---
---
---
30---
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:31 AM
MI2600's Avatar
Member# 3287
 

Last journal entry: Vortec Heads
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: N. Muskegon, MI
Posts: 2,632
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Usually on a timing tab it shows more degrees of advance than retard.

You have to be retarded (not you, the engine) now for the exhausts to be glowing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:33 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
k-star red is the smallest = 28
silver = 25
blue = 21
black = 18

I agree must be a vacum leak...do I fix the leak firts then deal with the timing issue after
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:48 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The Headers glow at this setting.



---<=== headers glow at this setting
---
10---
---
---
---
---
0 ---
---
---
---
---
10---
---
---
---
---
20---
---
---
---
---
30---
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 09:07 AM
Jmark's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: phoenix
Age: 61
Posts: 4,786
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
You are going the wrong way on both selections!! Put in the black stop and then set your timing on the other side of zero at 16 degrees and go for a spin. You are setting the timing retarded (after TDC). Thats why its burning the headers.

With that cam, you need lots of initial timing. The black stop will limit the mechanical advance to 18 degrees,,,,, plus the initial of 16 will bring you to 34 degrees. You don't really need and vacuum advance yet until you know that everything else is set correctly.

Mark


---
---
10---
---
---
---
---
0 ---
---
---
---
---
10---
---
---
---<=====set it here!!!
---
20---
---
---
---
---
30---
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 11:03 AM
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: PICTURE TEST
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: york pa
Age: 52
Posts: 2,795
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
timing

Jmark nailed it.......

Install the Black bushing.Shoot for the 16 to 18 initial. You are on the wrong side of zero. I cannot believe that it even runs there.......

Let the vacuum advance disconnected for right now untill you get it straightened out..

Keith
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 11:05 AM
spinn's Avatar
Fought beside and with you 92'
 

Last journal entry: This makes a huge difference
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,382
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 78 Times in 76 Posts
jmark/kstar is right on. way to illustrate the point. do the headers still glow?

out in left field, it may be a tooth off also

Last edited by spinn; 06-17-2005 at 11:36 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 11:35 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Age: 60
Posts: 95
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok I have reset the timing as instructed however did not change to the black bushing I also have a 3000 stall converter and thought I need to have it come in at 36 degrees fast that is why I used the red bushing. should I go to maybe the silver?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2005, 11:37 AM
spinn's Avatar
Fought beside and with you 92'
 

Last journal entry: This makes a huge difference
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,382
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 78 Times in 76 Posts
fast like 2000 rpm. use 2 light silver spring ,the balck bushing, 18 intial and 18 mechanical that = 36 total. vacuum disconnected.

18 is a little high (intial). listen to how the starter sounds. it may be too much for the starter. in that cases back it off.

Last edited by spinn; 06-17-2005 at 11:46 AM. Reason: use silver and blue for 2200RPM full advance
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine Problems, Oil related or coincidence only? Francis Engine 1 05-12-2004 06:56 AM
SBC 350 Crank Balancer Problems bjam2 Engine 8 05-04-2004 07:36 PM
How to build a 350 insayne Engine 2 11-08-2003 07:14 AM
Finally decided on an engine build up! Adrenaline_Fiend Engine 2 10-20-2003 09:43 PM
350 Chevy build Streetmachine Engine 11 12-10-2001 04:31 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.