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Old 03-21-2010, 09:15 PM
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Procedure to remove rear axles?

I have a 1973 Javelin with a 232 6 cylinder, 3 speed manual transmission, and manual brakes. Recently the rear axle has developed a slight roar, and when I spin the axles by hand they feel a little ruff. I will need to pull the rear axles and replace the bearings and seals. I have a press to remove and install the bearings.

Can anyone walk me thru this procedure, tell me about any special tools required, and any problems I might encounter? Thanks,

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Old 04-08-2010, 12:59 PM
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This is a hard job,(getting them apart) Is your press about 20 ton?
Do you have a hub puller?
Hub pullers, I used the first two.
AMC web site/about doing the bearings.
New bolt-in forged axles.
Good luck,
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:51 PM
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The "tool" I used many times in the junk yard was a 6' length of chain. Double it, w/a knot towards the middle, the two loose ends get lug nutted to the axle's lugs, then the chain is 'whipped' (kind of like cracking a whip, underhanded) to act as a slide hammer to unseat the bearings.

Worked better for me than using an old brake hub, reversed, etc.
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:03 PM
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Removing the axles-shafts on an AMC is actually pretty easy. What people are talking about is the fact that the axles are two-piece with the hub being pressed on the axles-shaft.

The shafts aren't held in with C-clips or anything. To remove the shafts as one unit (not take the hub off the axles), pull the drum, then remove the four bolts that hold the backing plate to the axle tube (you can pull the brake guts if you want, but I don't think you HAVE to). Then, turn the drum around and put it back on the wheel studs being held on loosely by a few of the lug nuts. Use the drum as a slide hammer and pull the axles right out. Installation is pretty much just pushing them back in.

A lot of people have issues with AMC axles "breaking". This isn't actually true. What happens is the hub spins on the splines of the axle shaft. Some people think this is because the hub loosens with age and needs to be retightened. Other people replace the two-piece axles with after-market one-piece axles such as Moser axles. This is usually done in high performance applications. For your car, since you have the 6 cylinder, I'd just re-torque the axle nuts and you should be OK. With the car on the ground, take out the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. Re-torque the axle nut to 250 lbs/ft and install a new cotter pin. You should be good-to-go.

I hope this helps!
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:26 PM
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Oh, one more thing. The axle you ahve in your 6 cylinder Javelin is an AMC Model 15 which isn't the strongest thing in the world. If you plan pretty much any type of high-performance upgrades or any "spirited driving", I'd think about upgrading the axle to at least an AMC Model 20 that came in V8 powered Javelins. The 71-74 V8 rear axles aren't hard to find and are pretty cheap. If you were close to MA, I'd sell you one I have pretty cheap.
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