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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 03:34 PM
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thanks for all of your help guys , i know its nearly there now. so thought i would get some pics up of the car nearly finished so you can see what im trying to complete.


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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 03:35 PM
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Last edited by mustang 671; 05-07-2013 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:38 PM
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not sure if you all will be able to open this video ?

https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hoppe...type=2&theater
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 03:40 PM
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showing start up from warm and drive off.

https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hoppe...type=2&theater
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:03 PM
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video of engine run once warm , and screen video shot of ecu ign chart and paramieters screen for my ecu .

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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2013, 06:48 PM
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The pv's will never open with allways getting a vacuum signal being above the blower the vacuum never drops to open them.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 02:38 AM
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Dont mean to troll. BUT OMG ID TAKE THAT THING RUNNING ON 2 CYLINDERS AND SLIPPING IN EVERY GEAR!

IF YOU EVER NEED A BODY PART (ARM_LEG_KIDNEY_HART_BRAIN_SO-ON - MSG ME ILL MAKE YOU A GOOD DEAL!
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 03:29 PM
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thanks all . ok so seems i need to -

boost ref the pv,s by drilling through to the vaacum channel ( seen a thread explaining how to do this ) and conneting them both to a tee piece and then 1x single hose to below the blower in the inlet manifold to read correct manifold vacum ?

f brid - got that on the idle screw. so mine screw in clockwise which shuts off fuel flow - leaner - and counter clockwise for richer . well i shall screw them in and see if it stalls. so if it doesnt where could fuel be coming from ?? now i have 10.5 pvs would they be opining ? they are new and the reading below the carbs was 15-16
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2013, 05:51 PM
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Hi all , just finished @ my mates cnc machine shop , as my metering blocks already have the vacuumn tube on them I choose to epoxy resin the original vacuumn feed hole by the pv ( above the check ball ) and then cnc machined a channel in the carb body to join the reverse L shape withinn the primary metering block - this then sends a vacuumn signal to the orginal area , so will fit carbs tomorrow and join both carbs together with a tee piece and then tee into my rear take off on my inlet manifold below the blower ,

Couldn't believe who easy it was , if your reading this and thinking off boost ref the pv and also have the vacuumn take off on the primary metering block , just do this mod rather than drilling the base plate as it looks more tricky , and I could see it being more labour intensive , you don't need a cnc machine , a steady hand and a drimmel would work ,

Thanks for the pv advise guys , off I go on another weekend of trying ,
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2013, 03:45 PM
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hi all . thanks for the info f bird . will get some measuring done next weekend on the carbs and post . yes I did also block the vacuum hole (in the base of the carb that leads to pv chamber within the carb body.)

ok so the car passed the mot and I went for a slow drive . all seemed well !! I have a guy who has a engine dyno but not a rolling road dyno which is a pain . so the only guys near me are 1 half hr away who have a rolling dyno, so I have had this guy ( who has the engine dyno ) to look over the engine while im running around slowly, and again all seemed ok .

I then read the plugs and 5 and 6 are oiled up !!! not good ah ?? so I have done a compression test and its down on those 2x cylinders numbers 5 and 6 . I have spoken with my friend ( who is a engine builder ) and he said as the engine has been standing for 5 odd years the head gasket or inlet manifold gasket could of failed ?? so I have took the head off and the gasket seems ok . but I have water in the oil . not good !!

so as I haven't loaded up the engine with any boost etc or driven any miles . approx. 4 miles . I have decided to pull the engine ( as it will only take 4 hrs now as one side is torn down anyway ) and do a couple of bits of machining that have always got on my nervs . and also polish the charger now the car is legal on the road

so some questions I need answering if anyone can help ? ( plugs read fine before this. nice and light brown )

inlet manifold is black and inlet ports to the heads ? run my finger on it and seems carboned up . more to the back pair. I am worried that I have the roller rockers adjusted wrong ?? this guy I know states you guys are lazy and shouldn't use hydraulic lifters with adjustable roller rockers ? however I was advised to use this set up . when they were adjusted we ordered ( first ) a adjustable push rod then ordered the nearest length to that ! what I didn't do was check again once oil pressure was achieved . so he states ( you lot are lazy ) and I should buy a set of solid lifters ?? what's your views ?? I don't want to have to buy some if I can use what I have

the rear of the inlet manifold plate ( which is what the blower sits on ) shows small signs of leaking , so I am going to get the inlet manifold plate grooved and o ringed , but will check for machined flat face on both manifold and bottom face of blower .

blower vanes look fine . no scores etc. run smooth .
so I am glad I am doing this as I can get my engine dyned before I fit it back which is ideal for me.
i am also going to check bearings and also kb pistons and rings. now that its been running for a bit .

my thoughts are as its only going to cost me a gasket set that I would check everything after I have ran the engine for a short while and also as there was trace of water in oil and previous I suspected some bore wash .

what else should I look for ? piston ring gap at different stages down the bore ? piston to bore gap ? would you recommend on setting up hydraulic lifters with adj roller rockers ?

sorry for all the questions . going to be doing all of this over the next 2 weeks then engine off to engine dyno .
also what can you recommended for setting up roller rockes and valves , lash , etc.

