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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
No, Crane Cams is alive and well. Was bought by S&S Cycle and reborn.
The F278-2 is a mechanical flat tappet on a blower friendly 114 LSA. The other Crane SR-238/350-2S-12 crane#368511 is a same duration on 112LSA cool Mechanical street roller.. Both are very "streetable" cams
more power and rpm than what you had, but still tame enough for very enjoyable driving/cruising.
The blower tends to tame the nature of a said cam grind.
These are not "wild race cams" by any means. These are high perf street cams. With the blower the power will be right there as soon as you jump on it, and won't wimper out prematurely. Really let the blower do its stuff on the street.

If I was going to do a Comp "SR" street roller it would be a custom blower friendly grind based on the extreme energy street roller mechanical lobes very similar to the Crane Cams SR, I suggested.
Whether flat tappet or roller, I recomend a solid (mechanical) set up.

The Crane Cams are ready to rock, blower friendly, off the shelf cams.
Weather you go for the flat tappet, or swing for the street roller, either are going to out perform the old cam and the choices you have looked at, in this street blower motor.
Getting the camshaft right is critical.
ok and I agree . from the limited amount I know of cams its clearly what opens and closes the valves which is crucial. I need to check what springs came with my edelbrock victor junior heads ( there are 2x springs to each). they are the 62cc heads I am sure of . I expect the valve springs will work with this type cam as they are performance heads ? but will double check with the company I bought them from.

yes I did hear that crane where bought out by another company and glad to also hear they are trading.

so I was told if I go for roller then I wouldn't have to run in the cam like a flat tappet and if I wanted to change the cam at a latter date then I wouldn't have to change the roller hydraulic lifters ?

now that's a funny thing you say about going for a solid lifter instead of a hydraulic !! tell me why you prefer ?? again I have been told by this race guy that he also prefers solid lifters but it would be more for race application's as they would need adjusting a lot more and would be a lot nosier ? ( not sure over the blower whine ? )

what's the pros and for with solid and hydraulic ?

thanks F BIRD

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 04:13 PM
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I have heard its better to go with a 114 lobe separation cam ? is that what you mean by 114 lsa ?

my firing order is different to those ones you have listed ( thanks for stating that ) so I take it I just programme my ecu to fire that sequence instead of 13726548 for mine.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 04:31 PM
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am sure my heads are the 60cc ones and they say max lift is .650 . so sounds ok .
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2013, 03:29 PM
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thanks f bird. that really helped !!
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:05 PM
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spoke with chase knight from crane cams just now .

he recommends either 1 of these

flat tappet 244 -255 with 553 and 572 lift and 114 lobe separation
roller 228 -236 with 552 and 574 with 114 lobe separation

says the roller will produce a longer power range and 30 ft lbs more of torque approx. but the flat tappet is more punchy with a smaller power band and I suppose will knock you head back quicker .
s
my only issue is the roller requires new push rods and is also 3x the price of the flat tappet. if I go with flat tappet I can use my current push rods !!!


hmmmmmm opinion's would be good ???
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 02:23 PM
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yep got that with the run in etc. chase talked me through the complete sequence. firing order is the same for what I have . zinc additive to be used . 1500 rpm min up to 3000rpm back and fourth for 20 mins . then dump the oil and refill with same again . said zinc is good to add


so I am nervous on the solid set up. checking valve lash a lot ? also I like the idea of the roller on the cam shaft . does a solid set up have this roller or is it like flat tappet ?

lastly if I go for his flat tappet I can use my push rods. but roller does need new ones and they aint cheap . prob to the uk with tax is 1K all in . ouch

but chase said the roller will ramp up better and provide a longer power range and provide more torque .

I wonder what the difference would be between the 3 ? not the $ cost the drive ??

he asked me every single question on my motor. was very impressed.

cheers f bird
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2013, 02:27 PM
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thanks for all the help. looked at what I wanted and the bother I had with the bad run in with the flat tappet cam. spoke in depth with chase knight last night after I read your posts. I have just got a booking for a wedding over here for next year and told chase I would like to do some weddings and commercial jobs with the car and photo shoots etc. he recommended the roller hyd cam and not to go solid as I wouldn't be racing it a lot or revving passed 6000 much . so the benefit wouldn't be huge . he did agree with you fire bird but said as its going to be a strong engine the difference that I would see in hp compared to the solid wouldnt be a big amount. I like the sound of the roller for a near 100% street car. may do a strip once or twice but not regularly.

he recommended a new hardened steel gear drive for dizzy for oil pump.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2013, 02:11 PM
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hi all .

its been a while. have now got it back and in running. just going to do a few miles in it then off to the dyno for the last tune up. f-bird. chase knights cam and roller lifters are the business. sounds so much nicer and seems more torqueyer

will post the dyno figures as soon as I get them.
I did some more machining work whilst the ending was out.

fitted pop off valve to manifold below blower
o ringed the manifold
capped off my dizzy with a piston . looks good.

video is here of first start up . idling at 930 rpm at present. 60 psi oil pressure when cold.

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Old 10-02-2013, 02:18 PM
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pic of manifold fitted. with o ring channel . pop off valve and piston machined to cap off dizzy

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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2013, 02:19 PM
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blower fitted . very snug fit

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Old 10-02-2013, 02:20 PM
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pop off valve

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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:54 AM
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Been following this one for quite a while and it's great to see it running again,
SOUNDS GREAT

I truly hope your troubles are behind you and it's all about cruising from this point forward, THAT IS ONE SERIOUSLY BAD *** STANG

PS
I notice the belt walks to the front of the pulley even under low RPM, keep on eye on that...
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 06:11 AM
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Cheers rob . Learnt a valuable lesson . Build tthe engine last when doing a resto ! Yes the belt wonders more now than before ? Ideas ? Belt had 1/4 - 1/2 flex from cold which bds recomends . ????
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2013, 02:14 PM
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hi all . any ideas on how to stop my wondering blower belt ?

what's the correct belt tension ?

been out for a few drives today and its holding together well .

going to go for a hr drive tomorrow then do a oil change .
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2013, 08:49 AM
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I'm on my 8th Supercharged Vehicle and only had a similar problem once. In that case it was a very obvious problem, the former owner used a smog pump delete kit and the pulley was clearly not "exactly" in line with the rest of the Pulleys so it would walk.

Actually now that I think about it I did have it happen on another one when the Idler Pulley was worn and sloppy and it kept wearing the inside edge of the belt up. Once I changed the idler pulley it was fine
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