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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:56 AM
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My normal answer would be Drive it like you stole it I say that because I think we all know many successful engine builders that will build a car/engine, put a couple of drive cycles on it, dyno it, and then bring it straight to a race track. And then the engine goes on to have many many years of trouble free street / track use.

However if that Bad Boy is anything like my Sierra there aint no way in hell you can do much on the street without the entire county hearing you

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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:42 PM
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would like to know

Hi F-Bird,
Love your info thank you very much.
What distributor would you perfer for a blown smallblock Chevy.
Thanks, Scot
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
When the engine is hot...like on a restart...you should not need to pump the gas.

CLOSED throttle..ALWAYS . Use the ignition interupt toggle switch.....crank it, 1-2-3 count and throw the spark switch on ,,,. fire it up and then rev it, to clear it. Clear it ,, then let it idle.

Real simple.... No computer required.

Computers are for porn searching.... even in Spain. Didn't any body tell you that?
Not know a single one of you boys on this thread but thought I had best chime in . . . . . .

Mustang 671, in watching this thread, I think that F-bird is just trying to make sure you are aware of some of the stuff that he has knowledge of.

I have not seen anything he posted that was not correct.

You have a lot of "bells and whistles" on your rig that, for sure, will create a bunch of headaches and destroyed parts if not careful.

The "hyper vs. forged" decision is liable to give you pin bosses pulled out of the pistons, seen too many of them happen that way. And a huffer will really put lots of heat into the crown / ring pack area, adding to the problem.

He suggested changing the oil, most likely because it sounded like the raw fuel has most likely gone past the rings and thinned the oil.

Look . . . . , nobody wants to see you have problems with your ride. But you seem to be sort of hard-headed to fixing the possible issues you are seeing.

So . . . . . just how far of a road trip is this Spain you write of???

Take care, K
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang 671 View Post
i want to get some miles on it to before i let them go mad and rev it high and tune it for max power , thats the right thing to do ?

or is it best to bed the rings in a quick as poss as other people reccomend.
There are differing opinions on how to break in an engine and the debate has been going on since the Model T was new. You have Keith Dyer posting to your thread. Take advantage of the opportunity- there's no one who could answer your questions better.
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithDyer View Post
Not know a single one of you boys on this thread but thought I had best chime in . . . . . .

Mustang 671, in watching this thread, I think that F-bird is just trying to make sure you are aware of some of the stuff that he has knowledge of.

I have not seen anything he posted that was not correct.

You have a lot of "bells and whistles" on your rig that, for sure, will create a bunch of headaches and destroyed parts if not careful.

The "hyper vs. forged" decision is liable to give you pin bosses pulled out of the pistons, seen too many of them happen that way. And a huffer will really put lots of heat into the crown / ring pack area, adding to the problem.

He suggested changing the oil, most likely because it sounded like the raw fuel has most likely gone past the rings and thinned the oil.

Look . . . . , nobody wants to see you have problems with your ride. But you seem to be sort of hard-headed to fixing the possible issues you are seeing.

So . . . . . just how far of a road trip is this Spain you write of???

Take care, K
hi keith , thanks for the post . think the spain think was taken out of context, i said i had a contact in spain ( ibiza) where i can use it for a few months with some celebreties to earn some really good money , but that wont be next year as im too busy with work . but if i was to do it i would trailor it down anyhow . my question on that subject was , about the choke horns and also the heat and another reason for wanting the water/meth inj .

regarding the oil- again that was took incorrectly. i have only recently changed the oil as i had a big over fueling issue and wrong timing , so i ditched the oil and filter and replaced it with millers running in oil . my question on that was -- is millers running in oil ( ie forget the brand - its a mineral based running in oil ) ok for taking to the dyno for them to tune and do a bit of running in. seems silly to ask as its called running in oil. but wanted some opinions on it ??

trust me im no hard headed dude , quite the opposite, i am a carpenter/builder. i have built the whole thing myself using different people to make , weld , design and fit bits to get to where i am . eveyone thought i was mad and alot of people said it wouldnt work etc . but its running and its finished , however i am no fool and know the serious part is the engine tuning running in and to keep det at bay .

regarding the running in . i personally have a good friend who builds and tunes gp250 track bikes 2 stroke and 4 stroke super bikes . he also agrees that he preferes the method of cuttting in the rings as quick as possible and not to run in a engine as manufactures reccomend, ie 1000 or so miles , so when i go to the dyno i am intersted on peoples opinions of the dyno guys saying they can load up the back wheels and run the engine in for 30 mins or so.

whats your thoughts?

thanks shaun
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProStreetRob View Post
My normal answer would be Drive it like you stole it I say that because I think we all know many successful engine builders that will build a car/engine, put a couple of drive cycles on it, dyno it, and then bring it straight to a race track. And then the engine goes on to have many many years of trouble free street / track use.

However if that Bad Boy is anything like my Sierra there aint no way in hell you can do much on the street without the entire county hearing you
hi pro street. yep im with you on that one , go through the rev range differnt speeds , hill climbs . hill descends , get them bedded in as quick as poss as if left to long i have personally seen the damage for rings that let by due to not being bedded in quick enough

i know of one engine builder who put a polishing compund down a bore on a mclaren m1 engine before a race as they wouldnt of been able to of raced it as that bore was low on compression. it fixed it for the race, its also the same car from your neck of the woods . 1960s mclaren m1 my client has recently bought it. chassis number 1 of 66 , it started some first race in 66 over there aparently. nice motor . has a 350 chevy in it.
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 02:42 PM
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Actually the engine could be broken in on the dyno. But if you choose to drive it to do the break in (I see nothing wrong w/that, I have done it since day one), be sure to use engine braking to slow the car after running it up. This helps the process.