I have stainless steel crowler adj roller rockers
hardened push rods
edlebrock victor jr heads
hydraulic lifters
crane supercharger grind cam for street use .

we will also do test runs with and without water methanol injection to compare advantages and disadvantages.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2013, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You need to install a small vacuum check ( inline one way vacuum check valve)
in line on the vac line from intake manifold to the carb. This one way check valve prevents manifold boost ,,, or a back fire in the intake manifold from acting on the power valves.
These small simple vacuum line one way check valves are very common on emissions control vacuum lines like the EGR system old Fords of the 1970's era. Like a 1979 Granada.
Like a (american) Ford Granada or Monarch. Junk yard or new replacement.
Old chryslers had these also. Anything with a carb/smog controls and vacuum controled A/C had these.

They keep the now boost referenced power valve from busting from a backfire or manifold boost.
great advise . didn't think of that . my carbs did have the backfire protection check ball in the base . so now I know they are the more modern type
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2013, 03:21 PM
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hi all. just about to order up my headgaskets . what's a good on nowadays ? hi had "felpro" on it before. I have looked on here and "mls" is mentioned ??
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2013, 12:31 PM
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hi all . been a while what with holiday etc. well I had a water problem between the head and inlet manifold and worked out where it was coming in. but that is the least of my worries. I have been a silly billy . as my engine stood for a while inbetween re-build and finishing the shell. I should of took out the cam and made sure it had break in lube etc. so when we went to start we primed etc and did all we could and thought we broke the cam in correctly- 20 mins 2000rpm. but unfortunately It didn't. so cam and lifters are trashed. apparently it happens a lot ???

so I have took the motor out. its all been cleaned stripped. honed and oil ways steam jetted etc. crank re grind all new bearings. luckily rings and pistons ok under magnifine glass. and bores ok after rehone .

so I need advise on what cam and what lifters to go for.

f bird said I was choking this poor motor

I had a crane cam 444551 before with hyd lifters which was a flat tappet cam

I have been on to comp cams and they have recommended either roller or flat tappet cam with grind numbers of

224 lift of 555
236 lift of 570 roller cam

224 lift of 510
236 lift of 523 flat tappet

both with lobe separation of 114

any advise.??

I don't want some nasty lumpy unusable motor. this is a street car. but don't mind a bit lumpy idle just not to mad

9-11 psi boost. 3.5 rear gears. 2400 torque converter. car weighs around 1800kg . rear 325 tyres

they say to get a spider holder retro kit for the roller cam and that the roller cam is better on ramp up !

cheers all
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2013, 10:25 PM
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Whassup 671
Been a while since I checked in and holy nightmare, I'm sorry to hear about all the issues you had and now the motor
In any case the Stang looks INSANE and will be so BAD ***** when your done that it's all worth it. If you knew then what you know now it may have been cheaper to buy a Jegs 408 cu in 351W, they have some killer deals on some real nice built 351W's and all the parts are matched for optimal performance.

Hey BTW I got rid of my Supercharged 351W Lightning and replaced it with a pretty insane 418 cu in 351W Ranger. Took it to Atco 2 weeks ago and ran 10.61 & 10.66 first time out in 90 degree heat It's pretty insane, 13.2:1 Compression, Canfield Heads, Solid Roller Set Up with Stud Girdles, Reverse Manual C4 with a Transbrake, 5500 RPM Stall, 4.88 Gears, goes over the traps at just about 8000 RPM @126 MPH.

Another words IT'S A LOT OF FUN

Hope things work out for you Bro, the season is upon us. Had the Sierra at a Car Show tonight and the outcome was insane.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Flat tappet street mechanical sweet street blower can Crane F278-2 crane#363841 (Uses the 302W fireing order)

Street mechanical roller cam )SR "Street Roller" Crane SR-238/350-2S-12 crane#368511 (Uses Fords 302W firing order.
Ask Crane Cams tech about grinding this profile on a 2 piece billet roller camshaft core with the pressed on cast iron cam gear
(Street Roller w cast gear) (I believe all you have to do is request it when ordering)
Contact Crane Cams directly if you need technical assistance.

These are both sweet street blower cams that will make real good power in your huffed 351w.

(The cams you are looking at are essentually the same as your old Crane hyd cam. Which is/was ok, but...
Both these Crane street blower cams are more powerfull, especially with the blower)

It is very easy to setup and maintain the valve lash of both these street mechanicals
I recommend you set it "cold" about .004" tigher than the "hot lash" spec.

Superior performance and power compared to a HYD cam.

Crane Cams | Automotive Home Page

Chase Knight or one of his Crane Tech Elves will get you all set up.

Flat tappet cams: This time put some Crane or isky moly paste on the cam lobes.
I use this stuff in my engine oil too.
Molyslip Canada Inc. :: Molybdenum Lubricants, Performance Lubricants, Copaslip Anti-Seize, EP2 Grease, Wear Reducing Lubricants, Oil Additive Moly Slip E Does more than just help prevent new cam lobe lifter scuffing.
thanks f bird.

so is it a flat tappet cam or a roller cam ? the comp cam guy said the roller provides more power ? I haven't a clue on the cam side of things. will get in touch with crane . I heard they went bust ??? also I don't want some lumpy thing. hope its not too wild and a pig to drive until higher revs ?

cheers
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