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Old 11-23-2011, 04:33 PM
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Project Car

A friend and I want to start a project car. We are seniors in high school and both have part time jobs. We can afford around 5grand and we want something fast. What would be a good start?

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Old 11-23-2011, 04:49 PM
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How much do you know? What is your experience automotive wise?
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
How much do you know? What is your experience automotive wise?
i know a lil bit but i have the resources. My dad has been a mechanic his whole life and built a few muscle cars but i want to try and do this on my own with little or no help from him.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:36 PM
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Huh???????????

Wait a minute !!! Youve got a Dad thats built some hot rods,and you want to do it,(without knowledge or experience) youre making a BIG,BIG mistake,Thats what Dads are for...TO TEACH you the right way to do it....LET HIM BE THE TEACHER,,,,you wont be sorry...
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:22 PM
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1) What are your gpa's; i wouldn't let any kid mess with a car unless that was in order first. Then, the sports (unless the kid really isn't that type) and the social aspects. Yes, I AM your father.

2) What do you like? Does it have to be an import---like everyone else, or do you not care?


3) How fast is fast?
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:36 PM
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Start here

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffysit455
A friend and I want to start a project car. We are seniors in high school and both have part time jobs. We can afford around 5grand and we want something fast. What would be a good start?
1.Go to the ebook section on this site and read the book from cover to cover.
[/URL] http://www.hotrodders.com/scratch-built/Cover (more than once)

2.Listen to the guys who have a wealth of experience and ask for their advice.

3. Ask your dad for his input/help!

4. Ask yourself if 5 grand will buy you a decent ride or just become a money pit!

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Old 11-25-2011, 04:42 PM
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$5000 will build a very fast car. Use the biggest (nothing smaller than a 440) stock motor you can put your hands on and the lightest car/truck (under 2500 lbs) you can put your hands on. Don't dismiss some oddball motors, such as a 440 Mopar from the late 60's. These motors were high compression and required leaded fuel. CAUTION: Do not use any motor that is later than 1970. Cut the heads for hard exhaust valve seats, set the squish tight @0.045" to 0.055" and run enough cam to bleed off some of the high compression so that the motor will run on unleaded pump gas. Here's a chart to help you get in the ballpark....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

Some other motors you could use would be a 454 big block Chevy, 460 Ford, 455 Olds, 455 Pontiac, 472 Cadillac, 500 Cadillac. Buy the entire car with the motor in it and with the trans bolted on the back of it. The Mopar will have a 727 3-spd, the GM products will have a TH400 3-speed and the Ford will have a C6 3-speed. You will save yourself many trips to the auto parts store if you buy the whole car. Use everything off it that you can, EVERYTHING. Use the radiator and entire cooling system, fuel tank and the entire fuel delivery system, trans linkage, etc. Of course, you will want to replace any components that are missing or broken. You may even be interested in using the rear end out of your engine donor car. It was designed at the factory to work with the combination of the motor and trans/converter and will likely be in the high 2.00's or low 3.00's final drive ratio. If it's too wide, learn how to narrow it yourself and square the bearing housings to to be in register with the rest of the rearend components. Once you know how to do it, the name on the casting will not be a hindrance to your narrowing it, you just need a different set of tools and standards to do different housings. Think of the money you could make narrowing housings for other guys once you know how it's done. Also, bone up on rear suspension systems. A ladder bar works well and is cheap and easy to set up, but will give you nightmares on a sloped surface (like starting up a driveway that rises above the street level). A four-bar will be a better way to go if you have to navigate driveways and such, but will require much more expertise, will be more costly and much more difficult to tune to your driving patterns. There will be over 90 different positions for the bars and only 2 or 3 of them will work right to plant the car.

Mount the fuel tank and battery in the extreme right rear area of the vehicle to place the maximum of weight on the right rear tire.

If you plan to front clip the vehicle using the donor car's front clip, understand that the front (and rear) track will be wider than the little car/truck that you are using for the recipient vehicle. You can either live with it or you could fashion fender flares from aluminum or fiberglas to cover the tires. The reason you might want to use the donor clip is so that you'd have the core support to mount the radiator in the proper position relative to the water pump, the motor mounts and the OEM steering and suspension systems. DO NOT NARROW A FRONT CLIP. IT CHANGES THE SUSPENSION GEOMETRY AND THE CAR WILL BE HARDER TO DRIVE AND/OR WILL BREAK PARTS. Leave everything stock that you can. It'll be cheaper and work better.

You might want to do a little reading to bone up on the procedures needed to carry off a successful build, such as this engine swap primer....
http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Swappin...2264160&sr=1-1
Buy used to save a few sheckels.

For runnin' on the street, build the motor to operate from 1500 to 5500 and use a converter that will stall at 2000-2500 regardless of the rear gear or static compression ratio. If the stock static compression ratio is higher than 9.8:1, you may have to use a little more cam and extend the operating range a little, or you may want to change pistons to drop the static compression ratio. Cast pistons will work fine and a flat tappet cam will work also if you take the precautions you're supposed to. See this....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

Do everything yourself that you possibly can. Labor charges will eat you up if you let them.

Maybe the coolest swap I ever saw was a 460 Ford in an MGB roadster. Done properly, a car like that will run 10's right off the street. Choice of differential, springs, shocks, suspension system, wheels and tires will tell the tale.

Last edited by techinspector1; 11-25-2011 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:50 AM
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For a couple of beginners on a limited budget, I'm thinking something GM from the '80s--either a G-body (Monte Carlo, Cutlass Supreme, etc.) or a third-generation F-body (1982-91 Camaro or Firebird). They're cheap and plentiful, and they are easy cars to learn on. Either a well-built small-block Chevy or a mild big block would give you plenty of power to work with, and you could learn how to tune properly as you go.

Once you've finished that build, you'll be ready for a more challenging car.
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