Originally Posted by mustang 671
yep got that re the choke horns .
re the top pulley . it is larger than norrmal due to the way i have had the bottom pulley specially machined to cover my harmonic balancer ( rattler ) i didnt like the way people bolt a pulley to the front of a balancer then go on to say you have to double key way it. blah blah. no s**t the amount of strain and fource to spin the blower with a pulley stuck to the front of the crank is utter madness to me. so i simply had one specifically machined to fit snug over the balancer . this in turn made the top pulley the size it is to get the psi i am aiming for.
i dont want dp carbs , opinions vary on that side of it. some like dp some like vac secs, dont think its a case of saying this is what you should use . it depends on what you are using it for. street - race - strip etc etc,
i like pat ganagl opinion on blown supercharging for the street , he aint daft .
once i been to the dyno i will post some pics for sure .
back to the last question - whats your thoughts on the oil choice for a dyno run ?
Use a non synthetic until it's broken in. Then you can use the oil of your choice. I recall you have a flat tappet cam, so use a ZDDPlus-type additive unless the oil already has those additives in it, like the Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple, etc. oils specially blended for flat tappet high performance engines.
Once the engine is broken in you do not need as much additives as you did during the break in process. That's why they sell break in oil and oil to be used AFTER break in. You can use the ZDDPlus-type additive to duplicate these same amounts of additives when using regular motor oil.
This has been written about extensively, if you do a search here or on the net you'll see plenty of info on ppm of additives needed for long term use, etc., so I'll not rehash it all here.