"Production" blocking, how far do I go? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 10:36 AM
BIGSKY's Avatar
See project in Photo Album
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 203
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
"Production" blocking, how far do I go?

I run a little shop out of my garage doing dent repair and paint work. I do small stuff to completes. I have concentrated on this work since completing my 67 C10 restoration about four years ago. Prior to that project I had not painted, but between this forum and help from a few local guys I got my truck done and am quite happy with the result. Ok, enough backstory...

I am currently doing a complete on 96 Toyoto T-100. The owner is in love with this 200k mile pickup and is willing to drop three grand on the paint job. I have the box repaired and blocked twice. This is where I come to my question. I learned here to block and prime three times 180/220/320, then wet sand, seal and paint/clear. I am not sure this particular job warrants the three times prime and block process due to my loosely quoted bid. So even though I have to fix five small dents in nearly every panel, do I really need to do all this blocking? I realize there is only one way to get the pickup straight but we are not talking about a six thousand dollar paint job here.

So on the box which is currently blocked out in 220, can I lay down more build primer, DA with 320 then wet sand / seal / paint, or am I screwing up all the work I did in the 180/220 blocking? Also on the cab and front clip which has fewer dents, I want to DA the fairly good condition existing paint, epoxy prime it, then build primer, then wet sand, seal and paint. I guess I am trying to do the right job for the right vehicle here, its not a trailer queen hot rod, and I quoted three grand for the job. I am looking for opinions on my repair and paint process and also my quoted pricing. Am I doing too much? Am I trying to cut corners that I shouldn't?

Fwiw, I am using mostly midgrade primer and paint, although I have considered using a good clear vs. Omni for example...

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 12:34 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,226
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 38
Thanked 126 Times in 122 Posts
main objective of blocking is to get the panels straight..i learned to block with 100-120 grit until all is good and then shoot a coat of primer surfacer and block that with 400 and then base..works for me..try and experiment a bit until you can block a panel with the minimum amount of time and then do the final primer before basing..

Sam

some of the production guys may chime in..
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 02:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
you don't block a certain number of times, you block until it is straight.

you don't want to DA over what you have already blocked. what are you blocking with?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 02:58 PM
BIGSKY's Avatar
See project in Photo Album
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 203
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am using an eight inch block and an about a 14" block. The panels after the second blocking are straight to my satisfaction. I have typically continued blocking in finer grits to remove the sand scratches from the previous blocking. I have thought about laying enough build primer to say cover 180, but wondered if piling that much product on was a good idea.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: In The Garage
Posts: 334
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
A guide coat is your friend when blocking. When the guide
coat shows the panel is straight, it's time to go on to the
next step no matter how many primer coats.
The lesser coats the better I say...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: California
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
oooh...guide coat. yeah.. gotta have a guidecoat.

I'm no painter, but I like to play one on the internet.

I like doing a guide coat with a pair of 15" long board sanders one is stiff, the other flexible.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:54 AM
BIGSKY's Avatar
See project in Photo Album
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 203
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I am guide coating each time.

So I am concerned about the amount of build primer I can lay down at one time. Say I get a panel blocked out in 180 and I am happy with it. Can I then lay down enough new primer to completely cover the 180 sand scratches? I think that is what you are telling me OneMoreTime.

Fwiw I have a dedicated primer gun with a 1.8 tip and I shoot my build primer unreduced.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2011, 10:21 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,226
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 38
Thanked 126 Times in 122 Posts
Exactly..work on gun adjustment so you lay the material down wet and slick to minimize sanding..i use a 1.4 and regular build primer at this point and save the high build for when I feel I need it..Good idea to let in set overnite before basing to allow for any shrinkage and then go with the 400 and then base it..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:53 PM
BIGSKY's Avatar
See project in Photo Album
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 203
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great, this sounds like way less messing around and less sand paper too. Thanks for the tips!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Strange thing happening with my clear "solvent pop"/"fish eyes" ? myfamiliacc Body - Exterior 35 02-16-2013 07:18 PM
The new worlds fastest "production" car Blazin72 Hotrodders' Lounge 4 01-25-2008 06:44 PM
Buffing Out Single Stage Paint "From a Production Shop Perspective" x711 Body - Exterior 18 12-28-2006 10:27 PM
wiki pages: "How to rebuild an engine", "Window removal/installation" Jon Hotrodders' Lounge 0 07-11-2006 12:44 PM
Hey croz look """"IMPORTS SUCK""" 78 monte Hotrodders' Lounge 14 08-30-2002 01:13 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.