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Old 05-03-2005, 10:59 PM
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Procharger Newbie Need Guidance

Currently in the process of installing an F1 Procharger in my 69 Camaro. I'll be running a 357Ci chevy. My goal is about 800hp.. My whole motor is built to the tilt, forged everything. Canfield 200cc alum. heads , Howards custom cam; 112 center lobe, 240-250 duration, 580-600 lift. My compression ratio is about 7.9.1 using those cometic head gaskets, which are crazy expensive by the way! I also just received my custom 950 blow thru carburetor from "The Carb Shop" My fuel system includes Aeromotive electric A1000 fuel pump and Aeromotive bypass regulator, 1/2 fuel line, 3/8 return. Im hoping to inter-cool it soon but $1500 isn't chump change! My pulley is 15lb 12rib, Im trying to find out from other experienced people how much boost can be run w/ 93 octane fuel.. Representatives at ATI tell me 15 lbs non-intercooled will be fine, but in my opinion they don't really sound like they put a whole lot of thought into what they say. Im looking into a msd btm, but i hear retarding ur timing is pointless because it kills your motors ability to make power?? Maybe i should just run less boost w/o a proportional retard system?? The car is 67 Camaro. Any tips or advice w/ the install would be great. Also i was wondering what kind of safety gages i should have , like knock sensor, air - fuel ??

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Old 05-04-2005, 12:47 AM
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I'd say you are marginal. We had a Mod Mustang in the shop with a Procharger that ran 10:1 with 15 lbs that blew up and needed a complete doe to it. We set the compression at 7.5 on the rebuild and with A LOT of computer tuning of the EFI it runs very strong on 93 and puts about 650 to the wheels.

If you have a solid flat tappet or solid roller trying to retrofit a knock sensor won't do you any good, it will pick up the lifter noise as knock and retard the timing.

Your best defense would be to get a wide band O2 with gauge and datalogging function. They are around $500 bucks.

Of course you remember as boost goes up you also want to retard the timing. Your not going to be running 38 degrees at 15 lbs, you'll end up in the mid upper 20's.

The Procharger boys must hand out on some website somewhere. It would be worth it to find out and talk with some folks with similar setups. The MSD tech folks are also always worth talking to about your needs.
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:50 PM
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The timing retard has nothing to do with limiting power. The fact is that with the added cylinder pressure and fuel flame travel is faster and more efficient so you need less timing. You will also need more spark energy and a tighter plug gap. I am working on upgrading to an MSD-7AL-2 this weekend on my truck because is loosing fire under load.

WBO2 is a must IMO with boosted engines. AFR becomes VERY important in a engine like that.

Chris
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:53 PM
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Just a note ,

I run 34/35deg whit full boost whitout any retard..
I have buy the MSD retard unit but dont think i will need it at all..

91oct / 8.5.1 (Intercooled) no ping at all observed as now up to 20psi, i'm in way of tuning/test for a week or two, still have a miss at WOT i think that came from my carb.. Some tuning required..

Turbos10 : What conclusion tell you need a Msd7al ? Msd6 should be plenty enough no ?

The best & valable air/fuel ratio look this one , very very very usefull in tuningClick here ;
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:31 PM
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I am going with the 7AL because I got it, a Mallory High Fire IVA, and High Fire V for $70 at a swap meet. I am going to try the MSD first, and if it does not work, move to the next one. All the boxes are used, but all are suppose to work.

BTW, I would be careful with that much boost and timing. It is entirely possible to have detonation you can not hear without electronic monitoring. Another thing to consider is that even if you are not detonating, you can cause cylinder pressure spikes too early in the combustion cycle and loose power. The widely accepted standdard is 1 degree of retard with every lb of boost up to about 10 or 12 degrees total retard.

Chris
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboS10
I am going with the 7AL because I got it, a Mallory High Fire IVA, and High Fire V for $70 at a swap meet. I am going to try the MSD first, and if it does not work, move to the next one. All the boxes are used, but all are suppose to work.

BTW, I would be careful with that much boost and timing. It is entirely possible to have detonation you can not hear without electronic monitoring. Another thing to consider is that even if you are not detonating, you can cause cylinder pressure spikes too early in the combustion cycle and loose power. The widely accepted standdard is 1 degree of retard with every lb of boost up to about 10 or 12 degrees total retard.

Chris
I run an AEM A/F ratio & pyrometer, my pyro dont go over 1400-1500, btw i dont have any power lost, in fact i have too mutch lol Whats other way to see if i have detonation ? I dont bother buying an other unit if needed, but i dont think i have any knock at all, i got huge power all the way and the engine run very strait & very powerfull, still doing some test & tunning for the next few days.

Ps: is the 7al good on the street ? they tell race only ? This unit will not overheat or have other constraint for the street ? Let me know if 7al make any change for you..
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Old 05-09-2005, 01:35 PM
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My brother has just bought an F1 Procharger and is doing the research on what he needs to do to make it work, He found this forum useful, Although its called turbomustangs it covers boosting all makes of cars.
http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/
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