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Old 11-01-2012, 04:02 PM
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products needed for rebuilt

hey guys im just wondering if you can help i need a list of what products i will need to rebuild my 400 and im trying to save every penny i can this is what i have so far

assembly lube
moly lube
anti seize
gasket maker

my question is do i realy need to spend the extra money on plumbers tape, gasket sealer? cant i use gasket maker?? is moly lube a must for the cam as well? i just figure its a good idea for break in even tho iv heard assembly lube will work fine as long as its not sitting long

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Old 11-01-2012, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistagoodbadguy View Post
hey guys im just wondering if you can help i need a list of what products i will need to rebuild my 400 and im trying to save every penny i can this is what i have so far

assembly lube
moly lube
anti seize
gasket maker

my question is do i realy need to spend the extra money on plumbers tape, gasket sealer? cant i use gasket maker?? is moly lube a must for the cam as well? i just figure its a good idea for break in even tho iv heard assembly lube will work fine as long as its not sitting long
I prefer Teflon plumbers joint paste to Teflon tape, this is used to seal those bolts that enter into coolant jackets or into the oily interior. It provides both a thread sealant and lubricant the latter being about the same lubricity as engine oil which the OEMs use to compute their bolt torques. Different lubricants on the threads such as moly paste or a lack of cleanliness or dry threads will produce different amounts of clamping force in the fastener for the amount of torque indicated on the wrench. The moly past will stretch the fastener too much for the indicated torque while dirty, damaged, or dry threads will not produce enough stretch in the fastener for the indicated torque, the former condition risks breaking the fastener, the latter will leave it loose though it will appear tight.

For cam lube I'd use what the cam manufacturer recommends and follow thier directions to the letter, wiping out a cam is very easy to do if you don't follow along with great care.

Assembly lube is for bearing surfaces other than the cam lobes unless it's a roller cam but even then I'd go with the cam makers recommendations.

If the part surfaces are remachined there should be no need for gasket maker other than hi-temp silicon rubber and maybe some non-hardening Permatex; this stuff being useful in the corners where of the intake meets the heads and china wall, and where the oil pan mates with the rear main cap and front timing cover.

Anti-seize is useful where steel bolts go into aluminum as a corrosion preventative. Bolts into aluminum should not be cad plated or galvanized, either bare steel or stainless steel. Cad and galvanize likes to trade electrons with steel and aluminum which corrodes these materials together. Aluminum parts also need hardened washers between the bolt head and the aluminum part to keep from squishing the softer aluminum when tightening the fastener.

Bogie
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:02 PM
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dont forget locktite
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:31 PM
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yup i got lock tight you onlyu use that one the cam bolts and the flex plat blots am i correct and i read the info for my cam and it says nothing other then to put in a additive and reg oil and not synthetic why would you not use synthetic? also what viscosity oil should i use for building it the reg 10w30?
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:42 PM
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better put loctite on the rod bolts too. what colour did you buy? oil selection depends on application,clearances and what the engine is used for. volume of oil is important too. some of us use bigger oil pans
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:51 PM
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Oh ok I noticed they say just oil on the rod bolts and I believe its blue or maybe red the car is just for street use and using a high vol oil pump everything else stock other then a stage 2 cam
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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dont use any red if you ever intend to take it apart
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:03 PM
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Ya that's what I thought what would u reccomend blue or what
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
dont use any red if you ever intend to take it apart
I use red with no problem at disassemble, I think purple is the "you're screwed" color if you have to take it apart, or maybe its green. Red is the most common and easiest to find.

I also would add a tube of black oil resistant RTV to that list- that stuff can be used on almost any gasket (not head or exhaust gaskets) and greatly helps to prevent leaks.


Teflon tape can be bought for about 75 cents a spool, anyone can afford that, the paste is only a few bucks too.
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:06 PM
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Ok great rtv was what I was gonna get for gasket maker can I use it instead of sealer... That's what iv always done and I thought that paste was more expensive iv heard to not use the tape because bits can get into the oil
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:12 PM
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Ok guys I ve bought amessemly lube and gasket makers I have heard talked to some people ans they all say there is no need to put thread locker on rod bolts but what I plan on buying is....

Moly lube for the cam... Is all moly lube basicly the game and normal graese won't work correct
Thread locker blue... Purple is the weakest and I would use this on my cam flex plate bolts
Plumbing dope... Is this just used for the oil and frost plugs... Wouldent gasket maker work fine for the bolts that go into the head gaskets
Anti seize... Basiclly for the exhauset manaford right

Another thing I have always been tought that u never use the exhaust manafold gaskets... Is this correct is there any advantages to using them or not??
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