Good luck and I hope it performs on the dyno as good as it looks.
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Actually the engine could be broken in on the dyno. But if you choose to drive it to do the break in (I see nothing wrong w/that, I have done it since day one), be sure to use engine braking to slow the car after running it up. This helps the process.

Good luck and I hope it performs on the dyno as good as it looks.
hi cobalt.

i will be trailering it to the dyno as its not road legal yet , and also agee its better to have it broke in a bit on the dyno . i do get worried about the lack of air flow and pressure that the dyno cannot replicate , at 60 mph the air flow and pressure surley will make a differnce compared to the usual fans they use . i am lucky where i have the ecu so we can plug the lambda sensors in and also do a road test and to see whats going on with the air / fuel mixture on the road .

thanks for your help .

whats your thoughts on the running in oil ? would you go with it or change it for a semi synthetic type ?

cheers
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 01:36 PM
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Damn! no new posts!! Congrats to f-bird for his patience on the matter! Good thing 'stang ain't no "hardhead"!! Oh and Keithdyer... I think you nailed it!! Good luck on that beautiful stang dude!! (should have just put 2 blower 750's on and been done with it!!) But then I wouldn't have had the fun of reading all this! One more thing... Holy crap!?!?! that is a GIANT top blower drive gear!!! Guessing the bottom one is relative!! Lets see some more pics!
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 01:57 PM
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You will get lots of turbulent air flow (and inconsistant AFR/jetting) into the carbs until you cut the choke horns off the carbs.
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:19 PM
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yep got that re the choke horns .

re the top pulley . it is larger than norrmal due to the way i have had the bottom pulley specially machined to cover my harmonic balancer ( rattler ) i didnt like the way people bolt a pulley to the front of a balancer then go on to say you have to double key way it. blah blah. no s**t the amount of strain and fource to spin the blower with a pulley stuck to the front of the crank is utter madness to me. so i simply had one specifically machined to fit snug over the balancer . this in turn made the top pulley the size it is to get the psi i am aiming for.

i dont want dp carbs , opinions vary on that side of it. some like dp some like vac secs, dont think its a case of saying this is what you should use . it depends on what you are using it for. street - race - strip etc etc,

i like pat ganagl opinion on blown supercharging for the street , he aint daft .

once i been to the dyno i will post some pics for sure .

back to the last question - whats your thoughts on the oil choice for a dyno run ?
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang 671 View Post
yep got that re the choke horns .

re the top pulley . it is larger than norrmal due to the way i have had the bottom pulley specially machined to cover my harmonic balancer ( rattler ) i didnt like the way people bolt a pulley to the front of a balancer then go on to say you have to double key way it. blah blah. no s**t the amount of strain and fource to spin the blower with a pulley stuck to the front of the crank is utter madness to me. so i simply had one specifically machined to fit snug over the balancer . this in turn made the top pulley the size it is to get the psi i am aiming for.

i dont want dp carbs , opinions vary on that side of it. some like dp some like vac secs, dont think its a case of saying this is what you should use . it depends on what you are using it for. street - race - strip etc etc,

i like pat ganagl opinion on blown supercharging for the street , he aint daft .

once i been to the dyno i will post some pics for sure .

back to the last question - whats your thoughts on the oil choice for a dyno run ?
Use a non synthetic until it's broken in. Then you can use the oil of your choice. I recall you have a flat tappet cam, so use a ZDDPlus-type additive unless the oil already has those additives in it, like the Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple, etc. oils specially blended for flat tappet high performance engines.

Once the engine is broken in you do not need as much additives as you did during the break in process. That's why they sell break in oil and oil to be used AFTER break in. You can use the ZDDPlus-type additive to duplicate these same amounts of additives when using regular motor oil.

This has been written about extensively, if you do a search here or on the net you'll see plenty of info on ppm of additives needed for long term use, etc., so I'll not rehash it all here.
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2012, 01:44 PM
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cheers cobalt . just what i needed to know . will get some ordered up for after the dyno .

some say its worth taking a oil sample and having it sent off to analysis to see what if any other chemicals have got into the oil . too much fuel . water etc

good idea on first dyno run ?
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang 671 View Post
cheers cobalt . just what i needed to know . will get some ordered up for after the dyno .

some say its worth taking a oil sample and having it sent off to analysis to see what if any other chemicals have got into the oil . too much fuel . water etc

good idea on first dyno run ?
I've never done this, but it couldn't hurt. I tend to rely on doing thins as best I can and then leave it in the laps of the gods.

The problem I would have is not knowing how much of any element would be normal vs. abnormal. That info might be supplied by the testing facility or somewhere online. The bearing type/materials and the other things like piston alloy, etc. should be known to see if those elements showed up, but the amounts of these elements in the sample (PPM?) would be the stumbling block for me.

Good luck.
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:17 AM
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I've never done this, but it couldn't hurt. I tend to rely on doing thins as best I can and then leave it in the laps of the gods.

The problem I would have is not knowing how much of any element would be normal vs. abnormal. That info might be supplied by the testing facility or somewhere online. The bearing type/materials and the other things like piston alloy, etc. should be known to see if those elements showed up, but the amounts of these elements in the sample (PPM?) would be the stumbling block for me.

Good luck.
yes good answer , but be confusing by seeing levels of something and then getting answers as to whats the norm !!

will ponder on that one hmmm
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