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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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What spring do you have in the vac secandery of the carb?On the pri side if the power valves givee you problems you can square jet to get past that point untel later by going 6/8 jets up from with the pv's.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalstorm View Post
What spring do you have in the vac secandery of the carb?On the pri side if the power valves givee you problems you can square jet to get past that point untel later by going 6/8 jets up from with the pv's.
i am sure it is the purple one but will double check.

i have what looks like a orangy brown cam for the acc pump shot. but looks more a dirty orange than a dark brown.

primarys 68
secs 78

shoters have a preifx of "R107" on all of them

10.5 pv.s

the acc pump shotters spray a good jet of fuel in them. will find out what prefix is on them.

i tried to give it a bit this weekend but it seemed to not want to get off. either its a very slow throttle response > blocked fuel passage but on the idle circuit it revs fine out of gear. only when load is applied. . wasnt a bog. just seemed like there was no umpff

i got around 16 hg vacuum at idle last time i checked.
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2013, 03:10 PM
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Ok so you have the pv's boost referenced and the vac diaphram?I am not sure if you said that earlier,sorry.
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 02:00 PM
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hi metal storm. all i have done is upgraded the pv to 10.5s as f bird said he would think that about where i will be. i have vacuumn of around 15-16 at idle. but for now got them a bit higher as they appear form what i had read to be too low a number. so at least i didnt have to plug them

i havent yet boost ref the pv's. i have seen pictures of how to do it. drill and tap tube through the side to give the pv the correct manifold pressure. should i be doing this now ?

i havent done nothing to the vac sec diaprams , the 2x vacs are linked together with a tube, i was advised to take out both ball bearings as its like a damper . but blown engines dont need them. i will double check but im sure its got the purple springs which again i have read that 9 times out of 10 thats the one.

i suppose stuff like the spring and pv's will be shown up when tuning and road testing with afr sensors and reading plugs. but hope these mods get me closer than i was. but should i boost ref the pv's before ? ie do i defo need to ?

cheers shaun
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 02:34 PM
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thanks for all of your help guys , i know its nearly there now. so thought i would get some pics up of the car nearly finished so you can see what im trying to complete.

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Old 05-07-2013, 02:35 PM
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Last edited by mustang 671; 05-07-2013 at 02:56 PM.
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 02:38 PM
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not sure if you all will be able to open this video ?

https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hoppe...type=2&theater
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 02:40 PM
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showing start up from warm and drive off.

https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hoppe...type=2&theater
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 03:03 PM
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video of engine run once warm , and screen video shot of ecu ign chart and paramieters screen for my ecu .

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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 05:48 PM
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The pv's will never open with allways getting a vacuum signal being above the blower the vacuum never drops to open them.
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 10:21 PM
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so i looked at the metering block and when screwed all the way in it appears to cut off air flow. which would mean its rich ? then as you screw out ( countyer clockwise ) it would alow more air in . leaner ?

The idle mix screws are not air mix screws or idle air blled screws.

They do not control air.

They control the amount of idle fuel at the idle discharge port.
This is below the T slot. The tap on your kitchen sink does not control air and these
idle mix screws don;t either.

clockwise is leaner. You should be able to stall the engine by closing the idle mixture screws They are in fact volume screws.
Just like the volume knob on a radio.

The idle air that mixes with idle fuel in the idle well is metered by the idle air bleed.
There is no screw with adjust this.

Do not confuse with idle bypass air. Not the same thing.. Get a book on basic carb circuit function.
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 01:38 AM
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Dont mean to troll. BUT OMG ID TAKE THAT THING RUNNING ON 2 CYLINDERS AND SLIPPING IN EVERY GEAR!

IF YOU EVER NEED A BODY PART (ARM_LEG_KIDNEY_HART_BRAIN_SO-ON - MSG ME ILL MAKE YOU A GOOD DEAL!
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 02:29 PM
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thanks all . ok so seems i need to -

boost ref the pv,s by drilling through to the vaacum channel ( seen a thread explaining how to do this ) and conneting them both to a tee piece and then 1x single hose to below the blower in the inlet manifold to read correct manifold vacum ?

f brid - got that on the idle screw. so mine screw in clockwise which shuts off fuel flow - leaner - and counter clockwise for richer . well i shall screw them in and see if it stalls. so if it doesnt where could fuel be coming from ?? now i have 10.5 pvs would they be opining ? they are new and the reading below the carbs was 15-16
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2013, 04:51 PM
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Hi all , just finished @ my mates cnc machine shop , as my metering blocks already have the vacuumn tube on them I choose to epoxy resin the original vacuumn feed hole by the pv ( above the check ball ) and then cnc machined a channel in the carb body to join the reverse L shape withinn the primary metering block - this then sends a vacuumn signal to the orginal area , so will fit carbs tomorrow and join both carbs together with a tee piece and then tee into my rear take off on my inlet manifold below the blower ,

Couldn't believe who easy it was , if your reading this and thinking off boost ref the pv and also have the vacuumn take off on the primary metering block , just do this mod rather than drilling the base plate as it looks more tricky , and I could see it being more labour intensive , you don't need a cnc machine , a steady hand and a drimmel would work ,

Thanks for the pv advise guys , off I go on another weekend of trying ,
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2013, 05:17 PM
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You had best pressure (shop air) check what you did there.
That vac port on the metering block is for ported vacuum advance.. Goes down to the throttle bores in the base plate.

(drilling the base plate is not needed. The spot to drill is thru the main body of the side of the carb just into the power valve cavity,,long small diamter drill , then plug the hole in the bottom of the PV cavity in the body.
then redrill that new small hole with a slightly bigger drill about 1/4" deep just deep enough for a pressed in tube ...Then press a tube into the hole you just made in the side of the main body of the carb.

You can do it, the way you did it, but you must also block the ported vac passage in the main body down to the throttle base of the carb .
or it will leak too.
I am not convinced from your post that you plugged that hole too.
Just make sure you plugged that hole too.

While you got the carbs apart: what is the orrifice size of the PVCR's and the idle feed restrictions and the idle and high speed air bleeds on each of carbs..??? are they matching carbs? Do not assume they are both the same inside.....look....

Now is the time to look and write down all the internal fuel metering orrifice sizes on each carb..


Now is the time to verify and properly pre-set the throttle blade Tslot exposure on all 8 barrels evenly
before install. Get this correct as a base line.

remove the tiny secondary throttle stop set screw from the throttle base and reinstall it from the top side of the throttle shaft boss so you can adjust the secondary throttle idle position (T slot exposure at idle) with the carbs installed on the motor.
You need to get this right on all 8 barrels before reinstalling the carbs.
Verify ignition timing using a timing light. Do not depend on the computer ECU doing X to the timing.. Verify actual timing setup with a timing light.
You do not want an advance curve at all.... Fixed locked timing that does not move with rpm, load or throttle position.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-10-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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